Clifford Automotive

you know my girlfriends step dad worked on her car, and it started doing that. driving and the temp went from hot air to cold air...the guage would rise up and down...her problem was the antifreeze mixture was waaay off..just a thought...i flushed her system and did a 60/40 mix and its awesome heat that i noticed today...strong and solid...

seems like a good price to me... to be sure just double check there screen...its that easy

wow

you should scuff the block with a 3m prep pad...and the paint will stick fine...as for automotive paint on the block thats a bad idea

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> Did you ever think that he got a fix it ticket from the police and he had to go lighter?? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> yeah but screw the police... it was a joke anyway sorry i forgot a smiley hahaha

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I used to work at Ziebart back in '95 or so. There was a guy there, I can't remember his name, but I thought it was Matt or something to that. The one I worked at was in Dublin. He tinted the windows in my Toyota when I worked there for $20 ! Anyways. I've seen his face in a couple of the "Dollar Stretcher" coupon books. I haven't seen an ad from him him in a while. Are we talking about the same person? Back then he drove a red Neon with some 17" rims I think on it. He did an excellent job on my car BTW. I can't seem to find him though. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Thats my boy thats who I'm talking about he is at the Wilson store now...he is the best hands down

the norm that i have seen is about 200, but you need to have the install kit with it or it will be higher

Read my profile, get a hold of me by email...

"NOT TRYIN TO BE SMART" But I used to tint windows at Ziebart back in the day on Wilson Rd. The guy there is rank the #1 Tinter in Ohio,he is the besthis name is matt... Again not trying to start a flame here or anything... I just think its odd you say someone is the best... but you had the same car done twice?

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>So, if I turn the key to the on position, and I can't hear the fuel pump, that must automatically mean that the pump is bad right? Nope. Let's see, crank angle sensor, air flow meter, engine temp. sensor, ignition switch, throttle sensor, and battery voltage signal. Yep that's six, if the ECU decides that it doesn't like the info that it is getting from any one of these, it may decide not to power the pump <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Just as I read agian... its sucks that your car need to be running to get usable signals from these...(at initial on position) all read zero thats 0...this means your cars computer does not use any signals to prime or not prime your pump... Your "Fuel Pump Relay" primes the pump at initial power...then runs the pump at start up... Who ever said the fuel pump shuts off when the pedal is floored...think about that one

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> Uh, the pump doesn't always run with the key in the on position. Like I said, DEPENDING ON THE CAR, the ECU is very specific as to when it actually tells the pump to run. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Your right but every car "primes" the pump at the first turn to the on position... If you put the key in and turn it to "on" and dont here the pump prime then its the pump...If you want something more solid if your car is not starting and your doing all this cranking...do you smell gas...if you dont smell gas after cranking it a few times its pretty obviuos what the problem is Everyone seems to be trying to give you all these "educated" answers that wont do you a whole lot but confuse you... If you need help get a hold of me and I could possible come to you if you need more assistance... Kevin

hmmmm

yeah?? so is this new news or old news

liquid wont round off a bolt, butt using the wrong socket will

whoooooaaaaaa sorry I forgot the little face, and a jk...but it looks like all you guys think cutting springs makes your car ride like shit, well thats not true, i got a buddy that cut is springs on his mustang..i would bet that it could out handle a lot of the cats here, not starting a flame, but it is one hell of a ride, it doesnt bounce a lot it feel like a noramlly lowered ride, of and just to add about the shcok comment, when you drop a car its not always necessary to put new shocks on...

yeah i love this stuff, i dont check this board too much, because i am rarely around to do so, so sorry it takes so long for me to get back with you, no it dosnt hurt anything, its a penitrant and a lubericant

dude im sorry i dont check back to all the post i make, i go grab you a can and hook you up, i will get it tonight if a can (friday now) and maybe we can hook up, you can tell everyone how you feel about it...let me see what i can do

hey soory so late, no you cant get it anywhere, i have cans and cans of it from where i used to work and i can still get it from a buddy of mine, pb blaster is my second choice

dude shocks dont make a differnece on dropped cars

you probably wont have any problems, and believe it or not road salt isnt what causes rust, more rust is cause in summer months than in winter

zep 45 is the shit its industrial penetraint for heavy machinary, it take about 10 seconds to break a bolt or nut loose with this stuff...

i hope you dont plan on driving hte car everyday...

id say go ahead and let someone else that knows what there doing do it, its pretty easy but you have to have everything exactly in spec with gears...if you dont you wont have a rearend..

dont listen to turbo...no it wont hurt anything