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coltboostin

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Posts posted by coltboostin

  1. Not to jack this thread but since you mentioned it I was always curiosity as to what the hold up would be for someone anywhere to be on a dyno (not street because internet) for you to remote into their computer from wherever you are at and tune based off the files ?

     

    Nothing really. I've done it on a few occasions- the problem in doing this with DSMs is the car/owner/build and limited data to troubleshoot. Most of the cars I tune need things fixed/corrected before we never start. I'd say 4 out of 5 cars need something FIXED that I would never see in a datalog- IE boost controller hoked up wrong, boost leak, wastegate not connected....these are all issues I saw with cars I tuned at my last dyno day. I will NOT remote tune unless I know the car and know its right under the hood.

     

    .

     

    Another guy that is really good around DSM's is Dave Katz, but he is all the way in VA. He comes to Houston once a year to tune cars for TX2K but didn't make it through DFW this year.

     

    David Katz is a great tuner- very professional. FI you put out a message on FB/local forums about the possibility you may be surprised with the response you get!

     

    I'm really curious what Geeto thinks about this car and the impact it has on the world and political landscape.

     

    :p;)

  2. I wish you were local to me so I could pay you to dyno tune my ish. I don't really trust anyone around here. I'm on a DSM82 right now (35R with an FP billet compressor wheel in a bolt on turbine housing), just street "tuning" and hoping I don't blow my ish up.

     

    Get at least 4+ people together, find me a dyno, and I will fly down. Not joking! done it twice now. Dallas would be easy since I have fam I would want to visit while I am there.

     

    Difficulty is typically finding a dyno willing to rent per hour/day cheap enough to make it work price wise for everyone.

     

    Is there a Dallas DSM club or similar down there?

  3. But If what you are saying is indeed correct, then you agree with my position that this is not 100% a bad idea for all people in all situations and that there are people for whom this product makes financial sense. Right?

     

    Yes. Not dissimilar to an interest only mortgage on a property you intend to flip. However, it is very difficult to look at a car as NOT a depreciating asset. Sure, you can get lucky with a, for example, 2006 Ford GT, that does appreciate over time. But that is just luck. 98% of these purchases people are making are not focused on profit, but are focused on "purchasing" a product which they otherwise may not be able to afford. That's the issue

  4. I know what DSMlink is, ha ha.

     

    Are you going off power gains and plugs? I know the stock knock sensor can be pretty much worthless to tune off of with ethanol...

     

    Ha! Just help for people that dont know. ;)

     

    No just going off my experience and dyno feedback. The knock sensor is already bad so its literally no help. AFR is just case by case. Some set ups like to be richer than others- hard to explain just you can tell by how the car runs/reacts to fuel. *peak* Timing is easy-once it stops making more power back off a few notches. ;) Set up like this my goal is to keep peak torque as low as I can get it to keep the motor alive. On paper, a hard hitting 500hp 35r set up is harder on the rods than this one making 300 more HP

     

    I want to see this thing hurt some feelings.

     

    Hope to be at CR track day again this year. Mexico action will be there, but limited

    Saw this on the Sloppy Mechanics page, looks awesome!

     

    Thanks!

     

    Gonna start calling JP "Clutch Nixon". How you are still alive is beyond my comprehension. Still, the stuff you turn out is impressive, to say the least.

     

     

    Im not as much of a wild boy as I used to be. But I will say the post-dyno test runs where a party. :dumb:

  5. no actually you. That was the point of your original "LOL" and "america is so accepting of debt". You don't see the potential for this debt to make you money.

    Your original statement presumed that debt can't make you money and if it was this wasn't it. I stand by my comments. don't back pedal now because you don't want to read it.

     

    No, you indeed just misread or misinterpreted my post. It seems all of CR realizes this, besides you. Im well aware of the power or correctly leveraged debt. Most small (and large businesses) businesses would not exist today without it.

     

    Not only that, but understanding how to correctly leverage debt has literally been my job for the last 10 years. :lolguy:

  6. Yeah....and?

     

    Who says debt is automatically a bad thing always?

     

     

    If its not making you money, and is not accumulated out of life necessity (IE, I need a place to live, or I dont have $10 to feel my kids, so I am putting it on a credit card till my food stamps come in) when is it a GOOD thing?

     

    And dont try to sell me on "Porsches dont lose value" bullfuck either LOL

  7. seriously, a 12-year loan???

     

    Folks, please look at the simple calculations used in the article...you're adding a ton of interest/taxes on a depreciating asset!

     

     

     

    There's actually a method to this madness, and it's attempting to buy, own and drive a car for 12-18 months with as little out of pocket as possible.

     

     

     

    LOL.

     

     

    Merica' is so accepting of Debt its insane.

  8. Thanks all!

     

     

    Jeebus...768AWHP in a car smaller than a Neon Coupe! :eek:

     

    That's sick. What wheels do you have on it as well?

     

    Ha! Thanks.

     

    I'd love to get it on a Dynopak and get some dynoqueen numbers ;) But I hope to see it trap int he mid 160s at this power level.

     

    Never driven a car with a power curve anything like that. My cars redline at about 6500, and are still making more power then that, then all of the sudden WHAM! Looks like fun.

     

    When it hooks in third its pretty wild. Power band wise it is similar to driving an S2000, or riding a 600 (just with a fuck ton more power) if your out of the band, you either have to downshift or wait...LOL

     

    Good grief.

     

    What system are you tuning this with?

     

    DSM Link (stock ECU w/ Chip) Its limited compared to everything else out there, but its cheap and works well for my needs!

     

    42psi? that's a heck of a lot of squeeze. On a stock bottom end?

     

    Nice numbers. Can you mess with the gearing any to get you closer to your 9's and 160+ trap speed?

     

    Simple Eagle/Wiesco Setup. 42psi is a LOT less than most going 160 plus are running. The guys at the top of the import 4 banger are all in the 80-90psi range these days.

     

    No real gearing options that are cheap. All I can do is add tire-but at 9k rpm with 26' tall tires I should be able to tickle 165 before the traps

     

     

    is there even a point revving it past 7625 rpm? looks like power flattens out and is just more risk to rev it higher.

     

    Awesome numbers

     

    200%. Thats where I WANT to be! I I could safely rev and shift at 10k I would. Consider what happens if I shift at 7500- I go to 5500-and I am out out of the power band. If i can shift at 9k- I call to 7k, in the middle of party time. Your talking about an almost 400whp different a those shift points.

     

    You gonna put a wing on this one? lol

     

    YES :p

     

    Who's got a Mustang Dyno up in Cleveland?

    Fucking everyone now- but this one is at Red Line tuning. Big 3 has a 2wd (just picked up a 4wd) and Buschur has a 4wd.

     

    160tq @ 4700 RPMs LOL.

     

    5000rpm clutch dumps for the fucking WIN. Crab walking that thing down the strip.

     

    In my defense I was starting the pull around 4500 may not have even been at full WOT but even so it would not be much more :)

     

    He gets it. From my old air cooled vw days, its a way to make the drive train last and get what he wants for the event. That fucker must fly.

     

     

    Yup! I want the torque as low and as late as possible. Eagle rods and stock drivetrain- got to baby the stuff!

  9. Getting into Big Powa. Made 100 moreHP than last year. Called it good at 42psi. Pump E75, 14 deg peak so plenty of room to grow! 670whp on this dyno was good for 156mph, so we will see what happens. My only goal was 9.9@160+ hopefully I have that covered. Cheapo notes- this is using $200 "bosch" 2200's form ebay. Turbo set up was an even trade $$ wise-everything else is the same from last year. Stock ignition on Copper NGKs

     

     

    It may not "make 900whp" but it will likley be faster than a lot of guys "making 900whp" ;)

     

    IMG_20180415_132506989-X3.jpg

  10.  

    Something to keep in mind is that if you are placing one in an area that already has a weak signal, the internet will be slow as balls because the signal is still weak. You will need to look up the difference between 2,4Ghz and 5Ghz WiFi to fully understand, but the short version is 5Ghz is better for short range and 2.4Ghz is better for long range.

     

    Hope this helps!

     

     

    So maybe I still dont understand...

     

    If I am going to a Internet in my power line set up- in theory wouldn't I have the same signal strength at each point in the system? If I have 3 "hot spots" I will have "ultimate signal" and ability to hardwire in at each of those spots?

     

    And not I am reading up on them- i am further confused. If it cant work through breaker- I dont see how this will help me at all as both of my location would be on different breakers

     

    "Note that power line adapters can't work through a breaker and perform the better the shorter the length of the electrical wiring in between them. "

     

    https://www.cnet.com/news/top-five-power-line-adapters-when-wi-fi-fails-you/

  11.  

    Disable WiFi on cable provider router, wire in an AP or two.

     

    Keep WiFi enabled on cable provider router, use an Ethernet over Powerline adapter to the distant device. Keep in mind you don't need a lot of throughput for a VOIP phone, more a solid connection that doesn't drop or suffer from latency spikes.

     

     

    Since you have two dead spots I would look at some of the 3 AP mesh systems that lots of places are offering. I haven't done much research because 1 AP covers my little shack.

     

    Thanks guys

     

    Ok- so AP = access point. I see what you're suggesting of "over powerline" I thought it was literally above a line int he ground or somthing LOL.

     

    So-there are devices I can plug into the wall-plug an ethernet cable into- and have internet accessible through my wall power outlet? This is interesting.

     

    Nate on your suggestion to disable Cable provider Wifi- the APs would be "over powerline" then correct? Then- the AP's themselves would be the Wifi? Also, if do some sort of over powerline set up (assuming this is how it works) could i theoretically place my desktop in any room that has a plug, and have viable wired internet access?

  12. Any help from the IT gurus is appreciated.....

     

     

     

    1) Should I just buy a great router that will fix all these issues and send the rented one back to the cable company? Or is this not the solution?

     

    2) If I want to boost a signal next to a device far from the router- do I need a RELAY device?

     

    3) What would CR do?!

  13. Wifi? Or do you need a cable? I run the Netgear PL1000 to my shop 200' away and works very well, Internet over powerline. Sender in the house and the receiver in the shop broadcasts wifi out but also has a port on the side of it so you can run an ethernet cable from.

     

    WIFI.

     

    Its all in the house- no shop. Need better WiFi in the house only

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