serpentracer

man the company I work for does work at the request of the home owners all the time without a permit.

if we get caught without one they pretty much don't give a shit if you give them their money.

if you have all the work done already etc.

if you show them proof a licensed contractor did the work etc the inspectors tend to go pretty easy on you.

also, you've always needed permits to do any kind of major work. it keeps idots from killing people by building things wrong.

well see though how do you know the oil is even worth the extra money. I mean as even that study has shown us, just because it's a synthetic name brand oil doesn't mean it's worth a crap.

ps, I've seen a badly damaged low mileage engine that used royal purple oil. I kind of figured that stuff wasn't worth a crap just because of that. but now with a little scientific testing I recon I was right.

looks like my feeling about Valvoline oil has also been proven right. it's just a standard dino oil that is out performing synthetics.

What about people suing for the bad food that caused them to be fat?

or, the pop that gave them kidney stones?

and sooo on..

.....and sooo on......

.........and soooo on...

from what I've been told not drinking enough fluids is what causes kidney stones.

not what you drink.

Well, if the bulbs both come on, the only thing I could think of is a break from after the circuit lights the bulbs going back to the indicator. It's obviously dumping power into the bulbs, but you have a break in the circuit that's making your bike think it has a bulb outage when it's really a problem in the line.

it's a bad bulb. they are dual filiment for the turn signal. when the filiment breaks it stays illuminated and doesn't blink. it's made like that so you know it's not working.

this is very normal.

98hp on a 01 isn't that bad though. that's actually pretty good from what I've seen.

most of them are down around 95.

my buddies 04 that has a ton of mods put out 109 at the rear tire.

bulb is bad.

cars do this too. mine will illuminate the dash signal and stay on.

yes I agree. I hate smokers and all but come on, you damn well know that shit can kill you. it's not something that is made up by doctors its a scientific fact.

this country should be ashamed of lawsuits like this. they shouldn't get one dime.

so if this guy gets money, who else is entitled for some? are they going to sue the farmers too???

$15 a quart? Holy Cow! I'm not sure where you saw Amsoil 10W/40 motorcycle oil for $15 a quart but I do know of several retailers around Columbus that sell the Amsoil 10W/40 motorcycle oil in the $10.35 - $12.00 a quart range. Check them out "AMSOIL RETAILERS COLUMBUS". Individual shops set the prices and many charge a bit more than suggested retail in order to make it worthwhile to stock Amsoil. The profit margin on Amsoil is not nearly as high as most oil on the shelf. Retailers carry Amsoil products because customers request it and they want to provide customers with the products they desire, not because of large profits. These retailers are providing a service by making Amsoil readily available through the long retail hours that their stores are open. During that time they are incurring costs. Please keep that in mind when shopping for Amsoil products.

everywhere I've seen it being sold wanted that much for it though.

I just still don't understand why any oil is anything more than $5 a quart. it just seems like such a rip off.

im sure amsoil paid for the study and money steers results. im not gonna continue to fight about oils, but i will say that many many people run rotella including myself with zero problems. good luck with the sales

ehh. using rotella, a motor oil designed for very low revving diesel engines in a high revving high heat engine in a motorcycle isn't the smartest thing.

that's just fucking stupid honestly.

ok I have a question. the price chart per ounce has amsoil at .29 per ounce. right about in the middle of the price range. so how come your oil cost more than all of the other brands on that chart?

I wanted some amsoil until I seen the $15/quart price tag.

I'm very surprised to see that mobil 1 racing 4T did so well. I just tried that oil and I noticed a few things about it I don't like.

for one it's really cloudy and dirty looking straight out of the jug compared to Repsol Sintetico. and smells like oil with 5k miles on it straight from the jug. it's been in for less than a 1k miles and it's already dirty dark brown. something repsol never did. I could change that stuff at 4k miles and it was still cleaner.

and now I keep hitting N when shifting to 2nd.

I am planing on getting it back out and going back to Repsol sintetico. it's the same price anyway.

it doesn't matter to my fingers and brain. they sometimes go very opposite ways. LOL

You're right, it really isn't crouds, it's crowds.

ahh I luve the wondering fingrs.

You're over thinking this for sure. Running a powwer tool wwith a sanding disc isn't needed. If the rotors are completely glazed? Maybe. But, he's changing pads and only needs to scuff them slightly.

You can do it your way or he can do what a lot of racers do and just use scitch brite pads and arm power....

I know but that still isn't the proper way to bed in a set of new pads.

you should always start with a 100% clean and flat rotor surface.

yes it kind of works but that's like throwing a new clutch in a car and not surfacing the flywheel.

just because some of you guys race doesn't mean you know how to properly do things to a bike. and some of the things I hear from some of them are very questionable.

I even have this buddy who is a jet fighter mechanic in the airforce. and he doesn't bother to synch his throttle bodies by the air screws like the service manual says to. he's either too lazy or just thinks you don't need to. he uses the screws that connect the flaps together.

just because he does it that way doesn't mean it's the right way...

Not to worry. I'm out. this is obviously not the place for me. All you little boys have your fun.

you need to grow a thicker skin. this is a internet forum.

the gap is not as bad as people make it out to be.

I've been there a ton of times. go out early morning when all the other people are still sleeping or just about to wake up.

the cops usually don't show up until 10-11am.

they know the crouds don't gather until then. and it's still not really "crouds".

most of them sit at the crossroads and bullshit most of the time.

the cherahola sucks. you have to do 100 just to have any fun.

but those are for dishes guys. go to a autobody supply store and buy the real scuff pads made for sanding stuff.

it works so much better. plus they are about $1.25 each.

but don't take my word for it. LOL.

and you are still going to spend a lot of time to get all of the glazing off. that's why real discs for this job are 100 grit and are used with a drill. (for making a true flat surface too) they will look just like a brand new set with all the cross hatching scratches etc. which will set the pads in properly too.

Looks like poor alignment, or improper tension to me.

By the way, anodizing doesn't "harden" the aluminum - its more or less there to protect the surface. There is hard coat anodizing. Even with that the friction of the chain would wear through any surface coating rather quickly.

they said anodized hardening. I always thought anodizing was for color.

they say the front is also case hardend and hard anodized for strength.

trust me. I'm a pretty good mechanic and none of my bikes get put together half assed.

the wheel is perfectly aligned. notice there is no wear on the outside of the sprocket, but I know you can't see the inside, but it's the same way.

and the chain tension is perfect.

the sprocket just isn't worth a crap.

the red scotch brite bads body shops use work better though. I do a little bit of painting so I've had some laying around to try. better than sand paper too.

or if you have some the plain paint stripping roloc disc work too. as you can tell I'm a man in favor of power tools

this is what you should do. it's faster, better, and easier on your arms than just the scuffing pads.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/3m1410.html

smoke, battery dead, loss of power, no more running and won't turn over.

first thing I think of is a bad regulator/rectifier and now battery. the liquid could be the battery acid from being over charged while you was riding. or just a coincidence and it's something else not related to the problem.

if the regulator/rectifier goes out the bike will run off the battery power until it dies. then you have nothing.

I just tossed a super nes in the trash a few months ago. that had 9 games.

I just didn't feel like doing the ebay thing etc.

too many jack asses on it anymore.

I'm just going to say it,

I don't care about guys like that...got what he deserves? too harsh of a statement??

oh well, it doesn't change my opinions about those kinds of people.

darwinism is right!

what is a good pad for split street and track use?

ferodo sintered has lasted me 25k miles now and they are about 3/4 of the way gone.

and they do work better than ebc HH and galfer sintered.

they need a little heat to work. so at first when you start out, they feel like normal brakes. but after one or two stops, it's a 5 fold increase in braking torque.

ferodo claims their pads have the highest braking coefficient of all street/trackday pads.

(I have the stac pads)

http://www.oppracing.com/products/600-ferodo-brake-pads/

first time trying brake pads other that stock I suspect?

actually that's one of the oldest tricks in the book to get you to pay more than their asking price.

all wheeler dealer lots will do this.

that's why you shouldn't waste your time with them. go to a reputable dealer lot.

I came back from a test drive once and they tried to tell me some old guy wanted the car and offered them an extra $2k and said he would sell it to me for $2,001 extra. I just laughed and handed him the keys and left.