kenny

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HoTTie31: You guys are so not cool. I was really proud of myself...in the freezing cold, took the initiave to do my plates even though I had no idea how!! And I did it. Now, on to bigger and better things...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Like what? Tying your own shoes? tongue.gif /me ducks for cover.

Simple. Go to Advance Auto and pick up a couple cans of engine paint. They even have Chevy orange. As long as the motor is clean you shouldn't get any flaking. http://thelittlebaby.dhs.org/kenny/jesse/P1010267.JPG http://thelittlebaby.dhs.org/kenny/jesse/P1010265.JPG Both of those are with that paint. Mine looks a bit shinier in that pic, but Jesse's is actually cleaner.

Hua mentioned something about this in one of his posts, you might want to do a search or ask him.

feets: I think it's pretty sweet you regestered over here. Your car is awesome and you shouldn't have any problems making the power you want. Have you ever thought about going to fuel injection and adding an intercooler?

Make it into an end table. That's about all they're worth.

I wonder who hes winking at... maybe that fool that was over here earlier...

Cough Ford 390 = FE block.

20G TSi: Streetable and practical are two different things. He said he wanted a driver, so anything insane is out of the question. I was just giving him a motor that would make good power, and get some gas mileage. If you want something insane... "454+.060 = 467 -TRW # 2399 pistons with Speed Pro file fit rings -10.0 - 10.7 CR depending on deck height, final combustion chamber volume and head gasket used. -Clevite bearings - mains, rod and cam -Fel-Pro gaskets -GM 3/8" rods with ARP bolts and GM crank(cast is fine at this level) with ARP main studs and GM windage tray -Moroso 6-Quart kicked-out pan # 20401 with pickup # 24440 -Melling oil pump -Manley or DynaGear double roller timing chain -#215 closed chamber oval port heads '67 - '68 with 2.19 / 1.88 valves, gasket matched and bowls blended -Performer RPM Q-Jet Manifold with GM lifter valley splash shield -Q-Jet carb with 75 main jet, 45B primary rod, AX secondary rods and B hanger -1/2" phenolic 4-hole spacer -GM carb heat shield -Ultradyne 288 / 296 hydraulic cam with matching springs - double w/damper. cam specs are 231I / 239E duration @ .050 with .550 / .575 lift ground on a 110LSA. Install on a 108 intake centerline -Rockers - either crane steel long slots or a roller. Isky are the best aluminum, Crower the best Stainless steel. Neither are needed at the power level. -3/8" one piece pushrods Crane or Comp -MSD ignition- 6AL box, coil and distributer(optional-allows easy curve adjustment) -Headers - 1 3/4" PRIMARY TUBE WITH 3" collectors. Remove collector(cut off) and install(weld) Flowmaster Scavenger Collectors # C-134214300 -3" headpipes with 3" crossover and 2 1/2" tailpipes. All bends to be mandrel. Use Flowmaster Big Block mufflers 3" in and out, offset - offset (quietest performance muffler) or DynoMax Oval RaceMagnum. -Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump, regulator and filter plumbed to stock 3/8" fuel line. -Mobil 1 10W-30 oil, Ford type F trans fluid and Mobil 1 gear lube -indexed spark plugs With a turbo 400, ATI 10" converter, 3.73 gears and either slicks or DOT slicks this combo will run 11.60's to 11.90's depending on weather, tuning and driver. My best was 11.49 @ 115 in mine shaft air weighing 4000+ lbs. on pump gas. This combo is fully streetable and was regularly driven to the track some 140 miles away and 2+ hours(one way) on a weekly basis. It was driven anywhere, never over heated and got 12-13 MPG on the highway with a lite foot. Set the total timing to 36 degrees and shift at 5800 for best ET. For my current combo just substitute a Comp cams street roller 238I / 244E duration @ .050, Performer RPM Air-Gap(not worth any ET), Holley 950 or 1000HP, 4.10 gear, lose the tailpipes and raise the shift point 200 RPM to 6000 and you'll run high 10's. Just don't forget things like a roll bar, SFI balancer, SFI bell housing shield, non-clip axles, and a real good suspension / tire package." That should get the job done. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]

He said a driver. You don't need high compression and a huge cam to make power, it's all about the heads. [ 11 February 2002: Message edited by: kenny ]

I'd pick up a LT1 and a T56 (I know you didn't ask about transmission, but you couldn't do the LT1 swap without the T56 tongue.gif ). If you stay with the old school motors I'd either go the 383 route or build a 377. Either way you went there I'd make sure to use a set of AFR heads and a .480 or so lift cam with around 9:1 - 9.5:1 compression.

I have 4.10's in mine as well. I don't drive the car everyday, but I pretty much drive it whenever I get the chance. The only thing that sucks with mine is the lack of overdrive (which the Mustang should have). With overdrive, theres nothing to worry about.

You should be getting way better than 12mpg. Brian is the Mustang expert, so I'll let him answer most of that, but yes the gears thing is true. With 4.10 gears you're making the motor spin faster and the tires spin slower (this increases torque, so it's easier to move the car). It will make the engine rev higher at cruising speeds. Your car is an auto right? I'm pretty sure the Mustangs had an overdrive auto (meaning the last gear is something like .67:1, the crank actually spins slower than the output shaft). $3k sounds like a lot of an exhaust and gears... ask around, I'm sure people from the board would help.

http://www.pentastarpower.com/feets/images/burnout.jpghttp://forums.off-topic.net/images/smilies/boink.gif

There are swap kits for Rangers just like there are for S10's. There is plenty of room under the hood. I've even seen (and raced) a Ranger with a SBC and a TH350.

Very nice list. We all know my personal favorite. As for the Elky suspension being the same as the Monte, it's the same car. My car shares a frame with the Monte Carlo, Malibu (speaking of Malibu, you forgot that ) and basically every other G-Body.