Smokey

I'm looking to weld wheel stops on my trailer for the FD and would like to know I've got it in the right position. Anyone got one I can borrow for a couple of days?

Good to see you on here. So you think you can find me a pair of those SSR's for reasonable? Looking for a pair of type-C's 17x9.5+42

That's also a viable choice. Haha.

That's a cool way to dip your toe in and see if you'd like HPDE.

Let us know if you get in. Andy and I are confirmed as instructors for that event. We'll be there all 3 days.

Signed up for all 3 days with MORPCA at Mid Ohio 4/24-4/26. Hope to see some of you there.

I support buying a S2000 over a Miata, but will admit they have tons of support. No need to hate on the outgoing car if it's served you as well as it has. Enjoy the good times and hopefully someone can make it live on. It sounds like its time for you to move onto the next chapter.

I messed up and missed the one on 7club and didn't see them in time. Talked to the guy on VW vortex and he didn't want to split his set unfortunately. Was trying to work a trade for my fronts plus cash for his rears but couldn't get it done.

Bob, think he ca find me a pair of SSRs to match my rears (17x9.5+42) for reasonable? My efforts have come up empty.

The brakes will be the only performance mods this year, but far from the only work the car will see. Sometimes it's pretty crazy what it takes to keep an old Mazda going fast at the track 6-8 times a year. For the new brakes I have to update my backing plates and ducting and I'll need help with that. I'll be swapping the turbos again because this set is smoking. At that time I'm going to replace the downpipe with one that's easier to remove, is ceramic coated, and uses the factory hanger. That means I'll be draining/filling the coolant at the same time and running a more water-oriented mix to try to stay cooler in the hot months. I will also seal up the gaps/ducting better to the radiator as well. I'll be pulling the transmission to fix a small leak and add a transmission pan spacer that'll allow me to hold an extra quart of fluid. I'll be realigning the car for slightly more camber front and rear to better match to the new sways. I'll hopefully finally add the dtrans and diff braces I've had in the garage. Other potential projects are to replace the rear pillow ball bushings, do rear suspension poly bushings, lightweight battery, re-weight the car, replace the passenger interior door handle, fix the radio, and hook back up the horn. So....I'll be plenty busy! I also plan to go thru 2 sets of rotors, 3-4 sets of pads, half a case of brake fluid, 12-18 quarts of Amsoil gear oil, 5 gallons of Rotella T6, 2 sets of Nittos, about 20 gallons of water (water injection), and upwards of 360 gallons of gas....assuming nothing breaks which is a long shot.

Poorly! Some of the reason I learned to roll more speed into turn 7 at the end of the back straight this year is because I was boiling off the brakes after 5 laps or so. Haha. I've been running an older Wilwood BBK for years and I really reached its limits in 2013. It had good stopping power but with stock rears it was forward biased and chewing up front brakes and running too hot (already had dedicated ducting). For 2015 I'm switching to the AP racing front brakes and running the Sakebomb garage bigger rear rotors with the stock calipers. This should help give more rearward bias on the car and hopefully give me longer consumable life. Thanks Greg, it just took the boredom of winter for me to finally dig thru this stuff. Haha. At the time it sure felt like winter while driving as you can see I'm wearing a hoodie and have the passenger window up while driving. Hoodie makes using the Necksgen a bit tricky.

Finally getting around to reviewing my data and video from last year. During 2014 I changed sway bars to a stiffer setup and rebuilt my shocks. The rest of my (many) in season efforts were dedicated to keeping this old girl on the track and driver development. I chased in circles a few times on sway bar settings before landing on this configuration. It makes the car less forgiving but ultimately faster. In 2013 I was happy to get down to a :39.7 but faster is always the goal. My car always turns it's fastest laps at Mid-Ohio in the fall. The combo of cold air and warm track suits it well. The car runs 255/275 Nitto NT-01s and made 325whp about 7 years ago so who knows now after that many years of track abuse. Haha These videos are from my last event in October. I only have the data/video on 1 lap right now because I don't want to buy the full Race Render until they can figure out how to put my predictive lap time data in there. Fastest lap with data: 1:38.7 4 last laps of that session which are :38.8, :39.7, :38.7, and a :39.2 which I got balked at the end by traffic at the checker. Listen close for my reaction. Haha

I love everything about this car....except that I won't be ble to justify buying one especially to track it. If they follow the (lack of) depreciation curve of other GT cars from Porsche I won't be able to buy a used one either for quite some time.

Nice pick up. I've had my Kahki Chrono Auto for 10 years now and beat the piss out of it and it's never skipped a beat.

Dang....that's crazy light.

Nice photos. I was really hoping Taylor racing would get it done this year.

Looks cool good luck with the project.

Lolz I definitely drive the white comet. I clear all of my windows and as much as I can from the sides but I'm not going to stand on a tire to get the top of my SUV. With my old dodge it would always keep a big chunk of ice stuck at the windshield cowl and if someone rode my ass on the highway I could turn on the wipers and send that piece of ice flying behind me toward them. Instant satisfaction.

I'd be really surprised if you could buy ANY parts from the 26b from Mazda let alone an eccentric shaft (it's not a crank shaft). If you find proof of that though please share. The 4 rotors I've seen pics and vids of didn't use any thick irons but instead adapted standard irons to take bearings and support the longer eccentric shaft. The renesis was a step forward and a step back in rotary development. The use of side ports for the exhaust was a compromise to try to keep emissions within specs and is a design compromise. The 26b was definitely peripheral port for both intake and exhaust as that's always how you'll make the most absolute power in a rotary (with the trade off of low end, drivability, and idle). If you're concerned about making the most hp out of your 4 rotor then you'll want to be PP too which will mean drilling any housings you have so starting with renesis parts will just mean you have to do more work for no additional benefit.

http://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-product-development-interest-3rdgen-rx-7-269/defined-autoworks-4-rotor-kit-group-buy-1075028/ Good news: Your solution is local and already has a running example. They've also figured out mounting, ECU, and oiling options. Bad news: it's expensive as shit, and you'll never do it better than them on your own and likely never be cheaper either. I'd be interested to know why you think the renesis parts would be better than 13b stuff for a 4 rotor? Are you not thinking you'd want PP housings?

Yeah it's just under $40 with their modem and taxes/fees. I consistently get 26-28mbps speeds thru wireless using their setup. Anybody have feedback on Jetflicks or just trust my gut that it's shady as shit?

Yes the Wow deal is for 12 mos but still worth it. I just started their 30/30 deal. It's $7 for a modem if you don't have your own.

Bumping this up because I'm dumping U-Verse today and going internet only. I have FireTV Stick and I'm planning on a Roku3 to compliment it. How legal or not is Jetflicks? Seems shady as crap and you can't even see their cost structure without signing up for a free trial. They sure have a ton of shows and claim them in HD, but I also see that they're not directly supporting the Roku now like they did in the past.

Sounds like refinishing may be your best option. Of your price range and design requirements about the only option that makes sense are the FN-01 that we're suggested already. http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/267577d1195569010-5zigen-fn01-rcs-fd-rx710.jpg There are a set of both 17" and 18" SSR Type-Cs with tires for sale on the forum for around $2200.

Capital one used to do their "blank check" for private buyers and older cars, but the rules changed after things went to crap in 08.