redkow97

powering the bike up a ramp, whether riding it or walking it, is a risky move at best. When I loaded into my pickup, I would get a running start, but never go so fast that you're out of control. have a step-box so you can get yourself into the bed more easily. Get the bike as high up the ramp as your momentumn will take you, and then hold the front brake. once stopped, have a second person grab the rear wheel at its base, and rotate the wheel rather than pushing on the tail. Not only does that ensure they're not pushing on bodywork that might break, but it also keeps the force they exert from pushing the bike anywhere but forward. Nothing sucks more than having your frient push the bike to the right (away from you) and having it fall on its side in the bed of the truck, or off the ramp... Once the bike is in the bed, have the same person who helped you push sit on it while you strap it down. Their weight compresses the forks a bit, so "snug" is all you need (not tight). If you think the rear wheel is going to be resting on the tailgate, throwing a large board in the bed may not be a bad idea, to distribute the weight of the bike onto the bed a bit, and off the tailgate. Just be VERY aware that the board may slide, so it should be as fitted to the bed size as possible.

The STT staff told me long ago that the sealer used on the current asphalt is designed to reduce dry grip by a certain degree, so that the Le Mans series cars and other "hyper-exotics" lose traction before pulling the pavement to the point that it ripples. That actually extends the life of the pavement, and as long as it's consistent, I don't mind it while riding. The rain is an obvious problem and trade-off, but when investing that much money into a facility, I understand and support their logic.

I am sure it rides and handles really well considering how rotund it is, but I just can't get past certain aspects of the goldwing... - cost. It's $20k. I can buy a civic for less than that, and carry a ton more stuff, all while getting comparable (if not better) mileage in the car - weight. I don't care if it handles well while riding, it's still 900 lbs. Motorcycles should not need a reverse gear. - stereo. Again, there are certain things motorcycles just should not need. A radio is one of them. I understand the desire to have tunes on long-ass highway hauls, but helmet speakers for such occassions seems less... I don't know... less pussy-douche-couch. I completely understand why some people adore the goldwing, and it is certainly great for touring - I just can't get over the fact that it has crushed (what I think of as) the soul of motorcycling. There is supposed to be a little noise, a little wind, and a little discomfort. Those are the trades you make for the thrill of riding. It's kind of like owning an older convertible: They flex in turns, the top leaks when it rains, they're noisy on the highway, etc. - but then every so often, there's that one perfect 77 degree day, when the sun is out, and you just love your convertible. That's how I feel 90% of the time I'm on a motorcycle, in spite of all the sacrifices. The goldwing is too polished for me. Almost numb. Like a player-piano. Technically correct, but no soul.

That does sound great, I just wish there were better rubber options. I want to be able to go to track days and at least run at the front of "I" without worrying about grip. That means something in teh Pilot Power realm of performance would be required for my peace of mind. I keep coming back to the Katana 750. Lack of radiator makes it an easier streetfighter candidate, and the extra torque doesn't hurt either. I just wonder how it will do on the track. Maybe I do just want an SV, or an F2/F3 with dirtbike bars.

They will get so squirrelly exiting the keyhole and cresting the hill before thunder valley... Would be great spectating.

I have never liked putting the front wheel in the corner of the bed, because it moves the tie-down points so close to the wheel. Remember, the objective is to keep the bike from falling left or right - that is best accomplished by having tie-down points as far from the bike as possible. In a perfect world, they would be well wider than the bed of the truck... the closer the tie-down points get to the front wheel, the more they pull down rather than side-to-side. shoving the front wheel in the corner makes this worse, IMO.

It's slightly TOO race ready for street use, or I'd probably keep it.

I want to get a streetfighter project going, but I've been indecisive about what bike to start with as a base, and short on funds to take the plunge. My finances may be improving this weekend (knock on wood), but I'm still kind of torn on what bike to start with. I keep debating between "whatever 90's 600 I can find for a decent price" and Katana 750. The lack of radiator makes things a lot cleaner on a streetfighter, IMHO, but I want to be able to do track days on whatever I end up with as well. I think I really just want a Honda 599 for that costs $1,000 or so. Oh well. The search continues.

yeah, a cover will rub paint off the bike the same way straps will. The hard-cup canyon dancers seem to be really good. They eliminate all the potential issues I can think of with the older models. The only thing I would add is some redundant straps on the rear wheel. Loop the strap around the top of the rear wheel and then through itself. one to each side of the truck. That should hold the bike up if one of the front straps lets go. At least long enough for you to pull over and fix it. Don't cinch that down too tightly, as you'll squish the tire, but make them snug. I wouldn't transport that far without a wheel chock, but if you don't already have one, just find a piece of plywood and cut it to the width of your truck bed. Then install (or make) a wheel chock on the plywood. The weight of the front wheel will keep it in place, and the plywood being the width of the bed will keep it from sliding side-to-side.

The CBR 500 makes sense for Honda, but only because they don't make a 650 twin. I have heard rumblings (may be confirmed by now) that the 250R will be 300cc in the near future to keep up with the baby ninja. The 500 seems like a really small step in between. that said, maybe Honda perceives a market that the EX500 vacated? The EX was about 450 lbs wet, and 52hp on its best day. The Honda 500 is listed at 425 lbs (still seems heavier than necessary...), and 47hp. With room for tuning, 60hp wouldn't be out of the question. if they could get the weight down to 350 or so, it would be a hell of a ride, even if it only had 50hp. I'd at least want to test ride one.

"Lean" is probably not the best word to use either. You're not really leaning the bike so much as you are causing the front wheel to move out from under the bike. The result is lean angle, but that is a biproduct of the (subconscious) act of counter steering. Any conversation on turning a motorcycle has to start with a realization that 1) at any reasonable speed, the bike wants to stay straight and upright, and 2) the goal is to carry the least lean-angle necessary, to keep maximum traction.

If this is a serious question, there are probably at least 5 or 6 threads on this topic already.

I only check my credit score before making major purchases. When we bought our house 4 years ago, all my scores were around 800, and the wife's were slightly higher (which pissed me off, because I had purchased a car, and she had no comparable credit history). When we bought a car a couple of years later, the scores were essentially the same. We had more debt (the mortgage and my student loans), but that didn't seem to matter, because it wasn't credit card debt, and I hadn't missed or made any late payments.

I keep it under 70mph indicated (so more like 65 according to the GPS). But it would be nice to feel comfortable pushing 80mph at times. Just to get around trucks, or get out of people's way when i get caught in the left lane and can't move over right away.

Okay, that's the same video I watched 2 years ago. Guess I've been doing it right every spring....

If you do go HF route, don't tighten any main frame pieces until you have each section together. Much easier to keep it square if you save final tightening til last.

That's a big if. I have seen a 13" wheel come of an enclosed trailer at 65 mph. It was coming toward me, so I have no clue if that was due to bearing failure, but that image has stuck with me. How does one properly pack trailer bearings? I searched a bit online for this when I first got my trailer, but didn't find much clear advice.

12" wheel model is actually 1195 lbs. capacity, and online price is $289 http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-capacity-48-inch-x-96-inch-heavy-duty-foldable-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-wheels-90154.html 8" wheel model is 950 lbs. capacity, but only $10 cheaper (at least online) http://www.harborfreight.com/950-lb-capacity-foldable-4-ft-x-8-ft-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42709.html There's also a 13" wheel model that's over 1700 lbs. capacity, and $349. I don't know anyone who owns it though.

There are already multiple threads on this topic. Either buy something used for $300, or just go out and buy the harbor freight folding model that a bunch of us already have. If you wait for it to go on sale, or use the 20% off coupon, it's under $300. http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=92357&highlight=light+trailer http://www.ohioriders.net/showthread.php?t=90761&highlight=light+trailer I have the 4x8 folding model with 12" wheels (1100 lbs max load). There is also a cheaper model that has 8"(?) wheels, and a lower max load, but would be fine for one bike. The smaller wheels would mean you want to keep it under 60 on the highway, but if you're not using it that often and never doing much more than 100 miles per trip, you'd probably be okay.

Again, I only read teh CO law, but you still have to be 21 to legally possess marijuana.

I actually heard this from two other pretty level-headed sources as well. One of those two runs a "tactical supply" shop, and he's a very quiet guy. Not one to yap about this sort of thing if he didn't sincerely believe it was a real risk.

who will guard the guards?

who was riding it?

*edit - ^ answered my question before I looked it up to clarify. I need a year on an XR100 to get a white plate before this can be raced :-/ wouldn't this be an F1 bike? F2 is limited to 72cc liquid-cooled 2-strokes.

I know a former LEO who has 22,000 rounds of 380 in his basement, and he doesn't even own any gun in that caliber! (Granted, he drove to Texas in 2008 and bought 3 pallets of ammo, then sold it off at 200% markup when Obama took office. My point being that I doubt even he keeps 20,000 rounds on hand for personal use.)