Gump

Could you hold out for the gmc/ Chevy canyon/ Colorado 2016 turbo diesel? That's one truck I'd pre-order.

Yota

What's up with this raining every evening crap. The grass needs cut.

I thought maybe he just got done paying off SCOTUS.

https://m.whitehouse.gov/photos-and-video/video/2015/07/04/have-safe-and-happy-fourth-july

If It actually is better, it's about a half hour after its warm. I'd call it intermittent.

Ok. Even though it shifts fine and the converter locks up properly, have you ever heard of a converter robbing power at higher speeds? On another note, there are times it seems like hill power problem is gone. From a time perspective it seems to be on the same stretch of road.

Any Info would be good, I'm running out of things to test/check/or replace. Lol The plug wire on the coil didn't change anything. Guess I could have the ICM tEsted.

It's was replaced in May.Did you pull your IAC plug yet?

I used a vac pump on every single thing that could be tested. No leaks. Except for the one hose I broke of course. Then hosed it down with card cleaner with the IAC and distributor spout off. No change. Vac from intake is 19 and steady. Once you plug the IAC and spout back in then vac kinda bumps around slightly.

They're newer and I don't see or hear any arching in the dark.

Fuel pressure remained the same when given gas. I'll try brake torquing it.Not missing that o can tell. Wonder if the whole problem was week spark with the crappy plug wire for a cool wire. Didn't get a chance to drive it since. I am intrigued that while checking for a vac leak with propane and then even purposely feeding the intake propane the idle didn't change.

Yep. It's good. 40 key on. 33.5 running. No leak backs. I towed a 6000# camper with it tonight on state routes and it dropped to around 35 on the bigger hills. It's as if it has no torque after 2000rpm. The hose on the pvc valve sucks in on itself so I'll replace that because it's old. Re-checked TPS it's good. Timing good. Some Redneck put a plug wire on the ignition coil which has a smaller connector than your spark plugs so I crimped it till I get a new one. I'm out of ideas, there are no hose vac leaks. Guess I'll soak it in starter fluid.

Slightly related, the IPO, FIT, is rocketing. Go baby go! Although now that I said that maybe it's a good time to short sale it.

I'll try it.

So if I disconnect the idle air control it slows down the idle. I can't figure it's supposed to shut down the engine or just slow if down. If it's supposed to shut it down and my butterflies are closed at idle then I have vac leak somewhere.

Thank you!

It's EFI. Any old Ford nuts out there? Starts fine. Idles fine, shifts fine, just no power up hills. Almost as if it's not getting a timing advance or fuel. There's no pinging or backfiring, not running rich. Just sluggish. I've checked the codes. Its clear and no dash light. It's obd 1. Checked the plug wires, disconnected each injector and noticed a miss on each one so I assume those are good along with with spark. Checked timing which is correct at 10BTDC with spout disconnected. Checked TPS with a digital ohm meter and seems ok. Butterflies are a little dirty but not sticking open and wouldn't cause the problem. Checked all around for a vacuum leak There is a MAP sensor and only has 1 02 sensor. Catalytic converter has been removed so it not plugged. Checked the air box it's clear. Next I'll take a fuel rail reading and test fuel regulator I guess. Maybe check the EGR but I don't think the EGR would cause this amount of lack of power. It recently had a new front tank and fuel pump installed. Rear tank is junk. Not sure what else to look at besides compression check. Read maybe it's the ICM (ignition control module) but I don't know how to test it and don't like just shotgunning parts into it. Maybe O2 but I don't know. I had a Porsche once have an O2 go bad and resulted in a big power loss. It's a beater truck and has been a pain in the $ss. New rear hangers, shackles, lead springs, starter, right front wheel bearing, tires, radiator cap, battery cable ends, wiper blades, 7 pin trailer plug and some yahoo cut the factory tow package wire plug off at the back of the truck which included the reverse lights, constant power, and electric brake wire but I got it re-wired and was able to use the factory plug up front to tie the new brake controller into.

I can see the law suits now. Your screen glitches, it was all clear, crash, trucking companies fault.

I think your wasting your money on additives. Never once have I had them directly fix a real problem. Sounds like your idle circuit, aka low speed orifice is plugged on one of the carbs maybe. A little piece of dirt in the fuel bowl is being sucked up blocking the hole or stil in the hole . My first thing is to turn off the gas if possible and drain each carb via the screw on the bottom of the carb fuel bowl. If that doesn't work pull off the bowls and inspect. I agree with inspecting the rubber carb boot between the carb and head 1st. Possibly rain water is just a coincidence.

Food for thought. I carried a heavier gun in the past and it was a pain in the butt. now I carry a bodyguard. It doesn't get shot regularly. A carry piece that's comfortable to carry concealed is not a gun you shoot regularly for fun. I don't want to even feel I'm carrying it. It should be no more annoying than your phone in my opinion. There accuracy sucks anyways. Unless you like shooting at 15' and under.

Daring jumping spider.

Horizon audio, horizon motor sports, horizon audio of alliance, do it. Horizon audio did my suby years ago. Not that I can compare to someone else's work but I have no complaints.

So the BBB contacted Hertz with my statement and Hertz replied with a sincere apology crediting anything that I was charged. I'd like to know what pay structure Hertz gives their employee to make them such gold diggers.

Sr22 is a great little gun. If You want an actual target gun for plinking go Ruger Mark III.