street pilot

spring is coming! graemlins/thumb.gif

spring is coming! graemlins/thumb.gif

sold.

sold.

just wanted to drop a note and say nice ride! smile.gif

just wanted to drop a note and say nice ride! smile.gif

i have one, you can have it for $10. i didnt think it worked all that great.

no I dont.. but I always use the oil in the cylinders with a compression tester method, I dont know how exact you are trying to be here...

maybe you should get a shitload of fiberglass and see if you cant trash your fairings even more. smile.gif

You sure you got everything back on the head? My experiences with M&M include them forgetting to include all the parts initially given to them. Go buy some ultraviolet sensitive dye, add it to your oil, run the engine and use a blacklight to search for the spot where the oil is seeping. That is the best thing I can tell you to do right now, I dont have time to physically look at it.

are you sure? He said its an accord. Accords are different from most other hondas. On the accords its not 2 screws and out. However, if you really can do accord rotors 20 min. a side I wouldnt mind watching/helping because I always thought they were much more difficult.

I have x-drilled, and I think I warped them ever so slightly. Pretty bad if you ask me since they were about $200. I think if I had to do it over again I would get brembo blanks with some good pads. Dont get me wrong, x-drilled are great if they dont warp or crack. Stop on a dime with very little brake fade.

Well you will definitely want a jet kit with that exhaust. Also, I would actually recommend just the slip on, because with most bikes the difference between full/SO is not that big of a deal on the street, especially if you want to keep this low cost.

I rented one from autozone. You have to put a deposit down then you get it back when you return the tool.

anyone know how to pull a code from a check engine light in a ford? How about a list of codes? Or does the code have to be pulled with a diagnostic tool? thanks

You could use a chain wrench, but beware it will damage the pulley. Option 2: there should be a large hex shaped hole in the pulley. Measure it from side to side. If it is 2" I might be able to help you out. I have a tool (homemade) that fits those pulleys.

lmao, all too familiar.....

Mine goes to 150. If it was me, I would just torque as high as you can, then give it another little nudge. Even at 80 ft/lbs, it should be fine, because you also stake the nut dont you? Well, just thought I would give my .02, but good luck getting a wrench, you can use mine if you want.

If you only want to use it once, check your local AutoZone. I believe they rent them out, but I am not sure what all sizes they have....

hey, if anyone has a decent chain wrench that I could use I would really appreciate it, or even if anyone knows where I could maybe rent one or even buy one at a good price let me know. Thanks in advance

I wasn't aware of any arguing going on here

I should have also added that the cam has a revised profile. You could lower the Vtec engagement RPM with a V-AFC, but the car will run horrible. In reguards to more lift at lower RPMS....Idle quality would suffer tremendously,emissions would be horrible and engine turque/response would decrease dramatically. The low cam profile is designed for good gas mileage, good idle, good throtle response and more torque (relative too a Honda!). With many Vtec cams, the vtec engagment point must be raised to prevent power from falling off before and during the changeover. to the higher cam profile.[/QB]</font>I think he meant use the v-afc to jack the vtec point higher in the rpm band on a turbo application. (maybe not ) Yes this can be done since the majority of the valve overlap is in "vtec range", but then remember you are essentially using only the smaller lobes on the cam, in a sense wasting the larger profiled lobes. The best solution in my opinion is a combonation of the v-afc and cam gears.

Ditto. Ever hear of doing your own work? </font> Not on a honda!

is that bumper urethane or fiberglass?

Does your van already have power locks? IF you choose not to do it yourself I also would suggest auto preservers. The guy that runs that shop is pretty cool and down to earth (does A++ work) CCA on the other hand everyone there acts like your car is trash, well used to anyway, havent been there for a while, but their prices were always high. Oh, and no matter what DO NOT give CCA your address for any reason. They dont need it. I heard there is some foul shit that goes down in that shop (rumors)