I'm Changing My Brakes, Any Tips?

[OsuMj]

It seems pretty straight forward, remove brake pads, clean it up, install new brake pads.  Anything that I should know before I finish?

[Gixxus Christ!]

Need to compress the pistons back into the caliper so that the new, thicker pads will fit over the disc. This can be done with a prying motion with a variety of implements. Some prefer to crack the master cyl reservoir open to make it easier to push the fluid back up the lines.

Your new pads will likely have a bit of a glaze on them depending on material, I scuff mine on concrete before installing.

Measure your discs and inspect for cracking, warping, excessive brake material stuck on.

Once its all back together be sure to pump the lever a few times to push the pistons back out. This is important. If you just hop on and ride you will find you don't have brakes for the first few times you squeeze the lever.

[bowdog]

^^^

100%

[ReconRat]

I just push on the caliper before removing the old pads, to open up the gap for the new pads.

It won't seem like it's moving, but just apply constant force and it will move slowly.

Release the pressure at the master cylinder if necessary.

 

Do not get brake fluid on paint, or much of anything else really.

Cover everything up to protect it.

 

Do not add brake fluid before installing the pads.

 

You can remove brake fluid from a master cylinder by wicking it out with a paper towel.

 

Bleeding the brakes usually isn't necessary when changing pads.

Edited June 6, 2013 by ReconRat

[OsuMj]

thanks.  I actually am replacing the brake fluid too (if i can find where i put my freakin fluid that i just bought yesterday )... I'm having a hard time compressing the pistons by hand and tried using a screw driver with a cloth over the end so i don't scratch em up....  any other advice for how to do this?  Do i just squeeze them back? Im always afraid i'm going to break my bike.

[ReconRat]

pumping the brake lever will close them. Slowly/gently pumping the brakes.

Close the top on the master cylinder first.

 

The new pads are usually about the same size as the gap they fit in.

So it will be fun getting them to fit in there.

 

On cars I use a big C clamp to push the caliper open.

On bikes sometimes I hammer/pry with a wedge of hardwood.

 

The object is to retract the piston(s) all the way back into the caliper(s) that holds it.

Any method of doing that should be good. They are pretty tough to damage.

But they are mostly aluminum, so something softer than aluminum.

Edited June 6, 2013 by ReconRat

[OsuMj]

one down, one to go.   I stripped a bolt getting it off though.... ug.  morning honda run to get a new one

[ReconRat]

I assume striped the head of the bolt, not the thread.

Torque caliper bolts back on. Bad if they loosen up.

Brakes move, bolts try to loosen.

[magley64]

I usually just squeeze the calipers back by hand, it takes a little effort, and time, but you run a slightly lower risk of breaking or bending something, I've also used channel lock pliers and a chunk of wood...

[OsuMj]

I assume striped the head of the bolt, not the thread.

Torque caliper bolts back on. Bad if they loosen up.

Brakes move, bolts try to loosen.

 

yeah, just the head of the bolt.  np.  I'll pick up a new one at honda tmrw morning.  if they don't have them, its probably still got a couple of sides that are good enough to use, but i'd rather just replace it so its not a bitch to remove later.

 

I usually just squeeze the calipers back by hand, it takes a little effort, and time, but you run a slightly lower risk of breaking or bending something, I've also used channel lock pliers and a chunk of wood...

 I ended up wrapping awrench in a cloth and using it.  Worked

[BMMW]

Don't use the old pads to push the pistons back in right off. There's usually a lot of dirtyness around them. Clean up around the extended pistons, then push em' back in.

[Medina]

Find a website specific to your bike, search there for tips-tricks problems specific to your bike (mine has a problem, the foot pedal also works the front opposite caliper and bleeding them can be a biotch)

Do replace the fluid minimally every two years- its cheap, I flush mine out yearly. 

Do NOT  contaminate those new pads with anything- while the bike is on a stand, spin the wheel and drag 400 grit paper over the disc to clean and remove any glazing-wipe down after

after bleeding, as mentioned, go easy around the block.

its an easy job on most bikes and save a ton of money. Not enough mechanics will spend the time YOU will looking for problems. 

WHILE you're in there look for other things wrong, cracked brake lines, weeping connections etc. 

[ScubaCinci]

I'd like to thank you for spelling 'brakes' correctly for the context