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Daytona 675 Won't start without a jump


TimTheAzn
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Bought a new battery yesterday and it was 12.3x volts off the tender this morning. Put it in the bike, gauges sweep lights come on my new brake light turns on, thumb the started and get the Daytona "click" and the bike "resets". Got it started by jumping it with the car and rode for about an hour and some odd minutes. Get back to my driveway turn it off and then 5 min later go to turn it back on again and same thing. "Click". The battery is still at 12.3x volts. kinda left me scratching my head, but before I return the battery and try another I was wondering if any of you guys had some things I could check. Any input would be appreciated.

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1 hour ago, Tonik said:

 

Perhaps.  Start it and make sure it is charging.  It should be over 14V when running.

And do Tim's test too, humor us.

When I turn the accessories on it dips below 11V, when I hit the starter it dips lower. So when I got it started it runs 13.8-14.5 when idle and revving. So battery?

Edited by TimTheAzn
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18 minutes ago, TimTheAzn said:

When I turn the accessories on it dips below 11V, when I hit the starter it dips lower. So when I got it started it runs 13.8-14.5 when idle and revving. So battery?

Yep. That assumes your battery connections are good. And since you just had them off I am sure you looked and they are clean.

Sorry for the extra effort, but bad new batteries are not that common.

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10 minutes ago, Tonik said:

Yep. That assumes your battery connections are good. And since you just had them off I am sure you looked and they are clean.

Sorry for the extra effort, but bad new batteries are not that common.

I'm not sure how long that thing was sitting in store though. When I brought it home it registered 3V. I'm going to get another somewhere else..

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http://www.yuasabatteries.com/pdfs/TechManual_2014.pdf

Hey Tim. I don't know where you bought that battery but I'm sure they were glad to get it off the shelf. 3 volts? Read the last paragraph on page 13.  At 12.3 volts it still is only about 60/65 % charged. Thee single most important thing for long battery life is properly putting it in service. Read this manual so that you have ammunition when you take the battery back. I would only accept one that has not been filled so that I could put it into service properly. 

 

Here is a good rendition of how to check your starting system. Do notice that the probes are not attached to the cable but to the battery post and solenoid post. There are other vids for doing a voltage drop test as well. Do not assume all connections are okay because  they are tight. This goes for the ground side as well. Check them. 

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I think most peeps have had great luck with Yusa batteries.  Much of their stuff is OEM with a different label slapped on it. Amazon is usually a good bet for them.  Can't believe you went to Cycle Gear.  :facepalm:

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2 hours ago, Tonik said:

I think most peeps have had great luck with Yusa batteries.  Much of their stuff is OEM with a different label slapped on it. Amazon is usually a good bet for them.  Can't believe you went to Cycle Gear.  :facepalm:

 

I had a coupon!

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1 minute ago, TimTheAzn said:

 

I had a coupon!

 

You got it at IMS.  You should have told me, I would have given you the one they gave me.  Then you would have had two.  One to shit on and the other to cover it up with.

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11 minutes ago, Tonik said:

 

You got it at IMS.  You should have told me, I would have given you the one they gave me.  Then you would have had two.  One to shit on and the other to cover it up with.

Am I sensing some hostility towards Cycle Gear? :lol:

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2 hours ago, blue03636 said:

 

Well for starters if the battery was one that had to have the fluid dumped into it, that should never be done prior to buying so I would have to agree with Tonik.

No I agree lol. Not happy about it. Hence why I am not giving them a second chance. Returning it and going to Kennedy's like normal. I just didnt feel like driving to Elyria this past saturday.

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