hiro Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Please tell me I don't need to pull the caliper off to clean and lube it. I'm guessing that the cylinders aren't fully retracting. https://youtu.be/I2zteQ6pO9o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfeman28 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Cylinders are probably all right, that noise is not from a brake pad applying pressure to a disc. Sounds more like some hardware is rubbing. Just FYI, on calipers the piston doesn't really 'retract'. After you apply hydraulic pressure and release, the side to side movement on the disc ever so slightly moves the pad and piston away, so there is always a little brake drag(hence why full floating rotors are used on race bikes. Noisy as all hell but very little drag!). If you had a stuck piston, it wouldn't make much sound, just normal braking friction that didn't release. Whats your pad thickness look like on both sides? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfeman28 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 That's a good question to ask too. Wheel not centered? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Apparently I am the only one that thinks this is normal. All my Kaw's have done that, can hear it when I push it out of the garage. Noisy as fuck front brakes at low speed. Assuming it wasn't recently apart. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 I hate diagnosing sounds over the interwebs, you can never tell how loud it actually is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 21 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said: I'm asking because the wheel slows to a stop pretty quickly. The noise doesn't bother me. This. You should be getting a lot more free spin. Wheel not centered properly or maybe a warped rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 You don't know how hard he spun it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) I can't watch the clip because im at work(they block youtube) but I don't understand the problem with removing the wheel and brakes to check it out? If my bike has any kind of questionable problem I'm going to dig in and figure out what it is if anything. I know not everyone is a jackass of all trades like I am but I can remove my wheel, caliper and pads on my bike in less than 15 min., it not the difficult. It's only your life at stake, nothing less. Just my thoughts on this before I get to see the video. Edited March 7, 2016 by 2talltim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfman1 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 It cant hurt to put the bike on the stands and pull the wheel. I have pulled my wheels to inspect my calipers and pistons on a couple of occasions. Once off, I will clean the caliper and pistons due to the crud that builds up on them. If you have a static balancer, you can set up the wheel to check run out on the rotors to see if its warped. Its common sense to me to inspect these items regularly anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxus Christ! Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 Easier to check run-out on the bike with a dial indicator...if you have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 The brakes made the same scraping noise with the stock pads before I took the wheel off. New pads, bolted wheel back on, same noise. I haven't taken them out on the street yet. Tomorrow. The stock pads were worn down from 4.5mm to about 1.85mm at the thinnest parts. (The service manual says they're good down to 1mm, but I already had some EBC FA197HH pads on the way.) Before I put the front on a stand, the only time I noticed the noise was while backing the bike out of the garage with the engine off. Even then I thought it mainly happened when the wheel was turned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 12 hours ago, Tonik said: I hate diagnosing sounds over the interwebs, you can never tell how loud it actually is. It's actually that loud. I mean, if you're right in front of the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 The slide pins were not perfectly smooth, but not bad. My feeling is, maybe they should be lubed. My other thought is, I don't want to use the wrong lube and have it either attract dirt or thicken up, or the opposite--get hot and drip on the pads. So, what would be a good lube for the slide pins? I guess I should have also cleaned the cylinder walls better before pressing them back. Just took a shortcut while the wheel was off and didn't remove the calliper, so it was hard to clean everything. I wasn't really planning on a brake service. Just wanted my new tires put on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Take for a short two block spin. See if the rotors get real hot, and if the noise goes away. Be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 20 minutes ago, Tonik said: Take for a short two block spin. See if the rotors get real hot, and if the noise goes away. Be careful. Right. And I'm a little nervous about new tires and new brakes at the same time. heh I know the calliper releases because I can spin the wheel, pull the lever to stop it, then spin it again. I will be cautious tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfman1 Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Yes, take it easy on your test run. New tires are slick and you need to bed in your pads. Did you try spinning the wheel with the pads out? If you are getting a squeak without brakes it could be something else like a wheel bearing. I seriously doubt it due to the bike being so new, but you never know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 11 hours ago, Wolfman1 said: Yes, take it easy on your test run. New tires are slick and you need to bed in your pads. Did you try spinning the wheel with the pads out? If you are getting a squeak without brakes it could be something else like a wheel bearing. I seriously doubt it due to the bike being so new, but you never know. I will probably try that. I was looking at the ABS sensor, but that seemed to have plenty of clearance. Not sure why the manual says to remove it when taking the wheel off. I'm confident that the brake won't lock up or anything. I'm just wondering it they should be so worn after only 4500 miles. The rear pads look new since I don't use them as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Ok, so all the facts of a situation are important. Knowing the brakes wore out that fast changes things, and made me google a bit. There is a recall on the front and rear brakes on your bike it would appear. Hit Ma Kaw's website and punch in the VIN and see if it was done. http://www.kawasakininja300.com/forum/11-ninja-300-issues-troubleshooting/31593-brake-caliper-interference-recall.html https://www.kawasaki.com/OwnerSupport/SafetyRecall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 My VIN doesn't match the recall. I think the recall had to do with uneven wear. Mine wore evenly. The miles I put on the bike are mostly non-highway, so maybe that's a factor. I could probably just put an ear next to the wheel to pinpoint the source of the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfeman28 Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 23 hours ago, hiro said: The slide pins were not perfectly smooth, but not bad. My feeling is, maybe they should be lubed. My other thought is, I don't want to use the wrong lube and have it either attract dirt or thicken up, or the opposite--get hot and drip on the pads. So, what would be a good lube for the slide pins? Use Sil-glyde. I got hooked on it after working in the automotive industry. You don't need much, just a thin layer. It won't run or go anywhere you don't want it too. I use it like Franks hot sauce. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfeman28 Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Look at the pic you posted, the one aimed at the center of the caliper between the pads. Are you sure the rotor isn't rubbing on that center piece of hardware? Can't tell for sure from the pic. Edit- NVM, with your rotors it would make the noise intermittent if it was rubbing there. Edited March 9, 2016 by wolfeman28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Today I noticed the scraping at very low speed, just because I know it's there! I guess I'll get some of that Sil-glyde and pull the calliper for inspection, and also spin the wheel with it removed. Edited March 9, 2016 by hiro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 24 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said: Holy fucking shit! Will somebody PLEASE go to this guy's house and look at this goddamn bike? Damn! haha Just haven't gotten to digging into it. Rode 70 miles today, got up to 80mph, AND I was able to stop. heh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiro Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 On 3/6/2016 at 7:57 AM, wolfeman28 said: Wheel not centered? Been ignoring the brake for a while, but the thought of wheel alignment came up. The previous owner claimed to have tipped the bike over and I slid it a little, so maybe the forks are a little off? The wheel itself uses spacers and the axle has a nut on the end, so I don't think it can move too much. It doesn't have pinch bolts. Image of fork end and axle nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted April 7, 2016 Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Go for a 5-10 minute ride with no stopping (til the end) see if the rotor feels hot. you could undo the upper lower triple clamp bolts and see if the fork tubes are twisted http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tips-tech/tech-tip-front-fork-alignment 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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