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Best Beater 4WD Truck/SUV


hpfiend

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We've had a few Cherokee's, I just picked up a really clean 99 sport for $2500, they are great vehicles.

 

Check the head, buddy has one that has a cracked head or something and it's supposed to be a common problem on that particular year.

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Check the head, buddy has one that has a cracked head or something and it's supposed to be a common problem on that particular year.

 

 

This is the third we've had, the other two had over 200k when sold and never had a problem. They crack headers, but not heads.

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Guest 78novaman
I was referring to the boxy 84(?)-01 Cherokee. 4.0L 4x4 5sp if you can find it. Rare in the 98+ revamp. With a tune up you will get 22+mpg freeway. The little 4 cylinder is ok, but it has little power and not much better fuel economy. A 2dr 4.0L with a 5sp is a peppy little suv. Also parts are very inexpensive compared to the toyota.
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+1 for Toyota.

 

all the Jeeps my family/friends have had have not been all that reliable, sure the motor might run to the moon but there are a lot of other things that can/will break. plus with a Jeep, especially an older one, you'll have to carry a 50 gallon drum of gas with you or you'll never make it to a gas station.

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plus with a Jeep, especially an older one, you'll have to carry a 50 gallon drum of gas with you or you'll never make it to a gas station.

 

My 94 XJ gets around 20 mpg with mixed city and highway driving. I don't think that is to bad with a 4.0L with an auto trans. Of course that is on stock suspension and tires. I am sure that is going to go down once I get a lift and go bigger tires, but that is to be expected.

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/JeepBlackTrim.jpg

This thing looks like a junker, and sometimes it makes me want something new, but I have never owned anything more useful and dependable. So dependable, that it has become my only means of conveyance. It has the Full-time/Part-time TC, so it's kind of like having a choice b/w 2WD, AWD, Locked 4WD and Low (2.71:1 at that). Not to mention that the 4.0L acts more like an under-powered diesel in that it makes peak torque just about right off idle.

 

The Swiss Army Knife of beaters is the late model (boxy) Cherokee. They'll tow up to 5K as well, which few small SUVs can do these days.

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Hey all,

 

I know opinions are like @#$ but what truck would you say would be best?

 

Toyota Tacoma 4WD

Ford Ranger 4WD

Chevy S10 4WD

Ford Explorer 4WD

 

Others?

 

Thanks!

 

I have an 02 Explorer and with just 75K miles on it the crank sensor is bad and needs replaced, but other wise when it is driving correctly it isnt a bad beater.

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I have owned several explorers, none of them have EVER let me down, currently my 93 has 497,000 and some change on it right now. Original motor, and had the tranny replaced once at 320k. My vote would be Explorer, Ranger, or Jeep.
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Anyone have any tips on buying a used cherokee? I like the toyotas too but they are a bit pricey!

 

I assume 98-2000 are the best years? Def geting the 4.0 inline six with an automatic.

 

So far I have heard:

waterpump

cracked exhaust manifolds

cracked intake manifold

Any areas that are tell-tale of an abused car like torque boxes/a-pillars on 5.0 mustangs?

Rust prone areas?

Is a sub 100K car really worth that much more than a 105K car?

Just curious to tips from previous owners to know if I am looking at a jewel or a nightmare.

 

I found a guy that specializes in used jeeps and am going to check his place out this weekend.

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Honestly there are not any bad years. I would stick to something that is at least a '93 or newer. I believe in '93 is when they switched from the regular 4.0L to the 4.0L HO. All that really did was a few more pounds of torq. Rust prone areas are the rocker panels. It seems like every year has that problem. Many guys cut them off and weld on boxed steel. But you can also just pick up replacement panels for not very much. As for mileage, it is up to you to what you feel comfertable with. The engines are good for at least 300K if taken care of. There shouldn't be a huge price difference between a sub 100K XJ and a over 105K.

 

If you are looking, check out craigslist for good XJ's and prices. That is where I found mine and there are new ones up there every day. Also http://www.jeepforum.com is a great website and has been come my friend on fixing all the little things wrong with my XJ.

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Most desirable years would be 91+. This is when they went to the HO motor and got rid of the Renix abomination of an EFI system. More power and just a better overall system.

 

After '93ish they went to an open cooling system, which is much less of a pain in the ass than the Closed variety. Almost always when someone is having cooling trouble with a Cherokee, it's a closed system with air trapped.

 

The interior got upgraded a bit in '98 (I think, maybe '97). It's a Little less 70's looking inside.

 

2000 and 2001 are a bit less desirable than the prior years because they went to a new cylinder head design that can be crack-prone at the ends. They also seem to have issues with the #3 fuel injector overheating, but that's an easy fix. Also, these years got a Low-Pinion Dana 30 front axle as opposed to the High-Pinion on the prior years. It can make correcting for a lift a bit more costly.

 

Rust prone areas are mostly in the body, like the bottoms of the doors and fenders, but depending on how it's been kept it could be anywhere. I'd take a good look at the floors too.

 

Cracked manifold can happen, but are fairly inexpensive to replace. there are some places that sell a stainless "header" (more like a tubular manifold) for less than $200. I think cracked intakes are less common, but again an easy fix (but just OEM/Junkyard parts would do fine).

 

Water pump, probably not as big a problem as most people think. They often get replaced while someone's throwing a bunch of parts at a cooling problem that isn't the pump. They do fail eventually, but they're cheap and fairly simple to replace. These engines are known to run 200k+ with basic maintenance, so odds are you'll go through a couple of pumps in that time.

 

So, '98 or '99 would be my pick of the lot, particularly if it had the NP242 transfer case (Full-Time/Part-Time). These TC's are mostly found in Limited models, but can be had in the lower models too. They just aren't as prevalent. With these years you have the "newer" interior, High-Pinion D30, and the cylinder heads that weren't known to be so crack prone.

 

I wouldn't discount a well-cared for 200-01 either, though. You can find them with less miles, naturally, because they are newer but 90k to 130k is probably not a big deal based on how long these things typically last.

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Jeep or Toyota Hands down. I have had just about every 4x4 and the best for reliability and off road ability have been my 4runners and 4.0L XJ's. They have both been able to take a beating and keep on going. Plus both are easy to work on. I would also prefer the np231 transer case without full time 4 wheel drive because the np242 is a weaker transfer case with more parts to break.
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I would also prefer the np231 transer case without full time 4 wheel drive because the np242 is a weaker transfer case with more parts to break.

 

True. My preference for the NP242 is based mostly on the fact that I don't get into many off-road excursions and it's primary purpose for me is battling snow and basic trails when camping. Having the ability to use Full-Time when Part-Time use would be marginal (snow drifted roads for instance... in and out of dry patches where you shouldn't be in Part-Time) If you're planning to do much heavy "wheeling", especially with big tires I'd stick with the NP231 also, although for predominately on-road or mild off-road use the NP242 is plenty strong.

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