Ryan218 Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 my jeep has like no heat. its warm but no where near what it should be. my buddy has the same jeep as mine and his burns my face. mine feels cold on high and takes a good 20 mins till the inside is warm enough for me to stop shaking. it has a 180* thermostat in it but other then that nothing is different from factory crap. possibly a clogged heater core? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Bruh Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 check coolant level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 back flush the heater core and get all the crap out. if the t stat is not new, put a new one in it. i have a stack of failed ones here, opening way to soon, and not letting the engine get up to temp. make sure the coolant is up to par and full aswell. and make sure the cap is holding the proper pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted December 14, 2009 Report Share Posted December 14, 2009 back flush the heater core and get all the crap out. if the t stat is not new, put a new one in it. i have a stack of failed ones here, opening way to soon, and not letting the engine get up to temp. make sure the coolant is up to par and full aswell. and make sure the cap is holding the proper pressure +1 Spot on as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan218 Posted December 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 back flush the heater core and get all the crap out. if the t stat is not new, put a new one in it. i have a stack of failed ones here, opening way to soon, and not letting the engine get up to temp. make sure the coolant is up to par and full aswell. and make sure the cap is holding the proper pressure k thats what ive done so far minus back flushing the heater core whats the best way to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverAudiMike Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 back flush the heater core and get all the crap out. if the t stat is not new, put a new one in it. i have a stack of failed ones here, opening way to soon, and not letting the engine get up to temp. make sure the coolant is up to par and full aswell. and make sure the cap is holding the proper pressure Mine has the same problem. Backflushed the heatercore yesterday and bypassed the heater control valve. Going to try a thermostat today. Anything else we can check Rob? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 k thats what ive done so far minus back flushing the heater core whats the best way to do it? I grabbed a couple of extra lengths of heater hose (~3' of both sizes) and a couple of male/male connectors in those sizes. I pop the heater hoses loose from the t-stat housing, attach the extensions and put one or the other of them into a bucket on the floor (that why I use extensions - way easier this way). Then you just need to spray your garden hose at moderate pressure through it until the water starts to run a little clearer, then switch hoses and do it the other way. You may need to switch back and forth several times before you get all the gunk to come loose. The last one I did took about 10 gallons of water before it ran reasonably clear and it had handfuls of rust and gunk in it. Usually I stop/start frequently also to try to make it "gurgle" inside which seems to loosen up more stuff. A Tee fitting from a coolant flush kit will work in place of a male/male if you leave the cap on. Might save some cash if you already have the tees. After all that if it still doesn't work I'd say its some other cause or its plugged so bad you'll need to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay1647545503 Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 Dont buy a cheap tstat if you replace it. pay the few extra bucks and get a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistedfocus1647545489 Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 Dont buy a cheap tstat if you replace it. pay the few extra bucks and get a good one. True. Also, if the t-stat you purchase has no check valve you should drill about an 1/8" hole in it and install it at the 12 o'clock position. I have a Hypertech one in mine and had to drill the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 15, 2009 Report Share Posted December 15, 2009 k thats what ive done so far minus back flushing the heater core whats the best way to do it? pull both hoses from the water pump and housing. take the hose and rinse the hell out of it both ways. Mine has the same problem. Backflushed the heatercore yesterday and bypassed the heater control valve. Going to try a thermostat today. Anything else we can check Rob? sure your not having a blend door control issue? i have seen a few like yours with that issue aswell get the engine up to temp, and feel both heater hoses with the heat on full blast. one should be hotter then the other. if one is real cold, you dont have good flow. if both are hot, then start checking blend door issue's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Passat's have a problem with the "lifetime" coolant gumming up the heater core after a few years...I believe it's a function of the glycol turning to gel. Seems that no matter how good the coolant is, you need to replace it anyway. A guy on passatworld.com talked about how he set up a similar hose setup like Rob recommends, though he first put CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) in the "in" fitting first and let it sit for about 40 minutes, then backflushes for at least 10 gallons. The pink globs and dirt that came out were scary to say the least. Heater blew red hot afterwards. IT'S VERY RISKY, but this guy's logic was that the CLR was safe enough not to eat away at the aluminum heater core, or if it fails (leaks) he will be getting a new core anyway. I believe it's worked out very well for this guy so far after about a year of running the car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Removed Posted December 16, 2009 Report Share Posted December 16, 2009 Passat's have a problem with the "lifetime" coolant gumming up the heater core after a few years...I believe it's a function of the glycol turning to gel. Seems that no matter how good the coolant is, you need to replace it anyway. A guy on passatworld.com talked about how he set up a similar hose setup like Rob recommends, though he first put CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover) in the "in" fitting first and let it sit for about 40 minutes, then backflushes for at least 10 gallons. The pink globs and dirt that came out were scary to say the least. Heater blew red hot afterwards. IT'S VERY RISKY, but this guy's logic was that the CLR was safe enough not to eat away at the aluminum heater core, or if it fails (leaks) he will be getting a new core anyway. I believe it's worked out very well for this guy so far after about a year of running the car... that why i use a flush chemical, that wont eat aluminum, and most time, the flush has to be done twice...i have been doing a bunch here lately. i normally have 2 or more hours in a major flush. i used to power flush (using water and air, until i found some plugged up solid ones, and blew them apart. which is never a good idea to call a customer and tell them , well the heater core didnt live thru the flushing, and you show them the old one, and you can clearly see it was blown apart..lol. its one thing if you under cover small pin holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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