wnaplay Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 I had my bike running the other night in the driveway(98 cbr900rr). It was idling at around 2k just idling for awhile. It started to overheat. It was a cool night (thursday). I shut it off and turned the key back on to see if the fan was kicked on. It was. Could just sitting and idling have caused it to overheat? It was running maybe 25 mins. Also the rivets or whatever holds the floating rotos together on the front of the bike have started chattering as the wheel spins. The rivets are not tight any more and the rotor itself moves a little. Not on both sides just the one. Can this be tightened in any way, is this a wear indicator that the rotors need replaced, or do they just need replaced because the happens over time? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 dont know about the rotors, but as for your engine getting hot yes it can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Cool. Thanks I thought that was probably the cause. I started it while I was in the garage working and didnt realize how long it was out there. I seen it start to overheat and was able to get it shut off immediately. Thanks. Anyone know about the rotors? Unsafe to ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Uhmmmm.....Floating rotors are SUPPOSED to float. How much they float is another story. If you have one side floating more than the other it could indicate a problem. Either the buttons or the spring washers behind them could be worn. Really, you haven't given anyone enough information to know for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 i think that the rotor issue is too much "feel" needed than you could possibly explain on a forum. get someone near you (reynoldsburg near cbus yes?) who knows what they are doing to check it out. plenty of people in the area... i wouldn't take it to a dealer, i would say 90% they are just going to say "you need to replace it and you need us to do it for you..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 It all feels fine. It clicks when I am rolling it around the garage. I assume it floats because it is in the grommets "floating" not really attached to anything. I would think this would need to be a rigid fitment or else it would very quickly wear out if it were to actually have movement(play). I dont think they mean floating as in free spinning or what you typically think of as floating. I do however feel the clicks but its much more audible than you can feel. If it were suppose to move, after a few stops the moving rotor would completely snap whatever is holding it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 It all feels fine. It clicks when I am rolling it around the garage. I assume it floats because it is in the grommets "floating" not really attached to anything. I would think this would need to be a rigid fitment or else it would very quickly wear out if it were to actually have movement(play). I dont think they mean floating as in free spinning or what you typically think of as floating. I do however feel the clicks but its much more audible than you can feel. If it were suppose to move, after a few stops the moving rotor would completely snap whatever is holding it in place.If you're looking at your bike from the front, a floating rotor should move left to right or right to left. That's what floating means.Your particular issue could be several things. Worn buttons, bad washers, bent carrier...really anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnaplay Posted March 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Any of which is fixable without replacing the rotor? Safe to ride? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Dude, take the wheel off and if in doubt, take it to HNW and ask them to scope it out really quick. Probably drop a $20 spot for peace of mind.Otherwise, floating rotors sound aweful when moving them around. Just don't take it as a reason to keep riding it. You're probably worrying for nothing, but if you cannot say for sure, take to someone who can...Most OEM rotors are not full floaters anyways... Something like a Braking rotor sounds like the rotor is about to fall off at any time...If it is bad, buy new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 7, 2009 Report Share Posted March 7, 2009 Otherwise, floating rotors sound aweful when moving them around. I had a set of EBC's on the bike we won the Fasttrax Endurance Series with on 2005. They sounded sooooo ugly rolling the bike around, but damn you could go deeeeeeeep into the corners on the front brake... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) I had some loose buttons that made too much noise so I took off the rotor, put it on top of a vise. I then found a car wheel stud that had a round head, kinda like a ball pean hammer, and used it and a hammer to tighten up the buttons. Worked like a charm.Now that I think about it I actually used a tapered lug nut, a bolt and a washer. As I tightened down the lug nut it spread the back of the button.Good Luck Edited March 8, 2009 by phugitive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fonzie Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 His bike's a '98. Were they doing floating rotors back then? I thought that was a newer thingNot to say he or a PO couldn't have swapped 'em, but I mean if we're talkin' OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAMBUSA Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Floating or not, they shouldn't be moving like you are describing. DO NOT ride it like that till you get it checked out.Started to overheat or was showing hot on your gauge? You really dont want to kill the power to the fan when it is hot. That will cause it to go from hot to boiling. It's spring, good time for a flush and fill with Engine Ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 I had some loose buttons that made too much noise so I took off the rotor, put it on top of a vise. I then found a car wheel stud that had a round head, kinda like a ball pean hammer, and used it and a hammer to tighten up the buttons. Worked like a charm.Ahhh yes....if it moves, hammer it. If it doesn't move hammer it.I'm sure its EXACTLY like its supposed to be now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) The bike I did it on was a 94 gsxr 750.Now that I think about it I actually used a tapered lug nut, a bolt and a washer. As I tightened down the lug nut it spread the back of the button.Good Luck Edited March 8, 2009 by phugitive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Ahhh yes....if it moves, hammer it. If it doesn't move hammer it.I'm sure its EXACTLY like its supposed to be now Well it can't be as bad as the other guys on here straightening warped rotors with a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Well it can't be as bad as the other guys on here straightening warped rotors with a hammer.Nahhhh....cant be as bad as that.I'm sure the rotor is perfect now.Good luck with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Nahhhh....cant be as bad as that.I'm sure the rotor is perfect now.Good luck with that.Yes actually it is and I was very pleased with the way it turned out. Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catman Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 ( 2 cent smiley goes here ) 98 those should be floating ! Yes, they will make more noise as they age, that doesn't mean they aren't good and usable. best suggestion so far was to pull the wheel and let a tech. check it out for peace of mind !I've had them rattle like a tamberinie and not be bad !Don't smack it with a hammer !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako777 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 im not sure what the recommended idle setting is but 2000 seems pretty high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Everybody has to do whats best for them. I did not like listening to the sound of the loose buttons so I fixed them. It was no big deal for me, as the buttons are nothing more than big rivets. I tightened them up a bit and the slow speed rattle went away. If repairs like this are beyond a persons understanding or ability then they should have a " tech " look at them. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 ( 2 cent smiley goes here ) I've had them rattle like a tamberinie and not be bad !Don't smack it with a hammer !!!Oooops....too late.Everybody has to do whats best for them. I did not like listening to the sound of the loose buttons so I fixed them. It was no big deal for me, as the buttons are nothing more than big rivets. I tightened them up a bit and the slow speed rattle went away. If repairs like this are beyond a persons understanding or ability then they should have a " tech " look at them. Good LuckI'd say this "repair" was beyond your ability. In reality, you didn't "fix" anything, you eliminated a sound.In reality, the buttons are not "big rivets". They're more like a spacer that allow the rotor to slide on the carrier. Now you have reduced the distance they can slide. Possible results are now that the rotor could now be too far left, or too far right. If its far enough off, the rotor can now move your pads back far enough that you'll have reduced braking on the front.I'd say you're the one that needs the "luck". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedogg624 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 im not sure what the recommended idle setting is but 2000 seems pretty highon the r6 idle is recommended to be between ~1500-2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phugitive Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 In reality, the buttons are not "big rivets". They're more like a spacer that allow the rotor to slide on the carrier. Now you have reduced the distance they can slide. Possible results are now that the rotor could now be too far left, or too far right. If its far enough off, the rotor can now move your pads back far enough that you'll have reduced braking on the front.Not to argue or anything but the buttons are exactly like big speciality rivet. One side is large the other side has a washer and then is crimped. The button, because of the large head and washer, will stay centered on the carrier.Now anyone who has ever worked on a disk brake system knows that the brake caliper floats to adjust itself to the rotor. That being said, if the rotor was off to the left or right the caliper would simply move to accomodate it.Yes I need all the luck I can get. Have a nice day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd#43 Posted March 8, 2009 Report Share Posted March 8, 2009 Not to argue or anything but the buttons are exactly like big speciality rivet. One side is large the other side has a washer and then is crimped. The button, because of the large head and washer, will stay centered on the carrier.Now anyone who has ever worked on a disk brake system knows that the brake caliper floats to adjust itself to the rotor. That being said, if the rotor was off to the left or right the caliper would simply move to accomodate it.Yes I need all the luck I can get. Have a nice day!Centered on the carrier? Left to right, or radially? If you squish the button too tight the rotor will not float. Sounds to me like that's what you've got going on.Not to pick nits, but the last time I checked, the calipers on a bike don't "float". They're not like a car. The pads offer a small amount of float, but its relative to the amount of fluid that the master cylinder can displace. If the rotor alignment is off so much that it moves the piston back too far, that caliper won't grab the rotor - period. Could be fun when you really need to stop.My guess is you've got the potential to need more than luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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