AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Ok, so while I am a noted Ford hater, I get wood for notchbacks. I would love a nice notch to go out and beat the dogshit out of some of you trolls. I have a possible trade situation for my Ducati Monster, but I need to know what this is worth. Here is his listing: The Notch: 1989 5.0 black Notch 140,000 on chassis Motor: 1991 302 bored over (306) CRANK: forged crank polished PISTONS: custom castings from Badger (hypertetic alloy) LIFTERS: crane cams fast bleed roller ROCKERS: crane cams roller 1.6 TIMING SET: double roller CAM: crane not sure duration OIL PUMP: svo high volume aluminum casting cold air intake routed in fender. T5 five speed tranny with Ford Racing clutch set and fly wheel. GEARS: 3.73 CHASSIS: frame tied SUPENSION: eiback lowering springs and shocks all new tie rod ends. Weld drag lites with 10"" slicks and 3" runners. EXHAUST: shorty headers, off road H-pipe, magna flow mufflers with dumps The notch is currently undergoing a clutch set install, the tranny just got back from Brians Transmission shop with a clean bill of health with all new seals installed. The mustang is very fast with plenty of torque. May need rear control arm bushings. I was going to go with tubular with poly bushings. Summit has sets for under $300 for both upper and lower. http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/Graveshaker/img1290892885998.jpg http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/Graveshaker/img1290892885572.jpg http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/Graveshaker/img1290648423760.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evolved8 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I have always loved them to. Nice looking cars. From what I have gathered they do hold a pretty good value, However you have to check them out alot are known for underside rust etc. You might want to get with Chad (On3Performance) as he does this for a living and knows his mustangs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 3500-4500 depending how well that paint cleans up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 3500-4500 depending how well that paint cleans up. From his mouth: Very slight rust above drivers rear tire. It hasn't showed it's face yet. One half dollar sized spot on drivers floor board (not a hole just starting to rust). I've been on my back under this car for a while working on the trans. Very clean undercarriage. No visible rust on the exterior. Looks as though the person who painted it last did not wet sand and buff, It does have orange peel. I never cared about the orange peel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicktcfcsb Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 FUCK YEAH DO IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Look for rust under the strut towers and right behind the front wheel wells. Also check the torque boxes were the rear upper control arms mount to the car. If you go to look at it I will go with to help you out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Look for rust under the strut towers and right behind the front wheel wells. Also check the torque boxes were the rear upper control arms mount to the car. If you go to look at it I will go with to help you out a bit. Sweet deal, I would appreciate it. I don't wanna end up with some shit bucket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Sweet deal, I would appreciate it. I don't wanna end up with some shit bucket. I TOTALLY understand since it happened to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99BlownYellowGT Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 3500-4500 depending how well that paint cleans up. Good luck with that......everyone in the world thinks their notch is worth 10k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Good luck with that......everyone in the world thinks their notch is worth 10k +1, these go for insane prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Good luck with that......everyone in the world thinks their notch is worth 10k Just the junk ones, I have seen some REALLY nice ones go for 6-6.5k Car is 5 lug as well, one thing you wont have to swap out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 Sweet Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Carbureted? Maybe I missed it. Hows the interior? Does the guy have any clean pics of the car? Looks like it sat in a barn for 5 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Good luck with that......everyone in the world thinks their notch is worth 10k It apears to need the hood and front bumper painted, It only has a 306 with un spray friendly pistons, unknown cam and a week link t5. Only nice thing is if it is realy rust free. I sure as heck would not go above 5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN1647545504 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Good luck with that......everyone in the world thinks their notch is worth 10k That is true. Notches normally sell a lot faster and better than GT's or regular LX's. They do hold a bit better value than other fox body Mustangs and they are more desirable. I would say 4-5K MAX. From what you are saying it only has some bolt ons, no aluminum heads, stock intake etc. A similar car to this with heads and intake sold for for $6K on stangbangerz in the last week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Probably covered but how much power do the T5s typically hold, and what is the common upgrade path when staying with a manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN1647545504 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 You will be fine with the T5. You can break them with 300hp or they can hold 500hp for a while. It all depends. If you do break one, the rebuilt kit is $200 or you can find a T5 all day for about $300. Don't worry about it too much. It will hold the mods you have + 100 shot easy if it is fresh like the guy said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckeye1647545503 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 a stock 302 will break a t5 upgrade is a txo 500 or 600 or t56 if you want to run more gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEMAN1647545504 Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 a stock 302 will break a t5 upgrade is a txo 500 or 600 or t56 if you want to run more gear NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. People that break T5's behind stock 302's are the same people that don't know how to adjust an aftermarket shifter for a T5 and break shift forks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Why would anyone put hypereutectic pistons in a car with a forged crank? Almost sounds to me like someone didn't plan a build very well. If he skimped on the pistons then what else did he skimp on that you don't know about? Also, not knowing what cam is in it would worry me too. Unless you're planning on swapping it out for a known one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schmuckingham Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I think some of you are getting carried away with what Gabe wants. I beleive this is a SOLID car to start with for anyone not familiar with Mustangs, it has a decent body and the regular bolt ons that almost every Mustang is sold with. Just go look at it and decide for yourself Gabe, these cars are very fun aand cheap to play around with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Thanks for all the responses. Ill see, the guy seems interested in the Duc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superstangOH Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 3500-4k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OJdidit1738 Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 I would go for it!! looks like a solid car, if the frames tied through the floor you may want to pull the carpet up to check and see its all welded and painted and the front floor pans as well, I just traded my hatch mustang for a coupe and could not be happier!! also if you want a 4 inch harwood pin on i have one for it for 150 bucks, good luck with getting it, its a badass car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWW$HEEET Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Latest email from him, sounds shady: I'm willing to go further with the deal but have to finish installing the new clutch and flywheel set. I only have limited time and opportunity to work on the car because of excessive work hours. I have the mustang over a friends house in his pole barn where we work on it when we have time. I got a strange vibration after a launch and initially thought it was the harmonic balancer. We installed a new balancer and still got a vibration. We then examined the car and discovered a cracked bell housing so we assumed this was causing the vibration. We swapped a good bell on the trans, bolted everything back up (without removing clutch and flywheel). To our surprise, the vibration was still present. So now we've come to the conclusion that the vibration must be between the pressure plate and flywheel. Lesson learned to check everything while trans is out. We've logically narrowed it down to clutch assembly and or flywheel based on parts replaced and the fact that the vibration is felt while standing still eliminating any other component. We've theorized one of the fingers in the pressure plate could be lose, dislodged spring on clutch disk or dislodged or loose flywheel weight. So back under the car I will have to go to remove the clutch assembly, inspect and replace any parts that's out of place. My biggest regret was not removing clutch assembly the first time and assuming all was good with the replaced bell. I know this could sound scary but when it's all said and done, the mustang would have a new harmonic balancer, replaced bell, new seals on trans, new rear main seal and what ever needs replacing in the clutch assembly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKilbourne Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. People that break T5's behind stock 302's are the same people that don't know how to adjust an aftermarket shifter for a T5 and break shift forks. Powershifting breaks gears in these. I've seen bad forks, but mine went on a 4K upshift from 2nd to 3rd. Not powershifting. Third gear was missing 3/4 of the teeth. The transmissions suck. People who like them can keep them. Give me a G-Force T-5 and I'd be fine. There was a guy on here years ago that said that the T-45s were great as well. Then I heard him drive. Of course he wouldn't have issues when he was on and off the gas the way he was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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