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ITT: Notchback content. Whats it worth?


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Latest email from him, sounds shady:

 

I'm willing to go further with the deal but have to finish installing the new clutch and flywheel set. I only have limited time and opportunity to work on the car because of excessive work hours. I have the mustang over a friends house in his pole barn where we work on it when we have time. I got a strange vibration after a launch and initially thought it was the harmonic balancer. We installed a new balancer and still got a vibration. We then examined the car and discovered a cracked bell housing so we assumed this was causing the vibration. We swapped a good bell on the trans, bolted everything back up (without removing clutch and flywheel). To our surprise, the vibration was still present.

So now we've come to the conclusion that the vibration must be between the pressure plate and flywheel. Lesson learned to check everything while trans is out.

We've logically narrowed it down to clutch assembly and or flywheel based on parts replaced and the fact that the vibration is felt while standing still eliminating any other component. We've theorized one of the fingers in the pressure plate could be lose, dislodged spring on clutch disk or dislodged or loose flywheel weight. So back under the car I will have to go to remove the clutch assembly, inspect and replace any parts that's out of place. My biggest regret was not removing clutch assembly the first time and assuming all was good with the replaced bell.

 

I know this could sound scary but when it's all said and done, the mustang would have a new harmonic balancer, replaced bell, new seals on trans, new rear main seal and what ever needs replacing in the clutch assembly

 

Sounds pretty straight forward and thats good, hopefully they can get it all fixed and done for you and do the deal

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I wonder if they put a 28 oz flywheel on instead of a 50 or vice versa...

 

FWIW I loved my old 5.0 coupe and miss it to this day. I sold it to buy the z06 as I didn't have garage space/driveway for 4 cars- the z06 is better no doubt but I miss messing with it and it sounded better imho but it was Fing loud though and I tried all sorts of mufflers and couldn't quiet it down.

 

I sold this car:

 

for 8300.00 IIRC and it took 9 months to do it so I don't think it was worth much more sadly... most guys wanted to pay 5-6500.

 

Here is some more info for price comparison...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2697057/1990-ford-mustang

 

Notes that may be helpful:

They had forged crank and pistons from the factory up until 1993.

That car is going to drone like a sonofaB@#% without tailpipes- the tailpipes are not cheap, possibly can't fit those tires on it with them, and the passenger side hanger is about 50.00 alone.

See if it still has the quad shocks installed flipped. You do need them even though 80% of the internet will tell you don't but themselves have wheel hop issues they can't understand

Check the rear deck lid and front floor pans for rust

Check the condition of the torque boxes (rear lower control arm mounts)

See what sort of clutch cable and quadrant/adjuster setup is on the car- don't worry if the clutch is stiff as hell that can be fixed and is very common as most people don't know what they are doing in that department and if it has a non adj factory cable or Max motorsports with a quality firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant that is a good sign- also if the ashtray works chances are the guy is serious about it.

look at the idle air control motor if its shiny as new and there is a spacer in there save for a tune... get ready for cold temp idle issues (hanging/surging/etc) he will likely have it warmed up for you "out of consideration" hehe

I would not pay more than 5 for that car and probably not more than 4-4500 considering what is out there for less.

 

HTH

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Do it, if he's doing a new clutch, and flywheel also and the vibes go away then you'll know. You should be all over this like a College freshman in a 4LOKO warehouse. It looks like a solid bolt on car that will take much abuse.

 

Forged pistons in the 5.0's went away in 91 or 92 IIRC. Depending on info source.

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I paid $5k for mine and it was just a roller. Granted the body is mint, its been painted but someone spent some time on it, but it is 100% solid, zero rust. Could of had it a complete 5.0 running car and had ~6k in it. With that being said, I would just really check like they said the strut tower area and where it meets the body. Also the floor boards on the front area that normally fall to pieces on a lot of them. Thats what I always looked for on them besides for the obvious if its running and driving. I think if its not rusted out and its a running/driving car, $3-3500 would be fair. Hell I would buy it if I saw it up for 3k
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