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Place to expand center bore on wheels


greg1647545532

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Is the center hole that important or can it just be drilled with a regular metal hole saw and a drill press?

 

If anything like this were to be used it would need to be a large step drill to ensure that the new drilling remains concentric with the current hub bore, however I would find a machine shop with a lathe large enough to handle rims as derek mentioned.

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Is the center hole that important or can it just be drilled with a regular metal hole saw and a drill press?

 

The lugs are basically just there to hold the wheel on in the plane parallel to the ground. They are not there to transfer the massive amounts of force transfered from the tire to the wheel to the vehicles suspension. That is the job of the wheel to the knuckle via the hub bore on the wheel to the hub seat on the knuckle. So the hub bore should either be the same size, or larger and use hub-centric rings. Of course the lugs do take some forces anyways, but when you don't do a hub-centric wheel or ring they take more forces in directions they were not originally intended for. You can get away with not doing a hub-centric wheel or ring, but it's not ideal.

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Do you know if the car is lug centric or hub centric?

 

I honestly don't know what type of lug nuts Mazda uses. I know Toyota uses stupid flat lug nuts that pretty much makes them hub centric. Honda/Acura uses acorn lug nuts that can effectively center the wheel, but they still consider them hub-centric. That's the style of lug nut I'll have to use for these wheels. If they were regular 45 degree tapered nuts I would just ream the wheels out with a drill, but since they're the acorn nuts I feel like I should do it right. Especially since this is a family hauler.

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The lugs are basically just there to hold the wheel on in the plane parallel to the ground. They are not there to transfer the massive amounts of force transfered from the tire to the wheel to the vehicles suspension. That is the job of the wheel to the knuckle via the hub bore on the wheel to the hub seat on the knuckle. So the hub bore should either be the same size, or larger and use hub-centric rings. Of course the lugs do take some forces anyways, but when you don't do a hub-centric wheel or ring they take more forces in directions they were not originally intended for. You can get away with not doing a hub-centric wheel or ring, but it's not ideal.

 

The lugs also generate friction between the wheel and the rotor/hub. That friction is enough to prevent the wheel from moving around and takes the load off the lugs. Think of it like clamping two bricks together with a couple of C clamps. You won't be able to slide the bricks around, but it's not because the C clamps are preventing lateral movement. They're just squishing the bricks together and letting the natural friction do the work.

 

Not really disagreeing with your overall point about it not being ideal, but I don't think the little centering nub in the middle of the hub actually carries much load.

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Wheel medic won't do it. Go with Dereks suggestion and take them to a machine shop.

 

They actually said OK. $50 a wheel though. That seems high, but I haven't found anyone else that will do it yet. They showed me the lathe though, it'll definitely do the job and do it right.

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They actually said OK. $50 a wheel though. That seems high, but I haven't found anyone else that will do it yet. They showed me the lathe though, it'll definitely do the job and do it right.

 

Are there tabs on the hub on the vehicle? If so, just grind the tabs off. We have the same problem when putting on other wheels on the b-series pickups.

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They actually said OK. $50 a wheel though. That seems high, but I haven't found anyone else that will do it yet. They showed me the lathe though, it'll definitely do the job and do it right.

 

I wasn't thinking when I posted the reply. Is Wheel Medics price with Mount and Balance, or are the wheels loose? Typically they charge $50 a wheel + M&B.

 

We can do the wheels for you on the lathe also at $40 a wheel + plus M&B if needed. Thats a $40 savings. They have more setup time with a tracer lathe, and will have to make a pattern. We'll just chuck the wheel in the lathe and bore it with a boring bar.

 

Drop them one evening have them back the next morning.

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