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New pads and Rotors


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Have you ever had experience with drilled/slotted rotors? I'm not arguing, but I always see you saying they're shit.

 

Mine are 5 years old, and have no cracks, and are not warped, on my heavy ass truck, with lots of hard, hard miles. My brakes never fade, ever, but did bad after a good slam on stock brakes. Mine were not cheap by any means, but I have had 0 problems with them.

 

Pads make a hell of a difference...

 

I laugh at anyone who wants to argue that drilled/slotted rotors are better than blanks for anything that's not a dedicated track car.

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Have you ever had experience with drilled/slotted rotors? I'm not arguing, but I always see you saying they're shit.

 

Mine are 5 years old, and have no cracks, and are not warped, on my heavy ass truck, with lots of hard, hard miles. My brakes never fade, ever, but did bad after a good slam on stock brakes. Mine were not cheap by any means, but I have had 0 problems with them.

 

I have zero experience with "drilled" rotors, nor would I care to. I did larger slotted 2 piece lightweight rotors on the A4 though. My issue with "drilled" rotors is simple, it can only "hurt" and cannot help anything. To me, it's akin to adding a 50lb ricer wing to a Civic, and you are better off stock nearly every time.

 

OEM Porsche rotors have very small -->CAST<-- holes, which run along the reinforced veins to aid in cooling. 99% of aftermarket rotors people acquire are little more than improperly drilled blanks which "look cool" and just hurt the rotors ability to sink heat properly before cracking.

 

Few people will push their brakes hard enough to even notice or care, but I am very hard on brakes even in street driving. Once you've cracked a OEM solid rotor from street driving, or boiled fluid, you tend to care about brakes. ;)

 

If it works for you, then by all means, enjoy. I enjoy my cars' suspension and brakes nearly every day, and use them, clouds of brake dust and all. :cool:

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Another favorite reference..

 

 

Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

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They look good and as long as you stay out of puddles should not rust too bad.

 

I run NAPA blank rotors ($23) and R compound pads on my MR2 at the track. I care about brakes and would not run drilled or slotted at a track. I have boiled fluid and had brake fade (different pads) at the track, so brakes matter to me!

If the OP only paid $150 for rotors, they are cheap, hope they hold up.

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My stock rotors cracked on the Camaro, both front and rear. I guess I drive hard, hell the front have cracked again. I think I boiled the fluid once because it got better again after I flushed it out. I'm not sure what I'll buy next but it won't be the shit OP has.
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I have cross-drilled rotors on my Passat, but only because they were cheap cheap CHEAP. I bought Hawk street pads and the Passat has put on over 40k of year-round aggressive street driving without any problems/cracks/warping. I do like the look of cross drilled, but I got all 4 for less than 100 shipped a few years back.

 

I agree that:

1) BRAKE PADS are more important to proper stopping power than super-cool rotors, and

2) For all of the cracking problems cheaper cross-drilled rotors have had in the past, it's just not worth the risk to go cheaper in the future.

 

That said, I still like the look. Many happy miles to you regardless.

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good news is Im not driving a 1990 car with 7 inch rotors "boiling Fluid", yeah I guess I'm no better than a honda civic with a 50lb wing. It's something that I have come to grip with. Thanks for the break lesson everyone, I feel so stupid I can hardly keep the gun out of mouth......but I did. Thanks again so much

 

Oh and sorry I thought this was a site that I could post a mod that I felt looked nice without getting hammered for it. I did not ask for advice as I already did the mod, Not everyone is a Professional Race car driver.

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good news is Im not driving a 1990 car with 7 inch rotors "boiling Fluid", yeah I guess I'm no better than a honda civic with a 50lb wing. It's something that I have come to grip with. Thanks for the break lesson everyone, I feel so stupid I can hardly keep the gun out of mouth......but I did. Thanks again so much

 

Oh and sorry I thought this was a site that I could post a mod that I felt looked nice without getting hammered for it. I did not ask for advice as I already did the mod, Not everyone is a Professional Race car driver.

 

Get some thicker skin and quit bitching, welcome to CR.

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I like how people say f1 or nascar doesn't do it. The brakes on those cars cost more than my truck, and anyone else in this threads car together. It's not exactly a machined hunk of cast iron like oe stuff is.

 

I would get a set of rotors from the dealer more than once a year when the truck was a completely stock 4.8L. These have been on for almost 5 years, and no problems.

 

I think this is the problem with most drilled and slotted rotors that crack/warp.

http://www.baer.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=323:rotor-seasoning&catid=209:technical-information&Itemid=4

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I like how people say f1 or nascar doesn't do it. The brakes on those cars cost more than my truck, and anyone else in this threads car together. It's not exactly a machined hunk of cast iron like oe stuff is.

 

Precisely, you don't want holes punched through a cast medium if you can help it. Differences in the medium's density mean imperfections in the casting (i.e. drilled holes) can cause cracking. Granted, today's manufacturing processes are improved. But if you don't think there are density differences within a casting, pick up a new rotor and check the outer edge. You'll find a spot where material wad milled away to balance the rotor. They didn't do it because it was egg-shaped.

 

And for good braking performance, you want as much heat capacity as possible. Rotors are essentially heat capacitors. They charge up on the entry to a turn, but they don't dump that heat until the following straight. So you need to be able to hold a lot of heat. For a simple casting, that means as much material as possible. Removing material doesn't help.

 

You're right, NASCAR and F1 have rotors made of cash. But that only reinforces the point that holes are not necessary these days. We have to deal with chunks of cast iron so we have to take the imperfections of that material into account. And compromising it's structure is not the way to improve it.

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Oh and sorry I thought this was a site that I could post a mod that I felt looked nice without getting hammered for it. I did not ask for advice as I already did the mod, Not everyone is a Professional Race car driver.

 

As above, welcome to CR. We speak our minds. It's up to you, however, to decide how much what we say matters to you. If these are light duty brakes and you got them because you thought they *looked* good and didn't get them for performance, then what does it matter?

 

I must be getting old, because I actually appreciate the fact that everyone will be honest. I like to know that when I post something I'm not going to get a bunch of empty pats on the back.

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Stock brakes on a porsche at the auto show.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s316/brent1976_photos/2011-03-19114255-2.jpg

 

 

OEM Porsche rotors have very small -->CAST<-- holes, which run along the reinforced veins to aid in cooling. 99% of aftermarket rotors people acquire are little more than improperly drilled blanks which "look cool" and just hurt the rotors ability to sink heat properly before cracking.

 

 

 

Maybe you can bring this back from the dead one more time!

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Well if anyone cares Vette's with the Z51 package, new Gran Sports, Z06s, and Zr1s have holes in the rotors, even the uplevel Vettes with the Carbon brakes package. They are cast that way, and I've also seen them crack. Pretty sure Doc's SL600 he just got rid of had holes too.

 

I don't really care about this topic, but I'll just stir the pot. I wouldn't recommend cheap drilled rotors to somebody looking for a braking "upgrade", but if you buy the high quality parts it will work good.

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