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anyone got a chain breaker


John

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that i could use in the next week or so? i realize that some may be wary of loaning out tools as sometimes they dont find their way back. id be more than willing to leave you a deposit or something, or maybe even just use it right there in front of you. shouldnt take more than an hour or so to change the chain and sprockets...

LMK

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that i could use in the next week or so? i realize that some may be wary of loaning out tools as sometimes they dont find their way back. id be more than willing to leave you a deposit or something, or maybe even just use it right there in front of you. shouldnt take more than an hour or so to change the chain and sprockets...

LMK

You got a 4in. grinder ? Just cut it off.

The press tool and the rivet tool are nice to have though !

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How easy is it to do what? To go from a clip type to a rivet type?

I am lazy so ill just copy the post i put on the CBR forum the other day on the topic..

You dont need any special tools to change the chain. Take a grinder (I used a electric hard stone wheel, but you can use a air die grinder with the proper grinding media) grind the rivets off the face of one link. You just need one side, dont need to grind both. I started to use a punch and hammer. You can also use a chisel. You need some thing long if you want to drive through from the other side of the bike. I tried that and gave up when I realized I had access to a air hammer. I put a chisel bit on the hammer and it took two seconds to pop off the plate. Push the other half of the link out and you are done, the chain will come out.

Some advice. Keep tension on the chain or atleast keep the link you are cutting near or mated with the rear sprocket. It gives it more stability and wont let the chain move around. When you have the rivets ground off I would suggest then loosening the axle and both chain adjusters. Then use whatever chisel/punch/hammer and smack the link apart. Having tension on the chain when you pop it apart may make parts fly or snap around so be careful.

I have a clip type masterlink, just make sure it is pointed the correct direction and it is good procedure to safety wire it just incase.

To install your chain trim it down, measure twice and cut once or else you may end up with extra master links which will give the chain more weak points. Run the chain through the frame onto the sprockets, install your master link and check for proper chain slack and alignment. Measure with a tape measure from the swingarm pivot to the axel on both sides. Make sure the measurement is spot on. Dont just rely on the marks on the tensioners as they could be off. Spin the rear tire by hand to make sure it doesnt make a lot of noise, as this is a sign of improper chain alignment. Ride the bike and make sure that it doesnt get really noisy at speed before you button everything up. Chains are easy once you do them a couple times.

If you dont want to have a shop install your chain but you dont want a clip type link, and you dont want to buy a chain rivet tool i would suggest buying a rivet and a clip type link. Install the chain with the clip link and ride it to a shop to have them replace the clip with a rivet link.

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I have used the air grinder method and air chisel method in the past and prefer the R&K tool. Sure it was something like $120 but the right tool for the job is a great thing.

As for master links I have heard the of the clip links coming off. Never seen it myself! In the past I have done the clip and the rivet. Two friends have a clip and my bike is a rivet link. 2 reasons. 1- I bought the tool so I'm gonna use it. 2- The chain came with a rivet link so that's what went on. Personally I say do it with the rivet link because you will have peace of mind.

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I just did this a few weeks ago and just used a dremel to grind off the rivets on the old chain, and used a screw-type master link on the new. They are not not what you think, there are no screws involved once it is finished. It is pretty much a riveted master link, but you don't need any special tools, it just uses nuts to mushroom the heads on the rivets. Every review I read about them were good and people had 8, 10 thousand miles on them with no problem. We'll see how it goes. If anyone uses one, just make sure you use the spacers like you would a riveted link, I learned that the hard way. Had to buy a second one because I cranked the first too much and put it on a bind. Used the spacers the second time and everything is good now.

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