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Anyone know how to work on DLP TV's?


bmwohio

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I have a Samsung DLP TV HL-S4266W, and it was pointing to all the signs of the lamp being bad (I haven't replaced since I bought the TV about 4 years ago). Well, I got the lamp assembly today, installed it EXACTLY like the Samsung website said to, and it turns off after 5 minutes and all three lights flash on the power button, just like it did before I switched lamp assembly.

 

Can anyone help me with this? I'm stuck!

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Did you check the cooling fan for the bulb? If it's bad or clogged with dust, the bulb won't cool properly and trip the thermal protection circuit.

 

ok, thanks I'll check......

 

 

 

fan works, and it's not that dusty....should I hit it with some compressed air, or will that potentially damage something?

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does it randomly click when you try and turn it on?

 

makes all the same sounds that it has in the past, so no, no 'random' clicks, but it does click when I turn it on like usual....I have picture and sound for 5 minutes, and then it goes out each time. I keep turning the thing on and it keeps doing that over and over, no decreased picture quality or anything

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I have the exact same TV. Doing the exact same thing. I changed the bulb and no difference.

 

Here are a few things I learned from searching the web:

 

There was also a problem with this TV where the switch that triggers when you close the access to the bulb (make sure its getting triggered properly), or do what I did and just cut, splice, and twist the wires together so you don't have to worry about the switch being the problem.

 

I still have the same issue. already checked the fan for dust. It was good. also tested the temp sensor, it was good. the only thing left is the color wheel, or the likely chance it was the ballast.

 

I went ahead and bought a 55" LED, but still have the TV with hopes of fixing it some day. My next thing is to get a ballast. Please post back if you figure something out!

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I have the exact same TV. Doing the exact same thing. I changed the bulb and no difference.

 

Here are a few things I learned from searching the web:

 

There was also a problem with this TV where the switch that triggers when you close the access to the bulb (make sure its getting triggered properly), or do what I did and just cut, splice, and twist the wires together so you don't have to worry about the switch being the problem.

 

I still have the same issue. already checked the fan for dust. It was good. also tested the temp sensor, it was good. the only thing left is the color wheel, or the likely chance it was the ballast.

 

I went ahead and bought a 55" LED, but still have the TV with hopes of fixing it some day. My next thing is to get a ballast. Please post back if you figure something out!

 

:dumb:

 

Well thanks for posting the steps you took already.....shit! I didn't really want to buy a new TV. I'm probably going to have a repair place come take a look at it, i'll get an estimate for a repair and weigh my options from there. Thanks again!

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I have only a few things to offer. Firstly, I have the 50" version of that tv, and I had the bulb, color wheel, and "light engine" I believe replaced for free during the warranty period for a hazy/dark spot. My buddy had the 55" version, and he had an issue with some sensor on the door on the rear for the bulb not recognizing that it was closed. You can kinda think of his issue as a check engine light for your gas cap being loose. Just something else to check.
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I have only a few things to offer. Firstly, I have the 50" version of that tv, and I had the bulb, color wheel, and "light engine" I believe replaced for free during the warranty period for a hazy/dark spot. My buddy had the 55" version, and he had an issue with some sensor on the door on the rear for the bulb not recognizing that it was closed. You can kinda think of his issue as a check engine light for your gas cap being loose. Just something else to check.

 

I like the analogy, but the sensor has been checked, that is fine. I am noticing that for the few minutes that I can get the TV on, I am getting some 'ghosting' of white lines that are faintly flashing across the screen in random places....is this leaning more towards a color wheel?? Also, would the color wheel be turning off the TV like it's doing?? From what I've read on the internet, most people who have a problem with the color wheel are just having issues with the picture and it doesn't turn off....??

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Call Thompson Electronics

614-235-6985

 

Guy buys all of our auction TV's and fixes them. He knows his shit. I can't seem to remember his name, but tell him Cody from reTAGit sent you. I'm sure he'll make you a fair price if you feel like going the professional repair route.

 

I believe that is who did the warranty work on mine, he did a good job and quickly identified the issue.

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Not worth paying someone to look at it IMO. 42" is too small for a DLP anymore - it has very little used value due to the small screen size (the reason you go DLP is for the large screen size).

 

You can score a new 42" LCD for under $500 (that's name brands and a number to pick from without even looking hard). You could get a used 42" for likely under $300 as they are a super common size.

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Gary Thompson is the guy at thompson electronics. him and his wife Karen own the place, and he does know his shit and won't jerk you around. you can also tell him Evan Wyant sent you over...i used to work out with him at the Y in gahanna a couple times a week. ive stopped out at his shop to see them a couple times since, but its probably been a year since i saw them

 

Plus, last i know of, they had 2 base C6's and a ZR1. he's on here, but i doubt he's logged in since the month that i told him about the site

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Thanks all......keep in mind this TV is nearly 5 years old, and a 42" 5 years ago was not cheap.....I will NOT replace with another 42" ......we're going bigger :D

 

I'll at least pay for the trip charge to have them come out and give me an estimate, if it's something easy then I fix it and move on.....if it's too expensive, I start shopping :masturboy:

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So Thompson's got back to me and said the DMD board needs replaced and it's going to be $413 to get it fixed......does anyone know if this is an easy fix that I can do? I researched the part and it seems to be in the $150 range, so I'm paying a heck of a lot for labor.

If I replace this part am I just delaying the inevitable, like putting a new motor in a 200k mile body??

 

Can anyone help with this?

 

TIA

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