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FD RX-7 questions/Project car suggestions


Littleguy

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So, I've only driven my goat like 2500 miles this year so I'm thinking I'll be letting go of the GTO soon and switch it for something that will deliver a little more raw driving experience for me. I'd like to purchase a vehicle cash and try to stay around $12000 or less.

 

One of the cars I've always wanted and am considering now, is the FD RX-7 but I know almost nothing about them except they look great and seem nice and small/light. I've seen a few TT versions for sale around my price range but I'm unsure of what to look for in them. Ideally I'd want an lsx powered FD but I don't think I'll find one for what I'm looking to spend.

 

Basically I'd like to know what to look for in these cars and any other suggestions for a fun to drive weekend car. I've also been considering a Datsun 510, LS1 Nissan 240, and non-turbo MKIV Supras (but no turbo would suck and it would be a year or so to gather funds for a tt swap). Thanks in advance for the opinions and knowledge.

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with any of those cars i would consider how much car knowledge and mechanical ability you have yourself, something breaks or needs fabbed/updated are you able to put it together or is it going to a shop where you're at someones mercy, if not stick with something that is fun in closer to stock form or can be super fun with few mods..
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One of the cars I've always wanted and am considering now, is the FD RX-7 but I know almost nothing about them except they look great and seem nice and small/light. I've seen a few TT versions for sale around my price range but I'm unsure of what to look for in them. Ideally I'd want an lsx powered FD but I don't think I'll find one for what I'm looking to spend.

 

 

A good place to start http://www.rx7club.com/

 

Oh if you have questions there are a few rotor heads on here including a few of the LS persuasion

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1st rule of FD RX7's is ditch the wankel.

 

2nd rule of FD RX7's is ditch the wankel.

 

3rd rule......oh you get the point. Great chassis let down by a motor that has half as many moving parts, half as reliable and costs vastly more to maintain. Talk to Tinman.

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What are you going to do with the car? Drag, road course, autocross, weekend cruiser?

 

Remember, the FD was made for handling and make their power on the go, without modifying them. Even modded, you are looking at a rear end that's not make for hard launching. They are amazing cars that take the right care to run right. There are few people in the area who actually know these cars and you could find yourself at their mercy for time and pricing to get work done. That said, I had to learn FD's from scratch, so it can't be that hard if I grasp it.

 

Things to know:

Spark plugs are $5-$9 each, depending on your set up, X4 and they are replaced about every 1500 miles.

Oil and filter change is about every 1500 miles also.

Blown motor is usually just a seal kit for $500, plus labor. then basically it's a fresh motor.

I don't remember the last Apex seal that went on a car from anyone I know. Well over 5 years I would say. I would almost say that is a fixed issue in these cars, so long as they are cared for.

Even if you totally destroy your motor, a fresh one can be had pretty cheap and even be ported. They are on ebay all the time with trans for $1500ish.

 

There are tons of little things to these cars. People will chime in more. But that should give you an idea.

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One of the cars I've always wanted and am considering now, is the FD RX-7 but I know almost nothing about them except they look great and seem nice and small/light.

Read Joe's post. I'm too lazy for any of that but good luck if you aren't.

I've seen a few TT versions for sale around my price range but I'm unsure of what to look for in them.

Every one of them was turbo from the factory.

Ideally I'd want an lsx powered FD but I don't think I'll find one for what I'm looking to spend.

This is what a guy like me would want.

Basically I'd like to know what to look for in these cars and any other suggestions for a fun to drive weekend car. I've also been considering a Datsun 510, LS1 Nissan 240,

If somebody is selling some frankenstein shit like that, it's usually for a reason.

non-turbo MKIV Supras

yeah have fun with that.

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Thanks for the info, this is a lot to look through. I'm really looking for a car I can drive on nice days/weekends. I won't be drag racing the car but the more I read the more I think I'd prefer to go with an ls1 for a reliable/fun motor. There is a nice shell for sale her locally for $4800 so I've got to look into how much it would cost to put an ls1 in it.
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Thanks for the info, this is a lot to look through. I'm really looking for a car I can drive on nice days/weekends. I won't be drag racing the car but the more I read the more I think I'd prefer to go with an ls1 for a reliable/fun motor. There is a nice shell for sale her locally for $4800 so I've got to look into how much it would cost to put an ls1 in it.

 

another 4k atleast

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What are you going to do with the car? Drag, road course, autocross, weekend cruiser?

 

Remember, the FD was made for handling and make their power on the go, without modifying them. Even modded, you are looking at a rear end that's not make for hard launching. They are amazing cars that take the right care to run right. There are few people in the area who actually know these cars and you could find yourself at their mercy for time and pricing to get work done. That said, I had to learn FD's from scratch, so it can't be that hard if I grasp it.

 

Things to know:

Spark plugs are $5-$9 each, depending on your set up, X4 and they are replaced about every 1500 miles.

Oil and filter change is about every 1500 miles also.

Blown motor is usually just a seal kit for $500, plus labor. then basically it's a fresh motor.

I don't remember the last Apex seal that went on a car from anyone I know. Well over 5 years I would say. I would almost say that is a fixed issue in these cars, so long as they are cared for.

Even if you totally destroy your motor, a fresh one can be had pretty cheap and even be ported. They are on ebay all the time with trans for $1500ish.

 

There are tons of little things to these cars. People will chime in more. But that should give you an idea.

 

^This is your best bit of advice in the entire thread. It's sad how many people are afraid to learn a new platform. Rotaries are incredibly simple engines and are easy to work on. I applaud someone who actually TRIED to go with a rotary (like Berto) before swapping, rather than someone who immediately swapped. The biggest majority of rotary engine failure is NOT the apex seals, but rather something like a fuel system malfunction, bad tuning, etc,.

 

Engine topic aside, the FD is the most beautiful car I have ever owned. It does not look bad at any angle. The handling is amazing, the layout is perfect, and it is a car that will make you smile every time you walk out to the garage and see it. If you are a fat ass like myself, you will find it tight. If you plan to race it at all, check your helmet clearance. I doubt with a name like "Littleguy" that you have much to worry about. However, I cannot race mine. Good luck!

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A fb or a fc would be cheaper to swap to a lsx motor (at least for a complete grannys swap kit). Either way I would drive one with rotors first and see if you like it, and if you have a friend with a swapped fd ask if you can drive it too so you can see which you like better.
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My brother's (Smokey) FD is one of the best all around performing cars I've ever driven for the money.

 

I believe it's a 99 spec engine still on the stock twins with mainly reliablity and suspension mods. It does have a tune and bolt-on's but nothing crazy.

 

The boost comes in quick, the power is good (325-ish wheel), the car weighs less than 2800 lbs and has proven reliable. He's taken it to open lapping days 2 weeks in a row and the only failures have been a couple of bolts that came loose on the exhaust. Never ran hot, never blew up, and based on our data analysis I beleive it to be every bit as quick as my GT3 around the track....for 2.5x less money. It's a little finiky because he's precautionary and adds pre-mix, always chaging oil and plugs but as long as you understnad that going in and keep up with it those are just part of FD ownership.

 

My only thing with FD's is this, when he was shoping for the cars it amazed me what people thought was a "nice" car. We looked at some really rough examples that people thought were nice, matter of fact it was truely difficult to actually find a nice one. The one he ended up with was used as a weekend / track car just how he inteneded to use it and to be honest, despite the track time, I think it was still probably the nicest one that we saw the whole time. Lots of those things just beat and you can pretty much skip even looking at the low dollar ones because they will be a disappointment in person.

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http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ubybjut2bXE/T1OhAfBWdVI/AAAAAAAADrI/sX_nY6XPc1o/s1600/smokey3.jpg

 

You can think about it....but DOOONNNN'TT do it!

 

 

Seriously though, Joe's advice is good. You're going to think about what you want the car to be for you. While Andy is right that it's been a great track car for me for a low price, it does take a lot of maintenance and fiddling to keep it running that way. I'm envious of his GT3 when he can just get out of it after a session and not think about it all day. Hell, I don't even think he checks his oil all track day.

 

If you want a car that will be fun to hop in on the weekends and like tinkering on things here and there, then find one that's almost stock with just "reliability mods" and leave it. Enjoy the fact that it's fun and looks great and don't F with it! Don't go thinking you're going to have a 400hp single turbo car that won't take any work....not gonna happen.

 

Avoid this car if you want a drag car as your GTO is a better starting point.

 

As Andy mentioned, most owners bought these cars and tended to focus on mechanics of the car more than the asthetics and let the condition go to crap, which is a shame because how good the car looks. I guess lately I've been guilty of leaving mine pretty beat up from the track, but you'd be surprised as how many complete pieces of crap are out there that people list the exterior condition a 7/10. I'd MAYBE rate mine a 7/10 when completely polished up and it was better than every other single one I went to look at when buying mine. Take your time and find a nice example, it will pay off in the long run.

 

As for a swap, if you dont really have any affiliation for the rotary, then you can buy a car without one. It's still got a great suspension and beautiful body. I'm not going to tell you it's no longer an Rx7 or crap like some people will. I still like mine being a rotary, but I can see the appeal of a LS swap. Just realize that it's not completely fail-safe as if you want to track it you still have the oiling issues of the LS to fix. There was actually a member here who had a LS-swapped FD that blew up his LS twice, so it's not always perfect.

 

If you do buy a rotary car the one the best mod you could ever put on it will be a simple water injection system. I fully believe that's what's kept mine running after a full day of hard track sessions. That is the saving grace keeping the rotary alive.

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Another truth I'm realizing is that most RX7 owners, myself included, don't recommend you buy one. Yet we would defend our own endlessly though.

 

HAHA, I suppose that's true. I think it's mostly because we call came to terms with what it takes to own and keep a Rx7 before buying one. Recommending against casual ownership helps others realize that it's not an easy task to take on and prepares them for that. I'm not completely saying don't buy one, but make sure if you do, it's for the right reasons.

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Norm....my vote is to keep the very nice and clean GTO. Why don't you drive it much? What's not doing it for you there?

 

Just curious.

 

I really just haven't had the time to take it out very often this year, and since it only gets used once or twice a week it had me thinking of getting something less compromising. The one thing that keeps holding me back is the fact that my GTO is in absolutely perfect condition inside/out/mechanically and I'm afraid I'll be asking for a headache switching. I'm going to go to the shop I use today so they can take a look at my tune and do a general checkup and talk to them about options for my GTO (procharger, tvs, or n/a) and see what they think I'd have to spend for a quality LS swap into an RX-7.

 

I'm cuntfused, lol.

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The one thing that keeps holding me back is the fact that my GTO is in absolutely perfect condition inside/out/mechanically and I'm afraid I'll be asking for a headache switching.

 

Exactly what I was thinking.

 

I'm going to go to the shop I use today so they can take a look at my tune and do a general checkup and talk to them about options for my GTO (procharger, tvs, or n/a) and see what they think I'd have to spend for a quality LS swap into an RX-7. I'm cuntfused, lol.

 

FWIW, I'd do the typical bolt on items and non FI Stuff, enjoy it for a while and if needed later, add some boost. That's what I would do if you gave it to me :)

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1500-2k for engine tranny ecu and wiring

engine subframe kit ~500

driveshaft -200-300

rear driff + rear subframe 1k-2k

having someone install this shit and wire it up - who knows

 

now go stfu

 

For a truck motor, and it wont be making no 400hp

 

You are living in a cheap world maybe we can all come visitone day.

 

Ls6 pull out with a T56 your looking at 2800 -3800 depending on what it came out of what ls motor it is and how many miles.

 

If the list was that easy eeryone would do it

 

So how bout you STFU and get your numbers right before you give thhis guy some wrong info.

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