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One less V?


caseyctsv

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I'd take it to Mike over at Lincoln Merc. on Billingsley. He will get it totalled out, and fix it up for you like brand new. Great team there and they do the work in-house. Buy it as a salvage title and use the money left to put a snail on it. 95% serious. He'll tell you what's possible. Ask him about his nice C6 ;)

 

Mike is a fucking boss. Obviously I'm biased since I work for the same auto family. He does insanely good work for our store, has offered to help me out on my haggard Triumph on the cheap, and he runs a tight ship.

 

Appreciate the good word!

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Mike is a fucking boss. Obviously I'm biased since I work for the same auto family. He does insanely good work for our store, has offered to help me out on my haggard Triumph on the cheap, and he runs a tight ship. Appreciate the good word!

 

He deserves it.

 

Mike did the minor work on my MS3 and matched the pearl paint perfectly. I actually got his name and the dealership from PPG who said they are the go-to place for Tricolor paints like this. Mike then had the guys detail and buff out my entire car as I hadn't done it yet for spring that year. Looked amazing when I got it back.

 

Side note: He's Kevin Cliffords Cousin :)

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Am i the only one that feels they total cars just so they can make an assload in parts when the tow it to a salvage yard?

 

You know, that's a great point. I know very little about body work and what it costs, but both me and my wife were shocked to hear that that accident might total out that car... :(

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Yeah really 2 options...take the money and consider a new toy at some point or buy it back, fix it, and keep it.

 

 

& some people wonder how rebuilt title cars can have such minor damage and still get totaled out.

 

You have another option. Buy it back and sell it for more. You would make more then the money you would take from the insurance^ guaranteed $500 at least depending what kind of deal you want to make. If they total it out ask them -how much would they give you if you wanted to keep the car-

 

Let us know. I support the boost build :gabe: but also got in line if you want to end up making the most (if not keeping)

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Am i the only one that feels they total cars just so they can make an assload in parts when the tow it to a salvage yard?

 

Yup. If the owners don't buy them back, auctions will and most of the time they double-triple there money when they sell..

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Yup. If the owners don't buy them back, auctions will and most of the time they double-triple there money when they sell..

 

I imagine places like co-part (friend just got a job there actually) that specialize in salvage vehicles will make a killing off it. I would be completely shocked if insurance companies and places like co-part didn't have some sort of exclusive partnership.

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Hey, Casey...I can't tell from the pics but did your airbags go off? I concur with the others: if you know the history of the car and have a solid dude that can do the work, I'd buy it back from being totaled and rebuild it...fix some other issues with the remaining insurance dollars. I totally agree with Tim's assessment as well; for all the trouble, anything to get YOUR car back to it's original V glory and in your garage is the right thing to do.

 

Also, I got financing approved for a 2007 V I'm looking at but if that falls through I'd be intadested in your rebuilt :ninja:

 

No joke, I did some savage doughnuts in that thing on Monday at lunch on a test drive. Had to see how far the car would let me go with the traction control off. That lot is 8 minutes from my office.

 

It’s a nice car 

 

:dumb:

 

LOL, I was up in Cleveland for business two weeks ago and stopped by the North Coast Auto Mall in Bedford a couple of weeks ago for another car I saw on AutoTrader...walked in, smelled the stale cigarette smoke and saw the "BUY HERE PAY HERE" signage and was all NOPE :dumb::dumb: They run a shitton of cars through that place and the prices are dirty cheap, but I have to believe that most of them are light-damage auction rejects. :lol:

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My Camaro was damaged way worse the last time it was wrecked, I don't care because I love the car. It wasn't totaled because it was much newer, but it was straightened on a frame rack. The work was done right and I worked out the details. For some people its all about a finaciL decision and I get that, but for me its all about passion. Decide how you feel and enjoy the V some more or get something else, I think its obvious what I'd do.
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I imagine places like co-part (friend just got a job there actually) that specialize in salvage vehicles will make a killing off it. I would be completely shocked if insurance companies and places like co-part didn't have some sort of exclusive partnership.

 

No doubt they do, copart isn't the largest either.. they recently bought out another local auction called "salvage direct", it was a great place with tons of deals but after they were bought out it went down the shitter and cars/bikes are sitting at the lot rotting away.

 

My friend bought his R1 back for $1000. Instead of taking the $6500 he got the bike + $5500. If he didn't then it would have went to copart/IAA and sold for 2-4k easily [2006 with 6k miles] (bike was barely damaged, he is probably riding it right now).

 

That's why I stress buying it back from insurance and either keeping or selling it to someone who would rebuild it (me) or any of the other 20 people who will want it.

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Still waiting to hear on whether it is totaled or not to be clear

 

It really all boils down to business. Everyone basically wins but there is better ways to win more.

 

Let us know what happens.

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Am i the only one that feels they total cars just so they can make an assload in parts when the tow it to a salvage yard?

 

Most of the time they run a break-even analysis which includes how much the company will pay on rental, taxes, possible supplements, etc. If it's cheaper to total the vehicle and the damage is within a certain percentage of the value of the car, then it will be totaled.

 

LOL, I was up in Cleveland for business two weeks ago and stopped by the North Coast Auto Mall in Bedford a couple of weeks ago for another car I saw on AutoTrader...walked in, smelled the stale cigarette smoke and saw the "BUY HERE PAY HERE" signage and was all NOPE :dumb::dumb: They run a shitton of cars through that place and the prices are dirty cheap, but I have to believe that most of them are light-damage auction rejects. :lol:

 

I test drove an IS350 there a few years ago. Place is sketchy as hell. I guess you can save some money there but I would be getting a THOROUGH inspection and history of any vehicle from a third party before even considering a car from that lot. I came back not even 5 minutes after I took it on a test drive and it was in such poor shape I just gave the guy his keys back and walked away.

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Update: Had not heard from Achbach so I dropped by to speak to Dan. He is a really nice guy and confessed he had 9 cars dropped to him on Friday, was a bit behind, and had not gotten to my CTSv yet. Since I was there he sort of "bumped it to the top". He went and looked it over with me. He has to price the parts but thought the damage was "manageable". The big things he was worried about are not damaged. Based on his quick "once over" he noted, in addition to the obvious front quarter, hood, grill, front fascia:

 

- impact missed the frame rail - fender was "peeled" cleanly away from the rail (good news)

- impact just missed the PCM (also good news)

- drivers side suspension took the heaviest hit - lower control arm looks good but will be replaced as it is aluminum and no way to verify stress fractures (apparently)

- the impact to the lower control arm bent the mounting point on the engine cradle so a new cradle is in order(that sucks)

- no impact damage to the motor or any significant components

- split the airbox - that will need replaced

- coolant and power steering fluids were drained - obvious power steering line damage - not sure where the coolant leak is - radiator or hose

- will need a new tire - broken belt

 

I am not sure what that adds up to at this point or how they are valuing it but Dan seemed hopeful it was not totalled. He did say GM will not sell a "quarter panel" replacement part - it will be the entire side of the car (front quarter, roof, rear quarter). I found that interesting - they will cut out what they need. Unfortunately it costs $1,800.00.

 

On another note, I spoke to Ryan (RC K9) this afternoon and he shared some valuable insight on dealing with the claim. I appreciate that support from members of the board. It was good talking to him.

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How is it totalled? Airbags didn't deploy and it didn't even look it needed a door.

I'm also an Insurance Adjuster, right away, I see the following things:

 

- Hood, Fender, Bumper, and Grille need replaced

 

- Hit in the front corner, you can clearly see the Left Rail in the damage area, it may require a unibody pull to straighten/put on the frame rack for measurements

 

- Does Cadillac have specific guidelines for repairs to the vehicle when put on the rack? For example, with many BMW, and MB vehicles, you have to drop the suspension and put the car on jigs to measure the chassis for movement.

 

- With the fender that far back, 100% chance that the apron assembly was damaged.

 

When I lived in Ohio, I had the 135i fixed at Achbach, but I cannot recall, what are his labor rates, for body, paint, frame, and mechanical? If Dan's rates are high dollar, and he wants high repair times, that alone could easily total it.

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Update: Had not heard from Achbach so I dropped by to speak to Dan. He is a really nice guy and confessed he had 9 cars dropped to him on Friday, was a bit behind, and had not gotten to my CTSv yet. Since I was there he sort of "bumped it to the top". He went and looked it over with me. He has to price the parts but thought the damage was "manageable". The big things he was worried about are not damaged. Based on his quick "once over" he noted, in addition to the obvious front quarter, hood, grill, front fascia:

 

- impact missed the frame rail - fender was "peeled" cleanly away from the rail (good news)

- impact just missed the PCM (also good news)

- drivers side suspension took the heaviest hit - lower control arm looks good but will be replaced as it is aluminum and no way to verify stress fractures (apparently)

- the impact to the lower control arm bent the mounting point on the engine cradle so a new cradle is in order(that sucks)

- no impact damage to the motor or any significant components

- split the airbox - that will need replaced

- coolant and power steering fluids were drained - obvious power steering line damage - not sure where the coolant leak is - radiator or hose

- will need a new tire - broken belt

 

I am not sure what that adds up to at this point or how they are valuing it but Dan seemed hopeful it was not totalled. He did say GM will not sell a "quarter panel" replacement part - it will be the entire side of the car (front quarter, roof, rear quarter). I found that interesting - they will cut out what they need. Unfortunately it costs $1,800.00.

 

On another note, I spoke to Ryan (RC K9) this afternoon and he shared some valuable insight on dealing with the claim. I appreciate that support from members of the board. It was good talking to him.

 

My Thoughts:

 

- If it missed the rail (upper "apron" or lower "frame/rail assembly" was not specified), it might well be fixer.

 

- GENERALLY, if suspension components are contacted in any capacity, they are replaced f/ liability reasons.

 

- Some vehicles, like your Caddi dont have standalone quarter panels available to be welded in, they come in entire unisides, like what Dan is explaining. However, isn't your car a front end hit, why are they looking at the quarter panel/uniside??? I see the fender, but what other side damage did your vehicle receive? Maybe I'm blind.

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He was just commenting that parts can be expensive. Mine just needs a fender. The lower frame assembly was untouched. It just wadded up the fender. Upper shock

Mount area looks good as well. It is really hard for me to see a total here but I don't know.

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Upper shock

Mount area looks good .

 

The problem with "looks good" is insurance companies will always find that loophole if something where to happen down the line. Same reason that they want to replace the LCA, even though it "looks good". There is no way for them to test it, or removal/testing cost more than the new part.

 

Any issues with the dumb broad that hit you covering expenses? did the fact that she was" on the job" come into play?

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