caseyctsv Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I will be getting my car out of storage here in the next few weeks to get it ready for spring. I was told on the first start up I could press the clutch and accelerator to the floor and the starter will spin the engine to build oil pressure but won't start. It sounds like a good idea to prevent a "dry" start but does that really work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadz89GTA Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Why wouldn't you just unplug the coils under the hood if that's what you're going for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Why wouldn't you just unplug the coils under the hood if that's what you're going for? That was the plan but if this works it is easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Most gm cars will do this, the feature is usually called "flood out" mode. Or just yank the efi fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickey4271647545519 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Most gm cars will do this, the feature is usually called "flood out" mode. Or just yank the efi fuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 WOT when cranking disables fuel injectors on GM cars. As dry starts go, it's still a dry cranking event if the engine doesn't fire. Stop reading too far into it and start it. The only way to prevent a dry start would be to pull the oil galley plug and pressurise the system manually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 WOT when cranking disables fuel injectors on GM cars. As dry starts go, it's still a dry cranking event if the engine doesn't fire. Stop reading too far into it and start it. The only way to prevent a dry start would be to pull the oil galley plug and pressurise the system manually. This is what I was thinking. Turn the damn key and start it up, drive it like you stole it and don't look back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thanks guys - long and short of it is I meant to go up and start it a few times this winter and ever got around to it. Wanted to take any precautions I should. I have all new fluids for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickey4271647545519 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Thanks guys - long and short of it is I meant to go up and start it a few times this winter and ever got around to it. Wanted to take any precautions I should. I have all new fluids for it. Unless you start it up every couple of days, it's best to let it sit all winter. After 1-1.5 weeks it'll be a dry start (in terms of oil film) anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbospec29 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Unless you start it up every couple of days, it's best to let it sit all winter. After 1-1.5 weeks it'll be a dry start (in terms of oil film) anyway. This. After a week or so a dry start is a dry start as far as the engine knows. For winter storage its best to just let it sit the whole time and put a tender on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Best thing to do IMHO is take out all of the plugs and disable the fuel so it's not washing down the cylinders. Roll it over for about 15 seconds after you see oil pressure. With the plugs out there is no pressure on most of the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Best thing to do IMHO is take out all of the plugs and disable the fuel so it's not washing down the cylinders. Roll it over for about 15 seconds after you see oil pressure. With the plugs out there is no pressure on most of the bearings. This is a good idea if you feel the need, just remember your factory gauges don't work when cranking so just an educated guess on crank time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussiek2000 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 you do more damage by pushing in the clutch the start than by starting it "dry" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTaylor751647545500 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 (edited) What if you just put the car on a rotisserie every winter, and in the spring, just spin the entire car upside-down to re-lube the engine? Edited February 16, 2016 by TimTaylor75 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I just drive mine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Now it needs to have a break in period so the rings can set and valves adjust properly again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 What if you just put the car on a rotisserie every winter, and in the spring, just spun the entire car upside-down to re-lube the engine? Why didn't I think of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTaylor751647545500 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Why didn't I think of that? I'm a problem solver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miller11386 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I vote its crap. Make sure you actually have oil in the car and the battery is up to par. If those are good, fire that thing up. My import garbage sits all winter with 50 weight in it and I don't have any issues. Surely the LS3 which is built by Zeus himself wont have any issues. I fired it up this year only because I had to take it down to the master melter's workshop. Even then, it was 25 degrees on 25% Ethanol. It had no problems firing right up because I keep the battery on a battery tender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRTurbo04 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I see your concern cause its a nice car. But it is a Camaro not a Ferrari. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I see your concern cause its a nice car. But it is a Camaro not a Ferrari. Believe me, I get it. My biggest concern on the whole car is the valve springs letting go. If you read some of the stuff people do to their cars in storage it is crazy. I am happy to know that there is no real need to do any of the stuff which is why I asked. There are some that have said I signed a death warrant for the car by not prepping and maintaining the car in storage. It seems that is way overblown. Plan is now to put the battery back in and, once it is up to temp, let it rip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I have always stored my "toy" cars for the winter - not because they are worth so much or anything but because it makes it more special to me when the weather is nice. It is like a new car every time I drive it. Plus I am in a position where I can afford a DD that does that duty much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpaceGhost Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Believe me, I get it. My biggest concern on the whole car is the valve springs letting go. If you read some of the stuff people do to their cars in storage it is crazy. I am happy to know that there is no real need to do any of the stuff which is why I asked. There are some that have said I signed a death warrant for the car by not prepping and maintaining the car in storage. It seems that is way overblown. Plan is now to put the battery back in and, once it is up to temp, let it rip. My dad had a highly modified 85 GSXR in storage in AZ, I asked him to take it out and he said we can't he had filled the entire engine with kerosine to preserve it I guess. Don't how much truth there was in that statement but yeah I get it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussiek2000 Posted February 17, 2016 Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 Why not just change the valve springs if they are your biggest fear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyctsv Posted February 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2016 I am going to. It has 20k on the cam and double springs. Most say you can make it 30-40k on the springs so I should be good through this year but was worried, based on reading some theories, that leaving the motor in the same position for an extended period of time can cause the springs to fail. It's all good, I got the info I needed here. This is the first time I have stored a car remote from where a I live where I couldn't fire it up every few weeks. Just checking if there is anything I should do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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