C10 Turbo 5.3 "build"

[iwashmycar]

For the A2W and adjacent cooling hose support, might look (and work) nice using 2 "rubber lined clamps". I think you could get them in varying diameters, then bolt them together in the middle...could even angle them as needed.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/54EG46?gclid=CjwKCAiA3uDwBRBFEiwA1VsajK7pZPDhfjxKTSY93Z6mCJifqvbedo3uEeHiSjqrjl70s_4_dX-1TRoCDgcQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiA3uDwBRBFEiwA1VsajK7pZPDhfjxKTSY93Z6mCJifqvbedo3uEeHiSjqrjl70s_4_dX-1TRoCDgcQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916758277!!!g!82128327597!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197

[zeitgeist57]

A lot of hoe?

 

Hose.

 

Silicone, rubber, or otherwise.

[cruizin01]

Love it. Can't wait to see this thing on the road, very similar to a build I hope to complete someday.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Thanks man. You are welcome to see it anytime. I hope to have it out as much as possible this year. I usually make at least a couple c&c events. I think I put 1k miles on it last summer. Hoping for more this year.

[cruizin01]

For the A2W and adjacent cooling hose support, might look (and work) nice using 2 "rubber lined clamps". I think you could get them in varying diameters, then bolt them together in the middle...could even angle them as needed.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/54EG46?gclid=CjwKCAiA3uDwBRBFEiwA1VsajK7pZPDhfjxKTSY93Z6mCJifqvbedo3uEeHiSjqrjl70s_4_dX-1TRoCDgcQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAiA3uDwBRBFEiwA1VsajK7pZPDhfjxKTSY93Z6mCJifqvbedo3uEeHiSjqrjl70s_4_dX-1TRoCDgcQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916758277!!!g!82128327597!?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175663197

 

Thanks Adam, Ill keep those in mind. Ill see how everything goes when I get it all clamped down. I may have to wait and get it running and see where stuff rubs, etc.

[Otis Nice]

Hose.

 

Silicone, rubber, or otherwise.

 

"Heaux's's's's" is what I think you meant.

[cruizin01]

Been a couple weeks since my last update. Wifey and I spent some time in Desert last week in the south west. Did some "Jeepin" with some friends. I was super impressed for a guided tour. The jeeps were super legit. 1 tons axles, hydro steering (except for the Rubicon in the 1st pic), 40" tires w/ beadlocks, on-board air w/ front and rear air lockers.

 

 

 

Anyway, while I was off my driveshaft showed up from Driveshaft Specialist out of Texas. Their customer service was excellent and the turn around was quick as well. I went with a single piece 5" aluminum .125 wall unit. I decided to upgrade the pinion yolk and slip yolk to 1350 chromoly units. The only downside to a single unit this long is Im limited to about 6200rpm due to critical speed. Not really a big deal for my setup. I just need to swap out my pinion yolk and trans output seal and it will be ready to install.

 

 

I had ordered a catch can setup from Mighty Mouse and it showed up as well. I ordered it with their booster bracket and it fit just right. It utilizes an adapter at the oil fil cap and a larger 8an hose. The can has a built in pcv for boosted application. I just needed to add a fitting on the air intake extension and it all screwed together.

 

 

A friend tig'd the blow off flange on the charge pipe for me so I was able to mount it and plumb the vacuum hose.

 

 

I had to swap out the fittings on the a/w intercooler as the ones included were too "small" and they bottomed out and leaked. So I had to order some new ones which fixed the leaking. I had to rebleed the system as well. I realized I didn't have it bleed correctly anyway. I struggled with getting all the air out of the system. I just had to keep adding a little at a time through the coolant cap. Eventually the pump stopped sounding like it was cavitating and no more air bubbles. It still doesn't hold a lot of coolant so if it doesn't seem to keep IAT's down Ill have to add a reservoir of sorts.

 

Im pretty much finished with most of the major components in the engine compartment. Few nick-nac items remaining. I still need to run the fuel lines and swap the fuel pump and filter. Then it should be ready to start. Im pretty happy with how everything fit together in the engine bay. It needs a lot of cleaning from the build. It looks a little more cluttered than I was hoping but there is a lot going on with a turbo build and I want it to be "serviceable". In the end its just a driver and not some show vehicle so the end result is fitting I suppose.

[Gergwheel1647545492]

Looks incredible. Can't wait to see/hear this thing.

[Alex L.]

Looking good, nice work.

[TimTaylor751647545500]

Pro Tourning Texas' turbo'd LS swapped suburban is my favorite square body build, but yours is giving him a run for his money.

[cruizin01]

Pro Tourning Texas' turbo'd LS swapped suburban is my favorite square body build, but yours is giving him a run for his money.

 

I dont think Ive seen that build. Is there a thread somewhere?

[TimTaylor751647545500]

Not that I'm aware of, I just follow them on social media.

 

They have a lot of information and pictures of it on their webpage - https://www.protouringtexas.com/

[Otis Nice]

This is everything I wish my truck could be but it never will because I'll never put this much time or effort into it.

 

Well done. I love it.

[zeitgeist57]

Those engine bay pics are AMAZING...not because it's super clean with smoothed fenders and firewall and tucked wiring, but because it has:

A/C

Water-to-air intercooler

Turbo

Catch-can and all piping

....and it's super-sanitary. Sexy in it's functionality. You did a great job routing everything.

 

LOVE IT!

[Otis Nice]

Those engine bay pics are AMAZING...not because it's super clean with smoothed fenders and firewall and tucked wiring, but because it has:

A/C

Water-to-air intercooler

Turbo

Catch-can and all piping

....and it's super-sanitary. Sexy in it's functionality. You did a great job routing everything.

 

LOVE IT!

 

Take notes.

[cruizin01]

Not that I'm aware of, I just follow them on social media.

 

They have a lot of information and pictures of it on their webpage - https://www.protouringtexas.com/

 

I see it now. I have seen a few pics of it but didn't know any of the details. That things is nice. I love blue that thats a LOT of blue. Really nice setup.

 

This is everything I wish my truck could be but it never will because I'll never put this much time or effort into it.

 

Well done. I love it.

 

Thanks for that. Its a lot of work but not like a retarded amount. I mean its been 3 months maybe? just some nights and weekends. But I understand not everyone has free time. No kids here and no crazy work hours so Im fortunate.

 

Those engine bay pics are AMAZING...not because it's super clean with smoothed fenders and firewall and tucked wiring, but because it has:

A/C

Water-to-air intercooler

Turbo

Catch-can and all piping

....and it's super-sanitary. Sexy in it's functionality. You did a great job routing everything.

 

LOVE IT!

 

Thanks Clay, I appreciate the outlook on that. I look at too much social media and always wonder if I should have put more effort into it but then I talk to real people and they say Im crazy. So yeah, Thanks.

[Ackbar00]

Looks awesome!

[cruizin01]

few updates this week gents.

 

I swapped out the factory pinion yolk for this upgraded yolk with 1350 ujoints that I got with the drive shaft. The only thing I dont like about it is it doesn't accept a dust shield... well it might but I wasn't able to find one for it. If I was taking it offroad it would be more of an issue I suppose. I installed it the sloppy way and just torqued the nut to 150 ft lbs. I wasn't about to go through the hassle of installing a new crush sleeve.

 

 

The new chromoly slip yoke with matching ujoint. I had to swap out the trans seal for the non dust boot style so we could use a shorter yoke which the drive shaft shop recommended.

 

 

The driveshaft is installed.. for now. The large crossmember you see in the picture below is a little too close to the shaft I think. I only have about 3 fingers worth of clearance. Which is about an inch less than I have before the suspension would be limited by the bump stop. This should only be about a half inch less than I had with the other shaft but with this being aluminum Im not comfortable with it so Im gonna have to do something with the crossmember.

 

 

I started on the fuel system upgrade. This sucked. I can only get the truck so far off the ground with jack stands which makes it a PIA to get under and work on.

 

I started by removing the tank and pulling the sender so I could modify the hat and install the 525lph "hellcat" pump. I wanted to upgrade the wiring that passes through the hat as folks have seen this burn up with large pumps. I didn't have any issues with the 400lph unit but didn't want to chance it. So I found a bulkhead connector and drilled out the original hole and feed the wires through. The factory bent up feed supply is also a small restriction so I decided to cut it off and use another bulkhead fitting to feed the new 10an supply line.

 

 

Once the fuel tank was back in the truck I could work on getting the feed and return upto the engine. I needed to install the fpr and the flex fuel sensor and fuel filter. I decided on a Deatschwerks filter because it was the only 10 micron filter that is 100% ethanol safe. And its cleanable. Anyway working with this PTFE line sucks hard. Especially if you have to work with it under the truck. Im glad Im using it but it sucks to fit the ends. If you look closely I used an existing hole in the top of the frame so I can fit an allen wrench into to adjust the fpr if needed.

 

 

The supply is routed to the passenger side front rail and the return on the driver side. I just did this because of how close the alternator is to the rail and the return fitting is smaller so it fit better. I dont like the zip ties but they will do for now.

 

 

I was able to power the pump late last night and flow some fuel through all the lines. I have one injector leaking at the rail so I'll have to pull the RH rail and see if I have a cut oring or something. Other than that I think the fuel system is done. Thank Goodness.

 

C10 should be ready to start at this point. I have a couple small things to finish up but Im hoping this weekend I can load a base map and see if she wants to come to life.

[Otis Nice]

I can't wait for this thing to be "done". :thumbup:

[cruizin01]

I can't wait for this thing to be "done". :thumbup:

 

These types of projects are never "done"

[Otis Nice]

These types of projects are never "done"

 

Exactly. Hence the quotation marks.

[cruizin01]

Exactly. Hence the quotation marks.

 

haha. oh then I agree. I definitely like the process probably more than the end result. Luckily when you bury yourself in junk like this its always on going.

[cruizin01]

Had a pretty good week/weekend. Last week I pulled the RH fuel rail off to find a cut oring. So that was an easy fix.

 

 

So Saturday morning I messed around and got a base calibration setup in the Holley. I started with a base tune that Matt Happel had posted. Timing worked out good because Holley just loaded all the fuel calibration stuff from the Snake Eater Performance injectors I had so that was easy. Then I just went through and picked out all my other sensors, etc.

 

You have to use the hand held to do a TPS autoset before you can do anything as far as starting goes. It kept failing on me for some reason. I got to thinking that I have a splitter for the TPS sensor so I can feed it to the trans Controller. I had issues with the sniper using that splitter. So I tore apart the harness and unplugged the splitter. TPS calibrated without any issues. Once I did that I was able to plug the trans back in and everything seems to work fine with it now. So I can keep the splitter. The trans uses TPS so it can adjust pressures inside the trans.

 

So the Holley Firmware and Software have to be close in proximity as far as updates. I used the Software on the laptop to try and get them matched up. It loaded but then the ECU couldn't be found. LONG story short I guess the splitter I use for the dash handheld and the computer together causes issues. So yeah splitters suck. lol.. I eventually got it and everything works fine.

 

Now it was TIME! ... well I did turn the engine over for a 30 seconds or so with no fuel pump to try and get some oil circulated. But then I plugged it back in for the first attempt at starting.

 

Hit the key and BOOM. Instantly fired up. Like right now! I wasn't expecting it. Normally there's always something Ive forgotten to do.

 

I cannot figure out how to imbed the video on this site. And yes I know I was holding the camera wrong. It was really just for a quick snap chat. Ill have plenty more coming soon.

 

 

And yes it sounds like a tractor. The exhaust stops about at the back of the cab. So Im gonna rectify that shortly.

 

Just a few bugs I had to work out after getting it up and running.

 

-My Dakota Digital oil pressure gauge works fine but the stock GM sensor is reading zero. I even made a custom calibration to see if that would work and it didn't. So Ill replace it and see if that helps.

 

- The base throttle position was all out of whack. Its a cable driven throttle with an IAC sensor but requires an initial adjustment. Of course the set screw was kinda corroded and I ran out of adjustment so I had to remove the throttle to get it out. I cleaned it up and started the set screw in from the top and everything worked fine.

 

 

- I couldn't get the cooling system to bleed. I even used a vacuum bleeder but the engine kept getting to 225* but the lower hose was cold. I assumed the tstat wasn't opening. Eventually after I kept adding coolant to the radiator it all cleared up. Not it runs around *190-195. I need to play with the cooling fans yet.

 

- Im gonna have to redo my a2w coolant pump wiring. I thought wiring it to 12V accessory was a good idea but obviously it runs anytime the key is on and thats dumb so I have extra outputs on the Holley so Ill decide how I want it activated. Maybe under boost or once the IAT's get to a certain temperature? I dunno yet.

 

Anyway sorry for the book. Ill try and get more pics and video once I get the truck back on the ground and cleaned up.

 

Thanks for reading.

[cruizin01]

Morning Gents,

 

few random updates this week.

 

After starting the truck a couple of times last week to mess with the tune and double check for leaks, etc I found the truck charging at over 15v at idle. This seemed like an obvious problem, especially since I had swapped the regulator and didn't really know what I was doing. I did some more research and didn't really come up with much about the swap I did. I decided to pull the alternator and mess with it some more. There was a small pin on the rectifier? that had originally been attached to another small pin on the original regulator. On the new setup they didn't fit together but I figured they needed connected. So I used a piece of house wiring copper wire and soldered the 2 together. Reinstalled in the truck and wouldn't ya know, 13.8v. Sweet!

 

Yes I suck and forgot to take better pictures.

 

The more I ran the truck (even just at idle) the more I realized the short exhaust was not gonna work for me. Too drony and putt putt sounding. So I decided instead of buying another ~$150 worth of pipe and spend a day making a tailpipe that I didn't know whether I would like how it sounded I would just make one of my old 3" tailpipes work. I bought a 3.5" to 3" adapter and a stainless clamp to mate the 2. I just had to cut and angle the front of the old pipe and it slid right into the muffler and went into place where it did previously. Im happy with how it sounds.. for now.. More truck sounding and less tractor sounding.

 

 

The big project Saturday was to make some clearance on the big rear crossmember for the driveshaft. Under normal conditions there was only about 2-3" between the new shaft and the crossmember. I was worried if I ever had a load in the truck and/or the susp compressed they would contact before the bumpstop got to do its thing.

 

It was not removeable without removing the bed and cutting all the rivets so I decided to do it under the truck. What a pain to work with. I used a cutoff wheel and sawzall to cut out a section. I then used an old piece of frame that I cut out from the C notch to box it back in. Its NOT pretty but its the best I could do off my back under the truck.

 

 

I also modified a small crossmember further up the chassis for the same reasons. It was significantly simpler.

 

 

 

All this work under the truck allowed me to get the truck back on the ground. I spent a little time cleaning up the engine bay. I found one small coolant leak that I tightened the clamp on. Ill check it soon. I did pull the truck out of the garage for a quick minute. (forgot pics as normal). Im hoping if we get any dry days this week or weekend I can take it up the road for a quick trip.

 

Thanks for following along.

 

[Otis Nice]

Looking great.

[cruizin01]

I figure its been a minute might as well update.

 

Lots of stupid little fixes and redo's lately.

 

I ran across a post from someone talking about how they've seen the center section on these cheap filters get sucked into the turbo so I decided I didn't want to be one of those guys so I swapped it out with an AEM dry filter. If anyone needs a cheap air filter lmk. It goes from 5" down to 3" with a little adapter.

 

 

With the truck idling I noticed that I was getting engine vapors out of the catch can pretty heavily. I double checked all my plumbing and came to realize the port on the intake I was using near the throttle wasn't under vacuum thus causing my issues. So I reworked that and its all fixed now.

 

 

 

I was talking with Brian Turner over FB about injectors and I brought up the SEP injectors I had installed in my truck. He said he his tuner friends had seen issues with them and wouldn't tune cars with them. I was hesitant to just take his advice about not running them just because of how many people have had great success with them. I sent an email to a guy that cleaned and flow test a lot of injectors and asked him his opinion. He said he'd seen issues with them... So I went ahead and ordered and installed a set of Dekas. I should have bought these from the get go as they were barely more expensive than the SEP's. So if anyone wants some EV6 80's for cheap lmk.

 

 

I modified my fuel rail hold downs because the new injectors were taller than the old ones. Worked out well instead of using stupid spacers.

 

 

I wanted to get my ac lines made up and routed. I was able to reuse the larger hose and one specialty fitting. I ordered some of the smaller hose and new fittings from cold hose. Craig from here on CR let me borrow and crimper. Super simple. Assuming they seal. lol.

 

The only issue I had was installing the one on the compressor. It sits so close to the frame there was no way to get a wrench in there to tighten it. So I drill some small holes in the nut and used a punch and hammer to tighten them down. Worked great. I just need to swap the dryer and charge the system.

 

 

 

I took the truck out Saturday to bomb around and realized the truck was only making about 3psi. Which was sorta ok to do some data logging and make sure everything was working fine. I think it was faster on 3psi than the BBC was at full tilt.

 

I have about a 7lb spring in the waste gate so I had to have a plumbing issue for it to make less than gate. So I doubled checked my lines and realized they were switched. So I took it out Sunday morning and made some boosty boost. Truck is running around 11-12 psi on the requested 8psi through the holley. Everything looks good though. I have it setup on closed loop boost control so I guess I need to mess with the PID stuff and try to get it to match my requested level. I have boost cut set to 12psi so it must be coming in right under that. The datalog isn't really showing a duty cycle change so Im not sure what's going on. I've never messed with that stuff.

 

Here's a crappy video.

 

 

 

The truck feels pretty amazing at its current level. Timing and AFR is pretty conservative since Im just some dumby playing above my pay grade but it pulls pretty hard. It makes enough power to tire fire if you want but not just blow them off anytime the pedal goes down. Its kinda quiet with the full exhaust and intake but maybe it'll get a loud valve at some point. For now its fine.

 

I am getting some weird noise from the trans. It sorta did it previously but seems a little worse now with the new converter. In 4th gear at low'ish speeds under light load the trans makes a weird slipping noisy. Its worse if the converter is locked up. I can't put my finger on it. You can kinda feel it when the truck is idling in park but can't really hear it. Its strange. Im not sure where to go with it. Ill double check the fluid level again. Maybe pull the pan soon and see if anything "falls" out and take a look at the fluid.

 

Anyway,

 

The truck finally got a bath yesterday after all the work over the winter. Cleans up nice.