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C10 Turbo 5.3 "build"


cruizin01

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You have a TT?

 

Yes, a manual would make it better you old, soft turd.

 

I expected a comment from you ;). Dont you drive an F-150 now?:rolleyes:

 

And yes, I downsized ( or downgraded as you might say) to 2 cars from 3. The BRZ and A3 are gone and replaced with a Sepang Blue MK3 TT-S.

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I expected a comment from you ;). Dont you drive an F-150 now?:rolleyes:

 

And yes, I downsized ( or downgraded as you might say) to 2 cars from 3. The BRZ and A3 are gone and replaced with a Sepang Blue MK3 TT-S.

 

Oh wow, that's quite the shake up! You doing less track days now, or is the TTS getting all that duty as well? How are you liking it?

 

It's all coming together now, you've gone full autotard...

 

Yes, daily drive a Max Tow 3.5 crew 6.5 F150. I, however didn't lower it, put a power adder on it, and spend a small fortune modifying it in other ways.

 

With that said, I have 2 mustangs in manual and my wife has an AWD sportwagen in manual.

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Oh wow, that's quite the shake up! You doing less track days now, or is the TTS getting all that duty as well? How are you liking it?

 

It's all coming together now, you've gone full autotard...

 

Yes, daily drive a Max Tow 3.5 crew 6.5 F150. I, however didn't lower it, put a power adder on it, and spend a small fortune modifying it in other ways.

 

With that said, I have 2 mustangs in manual and my wife has an AWD sportwagen in manual.

 

Yeah, less track days. Couldn't justify having another car sitting around that was only seeing a couple track events a year. I figure the TT could handle that if I want to continue doing some. Carvana gave me dumb money for the BRZ and I sold every aftermarket part off of it so I did well on the sale. I actually probably miss the A3 more than the BRZ. It was a great $5k car.

 

The TT is nice. Its hard to come back from a car with the driving dynamics of the BRZ. It can't touch it. But everything else it does better for stop and go, daily driving needs. Its already stg 2 so it gets up and goes faster than anything Ive had in the past.

 

Downsizing leaves me and extra spot to start another project of some sort in the future. I couldn't just keep collecting vehicles without clearing something out. But yeah Im manual-less at the house right now for the first time since I was 17 I think? It wont last forever.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Last night I got peer pressured into going to MCR to make some passes in the C10. I was hoping it wasn't too busy but I guess they are having a race this weekend and it was a nice night so it was packed. 6 lanes of cars on street tires. So I only managed 3 passes.

 

The truck was cutting out at WOT around 5500rpm on about 12psi. It goes from full pull to coasting immediately. If you keep your foot in it, itll just coast. If you get out of it it'll come back. Its weird. So we took it out on the street and turned the boost down and it didn't do it until over 6k. So we left it at that and I was able to make one pass pedaling first and part of second and shifting at 5800 rpm. Went 13.5 @ 105mph so not impressive but we still had a fun night. Now I want slicks..lol

 

I looked over my datalogs briefly and cant find any obvious issues so I need to have a friend look over them with me.

 

Here's the video and then another from the cruise a couple weeks ago.

 

 

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Blowing out the spark at the high end?

 

That was kinda an initial thought. Now I have no experience with that in anything but Im running the recommended plugs and recommended gap so it shouldn't be doing it at this level. BR7EF gapped at .022. I guess maybe it could be coils? But it doesn't misfire or breakup it just dies for the most part.

 

My only other thought is the intake manifold Im running. A couple guys said theirs "blew up" at around 14psi but I cant find any proof that mine is not holding. You would think once it blew out or leaked it would have a constant leak at that point. Wondering if I could rig up something to put some compressed air in the system and check for leaks?

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Rigged up a make shift boost tester last night. Found an immediate large leak at a port in the intake manifold that the plug must have blown off of. I also found a pretty good leak at my map sensor. So Ill fix those and retest. Probably not my problem but definitely can't be helping.
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Rigged up a make shift boost tester last night. Found an immediate large leak at a port in the intake manifold that the plug must have blown off of. I also found a pretty good leak at my map sensor. So Ill fix those and retest. Probably not my problem but definitely can't be helping.

 

Hopefully if it wasn't the issue, it may help enough to keep you on the right path.

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The leak plug I rigged up wasn't holding any boost once I got the BIG leak fixed. So I stopped at Lowes and picked up this plug. I took a metal valve stem and drilled and installed it in the plug. Works great and I spent 6 bucks.

 

etVwErTl.jpg

 

Found 2 more leaks in the charge piping. Everything is now sealed except for the map sensor leaks slightly. Ive tried about everything to get it to seal. I think the hole in the intake manifold is slightly too big and the fact its held in place with 1 screw off to the side. Maybe its time for a Holley Hi-Ram?

 

I wasn't able to build more than about 2psi previously with shop air with the leaks. I can now build ~14psi with only the leak from the map sensor. Maybe more but Im worried about the plug blowing out.

 

Hopefully I get a chance to drive it tonight and see if this fixed any of my issues.

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Dumb sensor design lol.

 

Maybe run a plate across that hits the one screw and somehow goes across to something else...or zip ties!

 

Yeah I was hoping for something like that but its on the back of the manifold and there's nothing there and its a huge PIA to get back there. Id have to remove the manifold to come up with anything substantial. And Im not doing that unless Im swapping it.

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Well I think my junk is fixed. Its amazing how much better the truck runs. I set the controller to 12psi and it made 13-14 in 2nd gear and almost 16psi in 3rd. So Ill have to redo my boost duty-cycle graph. I ran it out to 6400 at these levels with no cut. The truck spools faster and just seems to run better all around. Except for the fact that my idle and some other stuff is thrown off now because the vacuum leaks are fixed.

 

Pretty stoked to have fixed the issue. Not sure why it fixed it but whatever.

 

Id still like to upgrade intake manifolds this winter maybe. Im sure my $100 isn't long for this world.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally bit the bullet and ordered another driveshaft. I was sorta set on ordering a CV style shaft from Driveshaft Shop in NC. They wanted $1300 for one thought so I decided to shop around. I called Columbus Joint & Clutch and talked to Sean about it. He said he could build one but didn't want to. He said he's had to fix or replace all the ones he's seen. He recommended going to a steel 3.5" steel 2 piece shaft. He swears by theirs and says its what he builds for all the pulling truck guys. He said its common for lowered truck guys to come in with vibration/u-joint angle problems and said the 2 piece shafts almost always solve the problem since you can split the angles using 3 ujoints instead of 2. The upside being I shouldn't have any critical speed issues either since the shafts are half as long, and this whole setup was about $600 cheaper than the CV style aluminum setup.

 

So I went ahead and had them build one, I just had to come up with a carrier support and then redo the rear end pinion angle since you set it up to match the front driveshaft angle and not the engine/trans angle.

 

Funny...not funny side note when I picked up the new shaft, I had asked him to reuse the billet pinion yolk along with the spicer ujoint that was new when I had the aluminum shaft built this spring. Sean says, "I didn't reuse that ujoint because 2 of the bearing caps didn't have any grease in them".... :confused: WTF? I said could the grease have gotten pushed out? He says, "no, not likely. we see the spicer ujoints all the time with not enough grease in them. We have to make sure we grease almost everyone of them". Sooo, its very likely this vibration the whole time was at least partially caused by a ujoint the whole time. Who thinks to check a brand new ujoint? Fuuuu...

 

Anyway, here's some pics from the job. Spent most of the weekend on it. I didn't get a chance to drive it as it was late last night and I was filthy and tired. But I think I got it setup very close. Should work out fine for what Im doing. Time for some drag radials right?

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Small update.

 

As far as the new driveshaft is concerned. Its sooo nice. Fixed all the noise and vibration that I was experiencing previously. It runs down the freeway at 80mph with no issues whatsoever. So that's exciting.

 

Ive been noticing some valvetrain noise lately at idle since I got all the exhaust leaks fixed this summer. I initially thought maybe I had the wrong pushrods in the truck. I measured for them when I put the cam in but thought maybe I was wrong. So I pulled a cover and checked 3 different cylinders and everything was spot on.

 

I finally got my head out of the sand and realized my oil pressure at idle cold/hot sits around 20psi. After digging around that seems pretty low for what most guys see on their LS junk. This was through 2 different sensors at different spots on the engine.

 

The couple most common things for low oil pressure on these seem to be the front cam cover and the oil pump pickup oring. I didn't realize the cam cover but specifically remember looking closely at it for any wear or damage. I decided the pickup oring would be the easiest place to start. The truck needed an oil change anyway.

 

Anyway, I got the pan pulled and the pickup loosened up and pulled the oring. Most guys find cracked orings, mine unfortunately was not. It was smaller than the new replacement but didn't look like the cause of the issue. Shucks.

sSd9Y4hl.jpg

 

Well, I put it all back together and fired it up. 40psi of oil pressure at idle.. Amazing. I was baffled that fixed it. And the best part is the valvetrain is quiet now. So nice. Anyway the truck is probably done for the winter. Don't really have anything planned for it unless something falls in my lap.

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  • 5 months later...

Figure Id post a quick update since I havent in a while.

 

Got bored a few weeks ago and filled up with some E85. The flex fuel sensor and the 2 tables I built in the Holley ECU were ready I just never used them. I basically just have it add fuel all across the board depending on what the content is as well as leaning out the AFR just a bit.

 

The truck runs great. You wouldn't even know any different if it wasn't for the corn smell. Cold starts are great and fuel trims are within range. I figure Ill continue to run it during the summer since 93 is pretty pricey right now. And it'll be safer if I decide to lean on it some. I may add a little timing and see how it picks up.

 

Also,

 

I ran into some "free" cash so I made a rash decision and ordered some ET streets for the rear. 275/60r15. They looked way narrower than the 295 street tires. I couldn't even get the bead to seat at work so I had to take them to a tire shop to have the guy use the Cheatah on them. Once mounted they looked fine and Im glad I didnt go any wider because they are taller and sit about as close to the bed lip as the other tires. Anything wider wouldn't work.

 

I took it out tonight for some quick hits and it $hits and gits now. I dont think I quite realized how much tire spin I was getting. Its pretty amazing how this big girl gets moving. Its so easy to drive and no drama whatsoever.

 

Thinking about maybe buying some white Mickey Thompson tire stickers. Thoughts?

 

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I’m not a fan of the white lettering but you do you. I prefer all blackwall and if my tires had white letters I’d flip them

 

Depends on the year and vehicle, but in the end I agree with, "you do you". Do what YOU like. Don't worry about the opinions of others.

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Love it. Do the stickers, f the h8rs

 

Engine Masters on Motor Trend did some tests and E85 on a boosted engine definitely caused IAT to come way down, making more power on the same level of boost.

 

Yeah Ill have to look over some logs and see if I can notice the difference in the data. The A/W system works relatively well so it might not be anything crazy.

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