zeitgeist57 Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 Another problem with my RV...came back from FL on Thursday and noticed backing into my driveway at night that the running lights - from the front/side indicators all the way through clearance lights to the taillights - weren't working. Headlights, brights, indicators, brakelights and back-ups all worked fine. Even instrument cluster lit up. Fuse block is very simple: one 20A fuse for "exterior lights", which was not blown. Pulled it out and replaced it, still no change. The lights all worked on Wednesday. We did drive through a ton of rain through TN and KY on Thursday, and there is a small leak on the roof that needs patched but it's nowhere near any of the roof clearance lights. Not sure when the running lights stopped working. I ordered a new headlight switch on Amazon, because $11 and it's super simple to swap out. Just got it this afternoon, threw it in, and same lighting issues. I can't imagine that even one little blown bulb, or a bad ground would make all the running lights perfectly not work (instead of just one light or even a set of lights, like the tails for example). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 Have you checked for power anywhere with your multimeter, like at the switch, at the fuse, etc... Does this dodge use the old fusible links under the hood? I'm not familiar with 70's dodge motorhomes, lol. I'm guessing that the running lights only come on with the headlight switch, which would be powered separately from the ignition switch, eliminating that possibility?? The running/parking lights could be on a separate circuit from the headlights after the switch, making a bad ground a possibility. How many wires come off the headlight switch you replaced? Can you trace the outgoing power any further? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 I'm surprised at how many diagrams come up with '75 dodge B300 motorhome chassis. Definitely looks like a loose wire after the headlight switch. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillbot Posted August 2, 2020 Report Share Posted August 2, 2020 Start by probing for voltage at the sockets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 http://www.quickmeme.com/img/cb/cb188960a31bc4e49811f9ac633621dc6f3ed4102d45c4f6d0e3bd166f2dfd3d.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Did not google hard enough to find a wiring diagram. I hate diagnosing electrical gremlins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 Sounds like a grounding problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted August 3, 2020 Report Share Posted August 3, 2020 I hate diagnosing electrical gremlins. I love doing this, wish I was there to come over and help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted August 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 FYI, the headlight relay was totally cooked. The wiring harness was a little crunchy too. I don’t know why....guessing that a ‘70s Dodge 2906336 relay can eventually just crap out. Since a replacement was $50+, I got a more generic AR109 relay from NAPA and rewired the factory harness. Everything works as it should now. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted August 16, 2020 Report Share Posted August 16, 2020 Good to hear! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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