MSerfozo Posted October 2, 2022 Report Share Posted October 2, 2022 I'm still having a problem getting my top-end-oiler on the right side to completely seal. I get a drop of oil in about 20 miles, but it's enough to make a mess. I've replaced the copper crush washers a few times and applied differing viscosities of non-hardening sealants (Hylomar and Permatex #2) with a little improvement each time. A couple days ago I went to Iron Pony and bought a set of factory crush washers from Suzuki. The original part number had been superceded and instead of simple copper washers I got the ones pictured. Has anybody ever used a sealing washer like this? It kind of looks like the sealing ring on a spark plug but more opened up. Unless anybody has a better idea, I assume I'll just put it together and crank the shit out of the banjo bolts (until they break, then back off a quarter turn). I might put a dab of Permatex #2 on the sealing faces as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted October 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2022 Here's a closer pic of the application. Arrows point to the sealing locations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted October 2, 2022 Report Share Posted October 2, 2022 I think you should use the new washers and apply the specific torque value listed in the OEM service manual, unless it has also been superseded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonik Posted October 3, 2022 Report Share Posted October 3, 2022 Seems to me they redid the washers for a reason. I would follow standard procedures the first time. They may have fixed your issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted October 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2022 23 hours ago, Pauly said: I think you should use the new washers and apply the specific torque value listed in the OEM service manual, unless it has also been superseded. No torque spec for an aftermarket performance part that's probably 20 years old. I think I'll put it together with the washers and no sealant. I've torqued these bolts enough times to be comfortable with doing it one more (hopefully) time. 1 hour ago, Tonik said: Seems to me they redid the washers for a reason. I would follow standard procedures the first time. They may have fixed your issue. I hope they redesigned the washers for an improved sealing system and not to save a nickel's worth of copper. I'm hopeful that these will seal better. They seem to have a light gray coating on the sealing faces that I think will help them to comply with slight irregularities of the mating surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocat12 Posted October 3, 2022 Report Share Posted October 3, 2022 It's a total loss. Need to get a new bike while you rebuild. Warm it up then torque it with new washers while warm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted October 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2022 1 hour ago, motocat12 said: It's a total loss. Need to get a new bike while you rebuild. Warm it up then torque it with new washers while warm? LOL, I don't need a new bike, I have this one almost exactly like I want it! Until the next mod, anyway... 😎 I've been wondering whether it's better to torque it warm or cold. I decide cold was better with the copper washers sandwiched in there because of different thermal expansion between Cu and Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted October 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2022 A little more Google shows that these are also sold by Suzuki as drain plug washers for models with a 14mm plug. Hope they'll hold under the pressure of my application. I plan to get them swapped later this morning when the garage warms a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MSerfozo Posted October 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2022 Well, shit! Guess I'll try new copper ones again... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanSmith7 Posted February 1, 2023 Report Share Posted February 1, 2023 You must use the new washers and most importantly use the torque value accurately for this you used the list of in the OEM service manual. Then you will see the clear difference. After this you must share the final results of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted February 2, 2023 Report Share Posted February 2, 2023 Totes gonna splode, bruh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.