a bunch of non related questions

[Jamez]

1--I'm pretty sure my clutch is fine but on average how long does a wet clutch normally last ( for the average bike ) I understand every bike is different as to how its driven. And is there any early signs a clutch may need replaced?

2-- I need tires soon. This will be my first set of NEW tires. I assume they are very slick to start with. Aside from doing a quick burnout, how to you scuff up the sides without eating a guard rail in a turn? I assume you go slow for a while.

3--If I was to build a bike from my own creation would I be able to ride it legally? No vin numbers or titles etc..?

4--how long did you have your first bike before you got another one?

5--is there a way to change how much force it takes to squeeze a clutch lever? Cable driven.

6--I ride a sport bike so my carrying space is very limited, but if you keep an emergency kit in the bike what's it composed of. Or if no kit then what do you normally carry. ( no backpack )

I realize these questions are kind of all over the place but I think this is better than separate threads.

Thanks ahead of time

Edited June 3, 2011 by Jamez

[ReconRat]

1. Same as a car, quick rev it in a higher gear at low speed. If it slips, it is bad. (Or badly adjusted.)

2. Yes, slowly, a little bit at a time. But modern tires are not nearly that bad. Just be careful for some miles.

3. Complicated. I think they make you put a VIN number on it.

4. Two years.

5. Try replacing or lubing the clutch cable first.

6. Enough to adjust a chain, or tighten misc bolts/screws.

Edited June 3, 2011 by ReconRat

[imprez55]

1--thirdgen has 200,000+ miles on his stock clutch ('04 f4i), and I have seen them going at 14,000mi as well so I'm not even going to estimate. I am going to say that you (probably) don't have a problem or else you would have noticed. To diagnose: if it is jerky while fully disengaged and shifting gears (1st doesn't count) and/or is jerky under heavy acceleration I would want to pull it and check the plates eventually (not the first thing I would do though).

2-- Go slow for a while is the best advice, you can also use a brillo pad to scuff it if you HAVE to.

3--You can certainty drive it legally, but being a motor vehicle it needs to be titled, registered and plated. It has been a while since I have looked it up, but the BMV website should have your answer so I won't comment about old information.

4--It doesn't really matter; I got my first to learn on and fix up and flip. So mine was only around for 6 months or so. I like different rides and the chase of the buy (and wrenching on different projects), so I am on my 4th bike within 13/14 months.

5--There is a little you can do, but I would say try re-adjusting and lubing it first. Some bikes just have notoriously heavy clutch pulls

6--I carry my cell phone and a list of friends/family I know can help me if necessary. You are a biker, you will be surprised how many will stop and help you if you are visibly in duress. I should ride with a kit, but most of the stranded stories that I have heard/told wouldn't have been fixed by having a toolkit on me. In short, if you are stranded it probably isn't just a loose bolt that you can fix quickly (that should be taken care of with regular maintenance anyway)

[Zach]

3- In ohio you're allowed 1 home built vehicle in your lifetime. You can build it from scratch but you have to document EVERY part that goes on it- receipts for every part, pictures of the build process, etc. They are VERY concerned about people stealing bikes and building a "new" bike out of the parts. You then have to have it inspected by a highway patrol inspection station and meet their requirements. IF you pass inspection, you will be granted a title for the vehicle. You actually create your own VIN number.

[swingset]

1. Most motorcycle clutches will outlast the ownership of the bike, race & offroad bikes excepted.

2. Not all tires are slick new, but if you want to make it easy on yourself just take some sandpaper and go over the tread before installing them. Viola.

3. Zach covered above.

4. Rode my first bike for 4 years.

5. You can change the lever shape, sometimes (depending on bike) adjust for pull at the clutch, or change the clutch spring...but pretty much what you got is what you got. Lubing the cable helps.

6. Emergency kit depends on how far you ride from civilization, and how much repair you want to do roadside. For me, it's a comprehensive kit with a lot of stuff. For a city rider, a credit card and an AMA membership might be all you need. Zip ties, wrenches, vice grips, duct tape can fix a ton of shit.

[Scruit]

1-- No clue. Never worn one out.

2-- Just ride easy. I've had two brands new bikes with brand new tires. It's not like they're covered in grease. Just don't go anywhere near the limit for a while. Or ever, really.

3-- It would have to be registered. Not without a VIN. Start with a VIN'ed frame, just keep the vin plate.

4-- 7 years. Still have my first bike. My riding style changed so I got a bike more fitting that style. (commuting and long trips instead of sunday cruising)

5-- No clue, Sorry

6-- When all else fails, a cellphone and a AAA card with bike coverage. Beyond that, the factory toolkit and a tire plug kit should suffice for most stuff.

[drew95gt]

1. Unless it is seriously slipping or jerking then you should be fine, you will be able to tell if something isn't right.

2. I try and take it easy for the first 100 miles or so on new tires. Be especially careful if you get stuck riding in rain within those first few miles.

3. BMV would have all the answers and paperwork you need...give them a call.

4. My first bike I had for 1 year, it was a Ninja 250.

5. Some bikes you can move the lever around which may help or adjust it for closer reach to take some of the work out of it. Each bike is different though. Lubing the cable as mentioned is a good idea too.

6. I carry the factory Kawasaki tool kit that came with the bike, a tire pressure gauge, small tube of red lock tite, and a mini led flashlight. A cell phone is your best friend if you break down though.

[serpentracer]

1--I'm pretty sure my clutch is fine but on average how long does a wet clutch normally last ( for the average bike ) I understand every bike is different as to how its driven. And is there any early signs a clutch may need replaced?

2-- I need tires soon. This will be my first set of NEW tires. I assume they are very slick to start with. Aside from doing a quick burnout, how to you scuff up the sides without eating a guard rail in a turn? I assume you go slow for a while.

3--If I was to build a bike from my own creation would I be able to ride it legally? No vin numbers or titles etc..?

4--how long did you have your first bike before you got another one?

5--is there a way to change how much force it takes to squeeze a clutch lever? Cable driven.

6--I ride a sport bike so my carrying space is very limited, but if you keep an emergency kit in the bike what's it composed of. Or if no kit then what do you normally carry. ( no backpack )

I realize these questions are kind of all over the place but I think this is better than separate threads.

Thanks ahead of time

1. it should last the life of the bike/ or a very long time if you don't abuse it.

2. you don't...tires only need heat to work.

3. not sure. knowing ohio it would have to be titled.

4. a year

5. yes. different rate clutch springs. but only if they exist for your bike

6. tank bag with at min my cell phone and a tire inflator with some plugs and my tool set that came with the bike.

http://www.slime.com/product/111/Power-Sport-Tire-Inflator-(%2340001).html

[TSB67]

2-- I need tires soon. This will be my first set of NEW tires. I assume they are very slick to start with. Aside from doing a quick burnout, how to you scuff up the sides without eating a guard rail in a turn? I assume you go slow for a while.

Just don't try to drag your elbow out of the parking lot. I've put new tires on at the track and forgot about it in half a lap. After the normal lap and a half it takes to warm them up they were good to go. You encounter planty more on the street to reduce traction than any residual mold release or whatever - just peel the stickers off and ride normal.

[serpentracer]

Just don't try to drag your elbow out of the parking lot. I've put new tires on at the track and forgot about it in half a lap. After the normal lap and a half it takes to warm them up they were good to go. You encounter planty more on the street to reduce traction than any residual mold release or whatever - just peel the stickers off and ride normal.

a rep from pirelli said in a magazine interview no one uses mold release on tires anymore. he said just give them a few miles to heat up and gradually increase the lean angle. no need to worry about what's on the tire and there is no such thing as a 100 mile break in.

the only thing any tire needs to work is heat. heat heat heat.

[chevysoldier]

2) You don't need to scrub the tires anymore, it's more just allowing yourself to get used to the new rubber.

4) Went from a Ninja 250 to my FZR after about 6 months.

6) A .40 caliber.

[Jamez]

More unrelated randomness and thanks again btw

1- I read a lot of threads and see a few people talking about overheating their bikes by sitting in traffic. I thought bikes ( atleast mine does ) had auxilary fans that kick on when temp gets too high. Can the bike still overheat even with the fan or are we just talking bikes without fans?

2- I've flipped through MOM ( manufacturers owners manual ) and can't find anything about lubeing the clutch cable, can someone mabe post a step by step or atleast tell me where to lube? At the handle? At the mechanism?

3- sometimes when I kick into second gear she doesn't want to go and pops back out or I don't fully enguage it. It makes like a clicking noise and I feel the gear pedal bounce or vibrate. Am I just not kicking the lever far enough of mabe I need to adjust clutch cable or could I have another problem?

[NinjaNick]

a rep from pirelli said in a magazine interview no one uses mold release on tires anymore. he said just give them a few miles to heat up and gradually increase the lean angle. no need to worry about what's on the tire and there is no such thing as a 100 mile break in.

the only thing any tire needs to work is heat. heat heat heat.

Todays tires don't need break-in. I install and rape them.

cable lube...use for 5 years and switch to steel lines and you don't have to worry about that. Never lubed and I know one rider that has a 2001 that has never lubed and no issues. I don't care for having to lube lines. Too each their own though.

[Wicked]

Todays tires don't need break-in. I install and rape them.

I've heard there are other things you "violate"

[NinjaNick]

I've heard there are other things you "violate"

Dude! I was a teenager! Man, let it go already!

[chevysoldier]

More unrelated randomness and thanks again btw

1- I read a lot of threads and see a few people talking about overheating their bikes by sitting in traffic. I thought bikes ( atleast mine does ) had auxilary fans that kick on when temp gets too high. Can the bike still overheat even with the fan or are we just talking bikes without fans?

2- I've flipped through MOM ( manufacturers owners manual ) and can't find anything about lubeing the clutch cable, can someone mabe post a step by step or atleast tell me where to lube? At the handle? At the mechanism?

3- sometimes when I kick into second gear she doesn't want to go and pops back out or I don't fully enguage it. It makes like a clicking noise and I feel the gear pedal bounce or vibrate. Am I just not kicking the lever far enough of mabe I need to adjust clutch cable or could I have another problem?

1) My fan kicks on when the needle almost gets to the red. Happens at very slow speeds and sitting at lights. I installed a switch to manually turn the fan on and off. It will still kick on when it gets very hot, but now I can flip it on when I am getting into stop and go traffic and it keeps the temp down.

2)You can get lube from Iron Pony. It will come with a little needle on the bottle. Stick the needle into the cable and let the lube run down.

3) Most bikes clunk when going into second. Just make sure you hit it hard and all the way, don't half shift it or you'll either hit neutral or it will pop out of second back into neutral.

[Scruit]

3- sometimes when I kick into second gear she doesn't want to go and pops back out or I don't fully enguage it. It makes like a clicking noise and I feel the gear pedal bounce or vibrate. Am I just not kicking the lever far enough of mabe I need to adjust clutch cable or could I have another problem?

Both my Suzukis do that. When going 1-2 you gonna make sure you pull the shift lever good and solid or it can click back into neutral.

Maybe you have the shift lever adjusted too high to pull it up all the way?

[demitrix]

1. Never had a bike long enough to have a clutch go out, but i know the R6 I'm on now was raped on by the previous owner and the clutch still holds strong.

2. I just put new tires on this winter, I just rode a lil slower until the tire wasn't shiny anymore. Only takes a few trips.

3. I think it's been pretty well covered. A quick Google search will turn up guides as well. As state though you would be better off to start on a factory frame for ease of registration and knowing that the frame it true/straight and strongly welded, etc.

4. 2 years, I bought an '08 Ninja at the end of '07, sold it at the end of '09 to pick up my R6

5. Buy one of these http://faculty.washington.edu/kepeter/119/images/hand_exerciser.jpg

6. Not really a tool kit but look into signing up for this. http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/Membership/AMARoadsideAssistance.aspx

[TSB67]

More unrelated randomness and thanks again btw

1- I read a lot of threads and see a few people talking about overheating their bikes by sitting in traffic. I thought bikes ( atleast mine does ) had auxilary fans that kick on when temp gets too high. Can the bike still overheat even with the fan or are we just talking bikes without fans?

I don't know what people mean by "overheat," maybe they're just afraid of seeing 200s on the temp gauge. On my CBR the fan kicks on around 221 and shuts back off at 215. Temp drops really quick when the fan kicks on. If the temp continued to rise over 221 with the fan on, I would consider that a problem. If the bike starts spitting coolant out the overflow, then you really have a problem.

2- I've flipped through MOM ( manufacturers owners manual ) and can't find anything about lubeing the clutch cable, can someone mabe post a step by step or atleast tell me where to lube? At the handle? At the mechanism?

I don't lube cables. I don't think you're supposed to anymore. If I suspect the cable isn't moving properly due to either wear or contamination I'll replace it.

3- sometimes when I kick into second gear she doesn't want to go and pops back out or I don't fully enguage it. It makes like a clicking noise and I feel the gear pedal bounce or vibrate. Am I just not kicking the lever far enough of mabe I need to adjust clutch cable or could I have another problem?

It could be you, an improper adjustment, or a terminal problem. I learned to continue to hold the shifter up while releasing the clutch to ensure positive engagement. Maybe that's how your supposed to do it, but when I started riding I would let the shifter return before releasing the clutch. If you "make like a clicking noise" too many times you end up rounding off the gear dogs, and it's a vicious circle from there until it won't stay in gear anymore.