Scruit Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 So, it's looking like I won't be able to ride or drive stick for up to 3 months (maybe more depending on recovery time) because of my broken left ankle. I'll know for sure weds of next week, but I'm not hopeful for this riding season.Anyway, I have a rented car (automatic) for 2 weeks that's costing me $250/wk. If I extend this out to 3mo then it works out to be $2,500.If I truly can't drive my stickshift for up to 3 months then rather than renting a car for 3mo (or trading my car for an auto - I'd rather cut my balls off) I figure I'd be best off simply buying a ~$2k car from CL.I do a lot of work on cars (frame-up restos etc) so I'm sure I can get a decent car that will run well. Don't care what it looks like as long as it's reliable for my 50mi daily commute.Once I'm fit enough to drive my stick I'd sell the car for hopefully not much less than I paid for it. The difference in buying price and selling price will be a shitload less than $2500, I gaurantee that.Been looking on CL and I see a BUNCH of CRAP, but I see some good stuff too. My plan is to have $2k cash waiting and to jump on any decent car I see - call/visit as soon as it's posted. Saw a couple of good cars tonight. A female college student selling a 2000 Taurus for ~$2k. Perfect. Just need to avoid all the "A/C needs charged" (meaning A/C is hemmoragin r134 through the fucked compressor) or "Takes a while to shift" (meaning new transmission needed before I get it home)Anyone see any problems with my logic? The intent is not to buy a vehicle I'd have for a long time, just 3mo of commuting. The only things I will be a hardass on are:- Must be a non-smoking car. My wife is deathly allergic to cig smoke, even residual- Must be auto. That's the whole point, right?- Must have no current problems with the drivetrain.- Must have no "just needs...." problems that probably just mask a bigger problem. Your Jeep needs an A/C charge? No, it needs a new evaporator, $1,400 labor please.- Must be ready to drive. I'm not doing a head gasket job with my foot in an aircast regardless of how much under book value it is.Other than that I'm easy. Any make/model/style considered. I'm not out to pull chicks and I'm not going to fall into the trap of going for a $2k 1998 BMW which is probably going to have some expensive problems versus a 1998 $2k taurus which is ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 So, it's looking like I won't be able to ride or drive stick for up to 3 months (maybe more depending on recovery time) because of my broken left ankle. I'll know for sure weds of next week, but I'm not hopeful for this riding season.Anyway, I have a rented car (automatic) for 2 weeks that's costing me $250/wk. If I extend this out to 3mo then it works out to be $2,500.If I truly can't drive my stickshift for up to 3 months then rather than renting a car for 3mo (or trading my car for an auto - I'd rather cut my balls off) I figure I'd be best off simply buying a ~$2k car from CL.I do a lot of work on cars (frame-up restos etc) so I'm sure I can get a decent car that will run well. Don't care what it looks like as long as it's reliable for my 50mi daily commute.Once I'm fit enough to drive my stick I'd sell the car for hopefully not much less than I paid for it. The difference in buying price and selling price will be a shitload less than $2500, I gaurantee that.Been looking on CL and I see a BUNCH of CRAP, but I see some good stuff too. My plan is to have $2k cash waiting and to jump on any decent car I see - call/visit as soon as it's posted. Saw a couple of good cars tonight. A female college student selling a 2000 Taurus for ~$2k. Perfect. Just need to avoid all the "A/C needs charged" (meaning A/C is hemmoragin r134 through the fucked compressor) or "Takes a while to shift" (meaning new transmission needed before I get it home)Anyone see any problems with my logic? The intent is not to buy a vehicle I'd have for a long time, just 3mo of commuting. The only things I will be a hardass on are:- Must be a non-smoking car. My wife is deathly allergic to cig smoke, even residual- Must be auto. That's the whole point, right?- Must have no current problems with the drivetrain.- Must have no "just needs...." problems that probably just mask a bigger problem. Your Jeep needs an A/C charge? No, it needs a new evaporator, $1,400 labor please.- Must be ready to drive. I'm not doing a head gasket job with my foot in an aircast regardless of how much under book value it is.Other than that I'm easy. Any make/model/style considered. I'm not out to pull chicks and I'm not going to fall into the trap of going for a $2k 1998 BMW which is probably going to have some expensive problems versus a 1998 $2k taurus which is ready to go.I may know of something for you. I'll have to check the former smoking status on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew95gt Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 Look for an older Civic or Accord, preferably one that isn't rusted to shit. They make awesome beater cars and are dead reliable. Plus you will be able to get your money back out of them no problem. I will keep my eyes open for you, if I see anything I will send it your way. Hope your ankle heals quick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 I'm a Japanese car fan. Had Subaru and Nissan and found them to be bulletproof if looked after. Had a Taurus/Jeep and they were alway breaking. Our Grand Prix was solid though. I'd take a clean Civic/Accord/Corolla/Camry/Maxima in a heartbeat. Domestics are cheaper so I can get a newer one. Want to avoid "nice" cars for that price range because they are probably BTS. No Camaro/Firebird/Mustang etc. They're that cheap because there's somethign wrong with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buildit Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 I wish you luck, I have found when you need to find a cheap good vehicle you can't find one. When you least need it or can afford one they are on every corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedytriple Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 A guy I work with is looking to get rid of his saturn 2 door think it is auto.will check with him on thurs. he was talking about 1800 for it runs good from what he said but is in cleveland area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 go buy a piaggio mp3 no need to put your feet down and better than a cage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bad324 Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 No Camaro/Firebird/Mustang etc. They're that cheap because there's somethign wrong with them.for the most part yes, but I've bought and seen a handful of 3rd gen F-bodys for 2-3k that were solid cars. My IROC was 2k with 130k miles and really didn't need anything but a detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Butters Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) **edit Edited June 23, 2011 by Steve Butters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magley64 Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 need ac? (who cares if the evap is screwed? that's what windows are for) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 *I* don't need A/C but my 7yo will commute with me and I don't want to cook him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) So I bought a cheap car. '89 Park Avenue for $1400, everything works except the A/C which is R12 so would cost $250 to charge so I'm leaving it alone (may do the cheap R34a conversion, we'll see). Other than that everything works great, just an old beater car.But now I'm having buyer's remorse. I managed to convince myself last night that the doc is going to tell me on wednesday that I don't need a cast or a brace and can drive stickshift again immediately.But I have also convinced myself that if I *don't* buy a spare car then the doc will tell me I'm gonna be in a cast for 3 months and renting for that long would cost much more.After reading online about ankle recovery time and finding out from my doc that I have a grade 3 sprain with complete tearing and an avulsion fracture I expect I'll be in a cast for 4-6 weeks, then in an air cast for 4-6 weeks after that. This sucks. Edited June 25, 2011 by Scruit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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