How would you guys get this off?

[jester3681]

Doing a little maintenance on the Sable, and I'd like to clean the EGR tube. Getting an EGR code and I want to eliminate this before I spend money on anything else ($3 gasket if I'rm ight, $80+ parts if I'm wrong - the old Maximas had a similar design and had this problem). Having some trouble getting the tube out, thought I'd bounce it off you tech-minded guys. Pic's worth a thousand words:

I can obviously get the top of the tube off, just by removing the EGR valve. I can't for the life of me think of how to get the bottom off. It threads into the rear exhaust manifold, nut is about 7/8" +/-. I can get a wrench on it, but can't really turn it. I was thinking of a tie-rod end type tool, but my biggest one is 17mm. Once it's out, I'll put some anti-seize on it and it will be much easier to get in, so I'm not concerned about that. Thoughts?

Edited October 25, 2011 by jester3681

[MidgetTodd]

Soak it in wd40, let it run to get nice and hot, soak again. Then remove while hot, a crows foot wrench may be usefull.

[BadTrainDriver]

PB Blaster.

Soak it.

Do it a few days in a row.

MAP torch heat it.

Use a brake line wrench.

Anti Seeze most likely won't help for the future...it'll burn off.

Good luck buddy!

[BadTrainDriver]

Edited.

Edited October 25, 2011 by BadTrainDriver

[jester3681]

Soak it in wd40, let it run to get nice and hot, soak again. Then remove while hot, a crows foot wrench may be usefull.

My thoughts exactly - well, PB Blaster - anyone know if AutoZone loans out crows foot wrenches? Like I said, my biggest one is too small. I need to put the old gauge on there and get an exact measuement of the size.

[JStump]

some lotion, a dirty mag and some firm tugging

[20thGix]

Don't forget the best tool of them all PROFANITY! And lots of it!

[Joey614]

some lotion, a dirty mag and some firm tugging

[chevysoldier]

How would you guys get this off?

Buy a Chevy.

[jester3681]

Buy a Chevy.

We all can't drive a Malibu... wait, even YOU can't drive a Malibu because the cam broke Sorry, had to do it.

[chevysoldier]

We all can't drive a Malibu... wait, even YOU can't drive a Malibu because the cam broke Sorry, had to do it.

ha...ha...ha. Yeah I sold it and bought a 4 banger Corolla. Better gas mileage.

[Hoblick]

waiting for the

*the pipe twisted and broke, now what do i do* post

[jester3681]

waiting for the

*the pipe twisted and broke, now what do i do* post

I'm hoping we won't have that.... I ordered a crows foot wrench of the proper size, we'll give it the old college try when that gets here. Luckily, mine isn't as rusty even as the one in the picture I included (found on internet), so I don't anticipte much trouble with the pipe itself, just the fitting.

[jporter12]

What code does it have? Those tubes usually don't plug up. If there's a problem, it would be more likely to be in the aluminum plenum. The most common failure of the EGR system on a Ford, by a HUGE margin, is the DPFE sensor, which is the unit connected to that tube by 2 silicon hoses, used to detect the flow through the tube.

[jester3681]

What code does it have? Those tubes usually don't plug up. If there's a problem, it would be more likely to be in the aluminum plenum. The most common failure of the EGR system on a Ford, by a HUGE margin, is the DPFE sensor, which is the unit connected to that tube by 2 silicon hoses, used to detect the flow through the tube.

Yeah, I've seen that... just checking the tube before I order anything else. My car sat a lot before I bought it, so it would have an opportunity to build up.

[jporter12]

You might try just taking it loose at the top and start the car to see how much exhaust blows out of it. While you're at it, you can take the EGR valve off and see if the passages look clean in the plenum, all without bothering that bottom fitting.

[Scruit]

Check the resistance of the coils first. That's where I've seen EGR valves fail and set codes. Not sure that a blocked EGR would set a code unless the pintle was stuck - and then I've expect a EVP code (EGR Valve Position sensor) instead.

PB, wait, PB, wait. Repeat for a week, then take it off. Try a short-handled wrench

[jporter12]

Check the resistance of the coils first. That's where I've seen EGR valves fail and set codes. Not sure that a blocked EGR would set a code unless the pintle was stuck - and then I've expect a EVP code (EGR Valve Position sensor) instead.

PB, wait, PB, wait. Repeat for a week, then take it off. Try a short-handled wrench

Ok, I just looked this up on one of the resources that I have available to me, and the passages in the intake are what is the MOST common cause of an EGR flow code on those engines with the aluminum intake plenum. Take off the EGR valve, leave the tube alone, clean out the plenum and you'll be good to go. The test for this is to supply vacuum to the EGR valve (hand held vacuum pump, bypass the solenoid, manually energize the solenoid, etc...) and see if the engine stumbles. If it doesn't, you probably need to clean the passages. If it does, then you have either a DPFE sensor problem, or you're not getting vacuum to the EGR valve, due to a broke hose, bad solenoid, bad signal to the solenoid, etc...

Hope this helps!

If you have a code for the DPFE, then you need to replace that.

[Scruit]

Vulcan engines.

[jester3681]

Ok, I just looked this up on one of the resources that I have available to me, and the passages in the intake are what is the MOST common cause of an EGR flow code on those engines with the aluminum intake plenum. Take off the EGR valve, leave the tube alone, clean out the plenum and you'll be good to go. The test for this is to supply vacuum to the EGR valve (hand held vacuum pump, bypass the solenoid, manually energize the solenoid, etc...) and see if the engine stumbles. If it doesn't, you probably need to clean the passages. If it does, then you have either a DPFE sensor problem, or you're not getting vacuum to the EGR valve, due to a broke hose, bad solenoid, bad signal to the solenoid, etc...

Hope this helps!

If you have a code for the DPFE, then you need to replace that.

Thanks man! I figured it was carbon buildup somewhere - I'll check this next time I have a chance to wrench. I don't remember the code I pulled off hand, but it was EGR system efficiency or something like that - just a basic, "your EGR is fucked up" type code. Any way you slice it, I have to break one of the bolts on the tube loose - I did eBay a 1 1/6" crows foot to get it loose. I'll start at the top and work my way down.

[jporter12]

Thanks man! I figured it was carbon buildup somewhere - I'll check this next time I have a chance to wrench. I don't remember the code I pulled off hand, but it was EGR system efficiency or something like that - just a basic, "your EGR is fucked up" type code. Any way you slice it, I have to break one of the bolts on the tube loose - I did eBay a 1 1/6" crows foot to get it loose. I'll start at the top and work my way down.

If you can, grab the code again before tearing into it, I may be able to save you some time/headaches! (I do this stuff everyday, for a "living")

[Gixxus Christ!]

Pblaster is ok but kano kroil is the best penetrating lubricant out there, blows pb away. Wd40 isn't even a penetrant or a lubricant for that matter, it was designed to prevent rust and displace water. You can get kroil at welding shops and some finer hardware stores.

[jester3681]

If you can, grab the code again before tearing into it, I may be able to save you some time/headaches! (I do this stuff everyday, for a "living")

I apprciate it - I spent 10 years in automotive before I came out on the railroad, but I appreciate any advice. Code self-cleared... bah! I still would like to get in there and poke around.