Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I have 4" solid plastic corrugated pipe draining a pond. It has a leak around 6 to 8 inches below the top of the pipe. There are actually two drains next to each other. The pipes come up from middle depth of the dam, runs under the dam to the other side. The water level has dropped to the level of the crack in the pipe. The pond is small, maybe 60 by 60, so it makes a big difference. I'm not sure how to go about it. Any wonder goo's out there that work under water and can resist the pressure until it sets up.This is the type of pipe. http://www.lowes.com/pd_24137-124-04510100H_0__?productId=3306086&Ntt=black+corrugated+pipe&pl=1¤tURL=&facetInfo= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikAccord Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Plumbers putty and duct tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Radiator sealer? JB weld? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikAccord Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Plastic welder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Plastic welder? It needs to be a permanent repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikAccord Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I'm not talking about a two part epoxy mix. I mean an actual plastic welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Cut the bad section out and re connect it with a connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buildit Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 With plastic corrugated pipe like they use in field drainage tilling it is usually a replacement issue as there is no permanent fix (at least none the farmers I know use). As a temp patch I would try using a trash bag to plug the leak till the pond can be drained and the pipe replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I'm not talking about a two part epoxy mix. I mean an actual plastic welder.I would go with this if you can get your hands on one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) With plastic corrugated pipe like they use in field drainage tilling it is usually a replacement issue as there is no permanent fix (at least none the farmers I know use). As a temp patch I would try using a trash bag to plug the leak till the pond can be drained and the pipe replaced.Agree but draining is not really an option the pipe goes underground under the dam. The stuff's so thin and the corrugated part makes it worse. The cutting it and putting on a connector idea might work but the connectors are a sloppy fit unless there was a really good waterproof sealant I could use.This is before it sprung a leak. The pipe under the fish. The pipes are about 3' off shore. The smaller pipes coming out of the water are steel and just there to hold the plastic pipe vertical. It sprung a leak where the rope is tied to both, plastic and steel pipe. Edited August 24, 2012 by Gump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuikAccord Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Like say maybe silicone caulk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 A fernco. Get a 6"X 4' peice of sdr 35 and 6"to 4" rubber fernco. slide the bigger 6" pipe over the 4" pipe you have and tighten fernco. theen fill the gap between 4" pipe and 6" pipe with a product called water plug. All of this should be at lowes. If not you will have to look for a sewer place like win nelson or dicount drainage or hues supply. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Or just get a fernco and cover the crack. I think a clay to clay 4" fernco will slide over a corrigated 4" pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Fernco might work! Good idea. I'll have to check it out at the hardware store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixxie750 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 If u cant find one let me know. U really need to swim out and get the OD of the pipe at a rib. that way u will know which one to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Good idea. I doubt the OD is actually 4". I have some corrugated pipe laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buildit Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I had one idea. If you took some 12 inch pipe and feed it around the leaking pipe as far into the ground as possible you might be able to pump out the water and then pour concrete between the two. The concrete and 12 in pipe would be a permanent addition but it would add stability to the narrow pip and hopefully seal it. Depending on how deep the bend is you could even try a steel pipe around it down into the soil beneath. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysix Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 dangit I wanted to post this! FTW!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) Basics: that's a polyethylene pipe (or polypropylene), and not much will stick to it for adhesives.But 3M did come out with this recently:3M's Scotch-WeldTM Structural Plastic Adhesive DP-8005 & DP-8010http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4374This stuff is not cheap...edit: I see some suggestions that a hot glue gun with polyethylene sticks will work.Also suggested that "Goop" brand adhesive will work. Edited August 24, 2012 by ReconRat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I had one idea. If you took some 12 inch pipe and feed it around the leaking pipe as far into the ground as possible you might be able to pump out the water and then pour concrete between the two. The concrete and 12 in pipe would be a permanent addition but it would add stability to the narrow pip and hopefully seal it. Depending on how deep the bend is you could even try a steel pipe around it down into the soil beneath.Do this, but fill the void with hole plug. You can pour it right into water as long as it doesn't leak out the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gump Posted August 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Not sure about this idea yet. I'm worried the. Weight of the pipe and mix might crush or crack the pipe at the bottom. I'm not sure if the pipe bends at dirt level or below. If well below dirt level it should work and actuall be more permanent as I think these pipes breakdown faster above ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron505 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 I don't have any more good suggestions, and that sucks that your having this issue, but why in the hell would some SOB use corrigated pipe for a pond overflow......geesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Corrugated pipe with smooth liner is common practice for us on anything 12" or larger. I'm kind of shocked PVC wasn't used for a 4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max power Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Not sure about this idea yet. I'm worried the. Weight of the pipe and mix might crush or crack the pipe at the bottom. I'm not sure if the pipe bends at dirt level or below. If well below dirt level it should work and actuall be more permanent as I think these pipes breakdown faster above ground.time to go diving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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