madcat6183 Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Dont listen to the angry ginger, just grab some duct tape and go at it. If you can't duct tape it, then cut it off, who needs that crap anyways. Or do it right like Brandon said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 So after a little inspection it looks like the wiring harness is in pretty good shape. Connections that were removed before, or I took out today includeFront signalsHeadlightsLeft handlebar switch assembly, the male connector has a jumper installed for the clutch switchSpeed sensor is not present, but the connector is still on the harnessRear brake switch is deletedSide stand switch is deleted and wires shorted(need to pull this apart and make sure it is soldered and not just twist and tape)The 5 pairs of disconnect crimp connectors pictured earlier are for the right handlebar switch. Two wires are for the front brake switch, which I believe should be OK to disconnect as well. That leaves 3 wires for the stop switch and starter button. There is supposed to be a connector in this spot, so I'm tempted to leave the disconnect crimp connectors on there and re-route the harness under the frame. It is either that or solder it and have to snip the wires if I ever need to get it apart.Now where it gets weird; there are two additional heavy gauge wires coming from the handlebar switch, one orange and red the other yellow and white. They were not connected to anything other than the right handlebar switch, just in the giant ball of tape. I've looked through the wire diagram and the only O/R I see is for the cooling fan and the Y/W is for a for the passing light switch....neither of which go to the right handle bar switch. I'm just going to leave the two wires as is and keep it in mind if I have any issues in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRMN8TR Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 You are correct, you can remove the brake switch. All it does is trigger the brake lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Thanks for verifying, I snipped off the connectors off and taped the leads. Also and rerouted the wiring under the frame and routed the main harness up the left side of the bike like it is from the factory. Going to install some of the stuff that came in the mail and maybe take a look at the glass that need repaired on the fairings sets....then think about some rattlecan colors to throw on this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Does this look OK for mounting the shock res? Wasn't really sure how close it would come to hitting the swingarm, but the photos were taken with the rear compressed 41mm measured over the axle nut. Plan on punching a couple holes through the battery tray and zip tying it in place. I have some silicone rubber sheet that I'll probably put on there as well to keep it from sliding at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 It looks very close to where mine is mounted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I thought yours was pretty similar Jeff, remembered you were adjusting it at PIRC. The battery tray has a flap that comes down just forward of the res in the pictures. Can't move the shock in front of that flap because the line will not conform. I can cut the flap off and move the res further forward, but it wouldn't be as solid of a mount as using the battery tray and that flap as a V block to hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Is there a lot of tension on the resivor hose? It looks like it is pulled too tight from the shock itself. Personally I would fab something to mount like inside the batter tray and move that thing forward just looks too close to swingarm and too far from the shock itself. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRMN8TR Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Also you will want to remove that brush from between the shock and swingarm. It will probably get pinched if you keep it right thurr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Also you will want to remove that brush from between the shock and swingarm. It will probably get pinched if you keep it right thurr.Yeah, drop it like it's hott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Mine is held on by screws into to battery box using hose clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 The hose is about as relaxed as it gets. Moving forward or back puts a little strain on the line, leads me to believe that the previous owner had the res in this position. I tried rotating the shock around so the fitting was on the other side, but nothing worked. I'll take another look and probably hack the plastic off to move it forward slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 The hose is about as relaxed as it gets. Moving forward or back puts a little strain on the line, leads me to believe that the previous owner had the res in this position. I tried rotating the shock around so the fitting was on the other side, but nothing worked. I'll take another look and probably hack the plastic off to move it forward slightly.K just couldnt tell with the pic angle, I dunno, I think my rear compresses more than the girth of that brush, but I am fat with a soft spring. Man I hate being fat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 FUCK!Changing front brake pads one of the small alen bolt that hold the pads in stripped. It partially stripped, but the wrench still had good bite. So I used a torch to try and expand the ear on the housing the holds the bolt, but it fully stripped without budging. Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do. Thinking of drilling it out to relieve stress leaving just the threads, then trying to back it out using vice grips on the shaft that holds the pads in place. The bolt is recessed, so cutting a slot in it wont work.So pissed. It looks like whoever put this thing together put construction glue(caulk) as lock tite and on top of the heads bolts. That in addition to over torquing every fucking fastener on the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcat6183 Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 That is silicone, which is an alternative to safety wiring and only permitted on some bolts. It's best to try to get that scraped off before doing what you did. Just and FYI for later, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 oh no, it was scraped off completely, including using an exacto blade to get into the very top thread. I don't believe it is silicone because it is rock solid, exactly like construction adhesive becomes....I've actually used the stuff on my trailer as an alternative to lock nuts when bolting the decking on. Also, whatever it was they used is also in the threads and made its way behind some of the bolts.I'm going to grind down the next size up standard size allen so it has a slight taper and can be hammered into the stripped bolt. See if that in addition to some heat can get this out. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll have to drill it. I can get easy outs from work, but I think it will snap off before getting this thing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Well, larger sized allen ground down didn't work. It was gripping good and I heated the casting....but the damn thing is in there good. Drilled out the bolt, to my surprise it was a pretty nice job, the tops of the aluminum threads were visible a little over 1/2 around with not much meat left on the other side.. I was able to pick off the very top thread, but nothing more. Bent back the spring retainers for the pads and used a pair of vice grips on the pin....just ended up cutting down the diameter of the pin. I was thinking of taking it to work and putting a helicoil in, but I think we only have standard sets. Looked on ebay and found a set of calipers for $35 and scooped them up. Oh well, wasted too much time already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Bring it to NL next weekend and I'll see if I can get it fixed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Z. Heimer Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Ryan. It's no help to you now but the next time an Allen bolt is wanting to strip out get a torx bit and hammer it into the socket. That along with a good hand impact driver has saved my bacon a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted April 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Thanks for the advice Jerry; I've used that technique before, but didn't have any torx bits large enough. I did also try hammering a flat blade screw driver in, but it ended up stripping out as well. Really thought the ground down allen would take it out, because as it was hammered in it cut out the chip from the original one stripping. I didn't even think to use my electric impact, that might have loosened it up initially.Jeff, if you want to mess with it I'll bring it. Might take it to work and see if the next size drill bit does anything. In any case, I'll need a replacement pad pin, which OEM is $20 each and probolt is $10 before shipping or 35 for a safety wire set....thats why I just ordered the ebay caliper set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Thanks for the advice Jerry; I've used that technique before, but didn't have any torx bits large enough. I did also try hammering a flat blade screw driver in, but it ended up stripping out as well. Really thought the ground down allen would take it out, because as it was hammered in it cut out the chip from the original one stripping. I didn't even think to use my electric impact, that might have loosened it up initially.Jeff, if you want to mess with it I'll bring it. Might take it to work and see if the next size drill bit does anything. In any case, I'll need a replacement pad pin, which OEM is $20 each and probolt is $10 before shipping or 35 for a safety wire set....thats why I just ordered the ebay caliper set.Yeah,I see your point there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted May 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Still so much to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 I'm in the same boat !Trailers not finished,bikes still apart ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted May 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Got a decent amount of stuff done; could have been a lot more, but bleeding the front brakes from a dry system took too damn long.Change oilAdd water/wetterRe-bleed the front brakes after they settleInstall chainExchange exhaust from street bike to track bike temporarily....bumped the can and it sounded like it is rotten out inside or somethingInstall new chain and sprockets(could get by without this if necessary)Install rear wheelChange fluid in rear brake/bleedInstall plasticsLoad everything up and head out Friday after work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted May 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2013 I'm in the same boat !Trailers not finished,bikes still apart !Trailer finished yet? I'd offer to help you out, but I haven't set mine up to haul 2 bikes yet. On another note, don't let coworkers convince you to go golf when you have the above list of shit to do....Well maybe if they offer to pay for golf and help you work on your bike after. Bike is ready to go, but nothing else is. Trailer is still folded, generator is in my living room, need to select the tools and supplies to take with me "just in case"....I'll have about 2 hours to get that stuff taken care of tomorrow before heading off to NL....guess I actually mean today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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