ReconRat

One day Iron Butt, 4 fuel stops, 20 hours plus stops, ride only Ohio, and Iron Pony can be the witness. There are better Iron Butt routes that take less time... View Google Map

Comments on the video say he was pushing a foregrip forward and it came off. Putting the edge of his hand into the line of fire.

Or it's the wrong cover or something. It just seems like a bad design for it to be that close on the clearances. Weird...

All three work. I lean toward the gray one. Seen too many red jackets...

Approximately zero The stupid tiny rock has the super powers. It should have burned up and/or fragmented on impact. Turned to powder even. He better keep that super rock in his pocket forever... Lots of people read "head", it says "hand". And it missed, it never hit him. The heat and shock wave hit him. It missed. The heat from the miss scorched a streak on his hand. You can see it in the picture. The shallow crater on the pavement is where it hit. Heat and spalling of the surface material is visible. It was hauling ass. If it had hit him there wouldn't have been much left. Objects that make it to the ground from space can be moving as high as Mach 50+. That's 37,500+ mph. I don't want to mess with the calculations (since the velocity is unknown), but the energy released on impact with the street, must have been about the same as a 1/4 stick of dynamite going off. Just enough to knock him down. Anymore than that and he'd be deaf or dead. From a miss.

On a 2006 Suzuki, the engine s/n matches the frame s/n. So maybe could get a peek at the engine number.

http://www.space.com/news/090612-boy-hit-by-meteorite.html#comments This was back in June. I'm just now seeing it. Tiny little meteorite... The comments section question whether such a tiny little rock could knock the kid down. Depends on how fast it was going. A shock wave might do it. A study after WW2 determined that bombs dropped close to a ship caused more damage than actually hitting the ship. Both the hydraulic shock in the water, and the actual explosive impact abeam. Future studies determined that a 500 pound dumb object dropped from space, would sink a ship if it hit the water anywhere nearby. Approximately Mach 6. Which is around 4500 mph. Soooo, calculating what size object might knock a kid down from a shock wave at Mach 6... *crunching numbers* ok, one tenth of a gram.... the shock wave from a near miss from a tiny 1/10 gram rock at Mach 6 or higher would easily knock a person down. I cheated a bit, I used the weight of an aircraft carrier. But that's the prime target, so it's not far fetched... considering you need Mach 20 to get off the Earth into orbit...

You'all don't get it. These might all be class projects. And he's getting us to do his homework for him.

ummm, just read the article. They are talking about a lot of extra weight. A bunch of structural and sound deadening add ons everywhere. I wonder just how much weight...

No, that that I've seen, but you can get nice sheepskin seat covers. And I'm going to buy one, (black), for those ultra long rides. Was researching gel vs memory foam, and realized sheepskin is cheaper and better. And for the fanatics, there are gel/memory foam/sheepskin combos... hijack finished...

oh Hell, just put fur on it and move on... heheh http://www.furrybikes.com/ MOO!

lol, wake up there. If he paints the "tank cover", be sure to use a fuel proof paint.

I've never tried a clear coat over flat black. But there are semi-gloss or "non-specular" type gloss black you can use. The paint on my 919 isn't gloss and isn't flat. It's a matt semi-gloss clear coat over black that is a pain in butt, I bet. I think it's called a semi-gloss (or mat) eggshell clear coat. (Honda paint code NH436) The Colorrite disclaimer says the one step won't hold up as well as the mat eggshell clear coat. There's both a one step mat black that matches it pretty close and a system of semi-gloss clear coat for use over primary coat. It was used by Honda in 2002 and 2003 and 2004. (Called Asphalt Black) one step mat finish flat black color coat: http://www.colorrite.com/product/honda-nh436-asphalt-1404.cfm eggshell mat finish clear coat (KK8) for over a gloss primary color coat (urethane clear coat): http://www.colorrite.com/product/eggshell-urethane-clearcoat-pint-kit-1066.cfm http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk8-eggshell-clearcoat-kit-1008.cfm The one step is for matching existing eggshell paint jobs, since it's hard to match up. And the mat clear coat is for painting it all from scratch. I have no idea what the mat clear looks like over any other color other than black. Never seen it done, but the eggshell mat finish is recently popular. I'm sure there are some used by other manufacturers. One more thing, if you paint the tank, use a paint or clear coat that is fuel proof. edit: There are also clearcoat systems that will produce an eggshell, satin, or semi-gloss finish, depending on which of three types of additives are mixed in with the clearcoat. Sherman-Williams example (PDF) ok, the pdf locks up my computer, try this quick view instead: Quick view

This is the only place on line I know of to check a VIN for stolen. (for free). It's an Insurance Group website. Somebody posted it last year. But that link is broken. This is the current link: VINCheckSM If you suspect a VIN is coming up stolen, you'll need to make a report . (Preferably a written disposition.) With the report, the PD can then act upon the evidence.

DefRev Photo Analysis: U.S. Secret Service PPD CAT Operator Tactical Hardware Trunk Monkey

Messing around...

How extensive is the damage? I'm asking because it's probably more practical to restore the busted parts. And the resale value holds up better that way. Deciding factor might be how much the stickers and decals are going to cost, if they have to be replaced. That holds true for a complete paint job also. The vinyl stickers/decals are expensive. It's a 1996, so I suppose it doesn't matter much either way. Most bikes eventually get painted and do without the original markings. Ok, black is nice, but it's a difficult color to paint up. I wouldn't think so, I mean it's black. But it's touchy about temperature and humidity when it's painted. And often black paint cracks a year or two later. Funky spider cracks all over the places where it was too thick or coats applied too soon. Ok, most of my experience is with lacquers, enamels might be easier in some ways. But anyway, if it were me, I'd consider restoring the paint on any parts worth keeping, and trying to come up with something interesting but different from stock, for the parts that need the paint and repair. And skip the expensive stickers/decals, but maybe use some low cost stuff. There's a ton of aftermarket stickers/decals to use. Something that works with the stock parts that are ok. So that would be mostly black and the stock red color. Adding accents of yellow and orange would work well for a harmonious color scheme. Optional would be adding purple and blue to the basic red. If you really want to paint the entire bike (but not the frame), I'd think that the large area of silver frame showing, would work with a two tone blue scheme, or a bronze/gold kind of thing. The original red and black works too. The silver is a neutral color, so any color paint should work ok.

Ok, reality is.... the Slone family probably already spent the $250,000 they didn't have yet. And are screwed if they don't get it. So sad... And the whole deal is kinda stupid. It's not hard to trace a car. dunno...

HA! I haven't seen one of those for years... That's right, it's an oldie... But still cool... Interesting to have plans to build one yourself. *googling*

That's a hoot. I love all types of 3D movies. We should build a Tron bike. Somebody find us some balloon tires to fit up.

There used to be an IHOP on OSU North campus. Good for early morning weekend breakfast. Yum.

Business or accounting major, or both. That's where you're headed if you want to do this. Stick with it, it's a slow steady process to build up progress toward owning your own business.

We've all done it. The C-clamp works on the calipers that "one side rides on rods or bolts". It won't work on floating calipers, where the entire caliper moves as one piece. (edit: unless there's a way to get that C-clamp in there on the backside of the pad opposite the piston.) For floating calipers you'll be prying the pads apart. As said, relieve the pressure by opening the caliper bleeder valve, and begin pushing the pistons back. Use the clear drain hose to prevent brake fluid on everything, and to be able to see your progress. Slow steady pressure is what you want to use. The piston will move, but slowly. Push on the pad or piston, and hold the force on it, it will move slowly back. At some point you will be able to remove the pads to make it easier. Then you can put it back over the rotor and just lean or pull on it with both hands to make the piston move back. Try to keep the pads oriented so they go back in the same places, the same way. Do not get brake fluid on the pads or rotors. Typical is not pushing the piston(s) back far enough when installing new pads. Then it's the remove one or both pads, or install the old pads again, and put the caliper back on the rotor. Push more to fully retract the piston. My rear brake can be moved without opening a caliper bleeder valve. Just loosening the fluid reservoir cap will work for that. Push harder and longer. (She said) I've actually had the brake pads close up, on their own, while I wasn't looking. duh me. Ever since then I work a little faster, or put something between the pads while I'm working.

I call bullshit. There's so much wrong in this thread I can't begin. I will say "go to college". You might then know what "liquid assets" might be, what a good business model would be, and why restaurants as businesses usually fail. And why "hard work for myself when I wouldn't do it for someone else" won't cut it. And for God's sake use a spell checker. Your grammar and spelling are roughly 6th grade level. Don't feel bad, you aren't the only one. (Drunks and jokers excluded.)

Don't forget, that technically both GM and GMAC are gone. Down the tubes. In the restructuring, a new company was required to be formed. It happens to be GMC for it's initials. heh... So I'm saying GM died, it's gone. Only it's ghost is here to haunt us. They pissed me off when they killed Oldsmobile anyway...