ReconRat

ok, thanks. I could barely remember anything about 10 zone, never really used it. edit: dang it, now I remember using 10 zone when I was a teen.... you'all making my head hurt again...

lol, jpegs are based on the concept of 256 zone. We won't be able to seperate jpegs from black and white photography.

argh, dang it... I already gotz two cats in the yard... (que the Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young music)

Yeah, ok... it's coming back to me now. (selective memory). 10 zone tried to replace 256 zone, and probably did. 256 zone was near impossible to do. but getting close in 256 zone is a very good image. 10 zone is probably a lot quicker, and close enough. I mean it's just saying that I got at least one of ~25 shades of grey in each of the ten or eleven zones. edit: this post completely out-of-whack... see below...

Eleven? Sounds limited to me. Or something high contrast. That must be something newer that I've not run into. Four are used in engraving. Like for a wood cut. JPEGs got 256 greys. Not sure I can find reference to B&W photography, most stuff probably now for digital. http://www.j-a-b.net/web/hue/color-grayscale http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grayscale

Dang, I wish it did. I'd have done much better in those graduate level B&W courses at OSU. (All those are gone now, sad.) Unfortunately it's the two extremes of the grey scale that suffer, and have to be corrected, without the lose of the middle greys. When checking a photo, if I remember rightly, it was always the highlights and shadows that I checked first. If I thought I could bring out more detail, then it was probably originally over saturated or under saturated and required correction. (Or bad contrast, and both ends of scale or middle are gone.) Once corrected, the middle greys might shift or vanish. Bad contrast or exposure in an original are almost never recoverable. I would go the art route, and apply techniques to create something impressionable. Commercial art, in other words, not photography at that point. I would only do that if I thought I was losing an original exposure that I wanted really bad. edit: I suppose you mean an 18% middle grey. I used 18% grey cards all the time. It helped a lot. When without one, I set exposure on the green grass. That's close. But if your subject was in the sun or shadow, you'd have to fight for exposure control. The old method: black horse under the tree, over expose twice. White horse in the sun under expose twice. etc.

Zoning is from back-in-the-day of Black & White photography. It's largely ignored now, and there sure isn't a button in PhotoShop for it. Zoning lost it's importance in color photography, but it's still a technical correction that should occur first. Zoning is the existence of all 256 shades of grey in a photograph. If they aren't there, it's not a proper exposure and/or printing of image. Definitely back-in-the-day. JND is a Just Noticeable Difference It's difficult to do correctly. (Often done as subliminal to the viewer.) It's often dependent upon the viewing distance between object and observer. And this isn't about color, it's about photography and reality versus commercial art. edit: Color is not the only thing that impresses the visual stimulus.

Clifford is right, this over saturation is what sells. But it isn't a photograph anymore it's a cartoon. And that is what people want to see. It does impress me though, as long as it isn't too whacked out. It's just sad to see photography go away. That's what I said, this isn't photography anymore. It's commercial art.

Original Corrected No damage done to the sharpness. The depth cues are still intact. Some greyness left in, it's a distance shot. Even the human eyeball expects greyness at distance. Another depth cue. Notice the improvement in zoning. There's now greater detail in both highlights and shadows. Consider it a JND. Just enough to impress the visual stimulus without slapping the viewer.

LOL...wut? edit: oops, ET snuck in there... nicely done ET

Don't put all the confidence in a color awareness thing. It's best to make yourself the primary awareness. Just don't let it happen. On the other hand, the military is quite serious about having every bike rider wear them on base. No exceptions. This advice from a rider that wears primarily stealth on a blacked out bike...

yeahhhh, you never know when you'll have to shoot a basketball. The dang things are sneaky. Parents will be lucky if they aren't charged...

Yeah... most of us have moved up to Lee Press-On Rims in 256 colors... too bad they have to return to the factory to be removed...

The enginerd in me says even rusty steel shouldn't just fall apart so quickly. This is substandard steel. It's the wrong alloy. Basically crap in the first place.

Here is what is happening for this Aug 22/23 weekend... Ohio Festivals and Events for Aug 22/23 DOGGIE DASH 'N SPLASH FEST http://www.dashsplash.com/ Xenia, OH 22-Aug Shaker Woods Festival www.shakerwoods.com Rt. 7, Columbiana, OH 22-Aug to 23-Aug Lexington Blueberry Festival http://www.lexingtonblueberryfestival.com/ Lexington, OH 19-Aug to 23-Aug Bucyrus Bratwurst Festival http://www.bratfest.org/ Bucyrus, OH 20-Aug to 22-Aug Corn City Festival http://www.deshlerohiochamber.com/festival.html Deshler, OH 22-Aug to 23-Aug Summer Slam '09 http://www.myspace.com/columbusslam AD Farrow Co Harley Davidson, 7754 St Rt 37 E, Sunbury, OH 22-Aug 2pm to ? Columbus Bike Fest 09 OR link Big Walnut Park, Columbus, OH 22-Aug 12noon to 9pm Charity Bike & Car Wash OR link 81 Woodman Drive, Riverside, OH 22-Aug 12noon to 5pm Add more if you got them...

Sorry, missed that, was working... Sure, it's close by. And I like riding in the rain anyway.

A Christian or Good Samaritan will stop for just about anyone. Even an occasional ninja will stop for you. Once and a while even an axe murderer will stop for you. But if you are nice to them, they will entertain you with stories while you work.

Where duct tape won't work... mach 2 high heat extra sticky aluminum tape works wonders... not to mention the occasional tube of super glue...

oh where, oh where has this poor thread gone oh where, oh where can it be with its prose gone bad and its length gone long oh where, oh where will it be? you'all worry me sometimes...

70% here today. I rode. It missed. Nadda.

I did go back and edit that measurement thing... Yes, constant velocity chains go 2% over before worn. Motorcycles are probably closer to 1%. The GSXR1000 manual says "Count out 21 pins (20 pitches) on the chain and measure the distance between the two points. If the distance exceeds the service limit [319.4 mm/12.57"], the chain must be replaced." That would be 0.6% stretch. That should work for all 5/8" links, the 520, 525, and 530. Smaller chains would have a different measurement to check with. edit: YZF-R1 manual. It recommends the measuring of 10 pitches method but uses 5.91" as the service limit. This is a .96% stretch. @ IP, I saw that website, that looks like a good explanation of how it's done.

Does that engine use rubber engine mounts? IF they were shot, the engine might have moved when lifted. That might have changed the sprocket to sprocket distance. A swingarm isn't able to change much for position, in any way that would effect the chain. If it did, the swingarm would be in deep trouble. You'd probably notice that. Although it is true, that as the swingarm pivots up and down, there will be more slack in the chain. But nothing like the amount that you are seeing. Other than an engine moving, only the frame itself could have made a dimensional change. (Assuming the swingarm isn't mounted directly on the engine.) None of these ideas have much merit, it is more likely a simple answer somewhere. If the chain is on both sprockets, I'd look very closely at the chain adjustment parts around the rear axle. The only simple answer is that the rear axle is in the wrong position. I have trouble believing that the chain was worn out enough, to not have been noticed before the tire change.

I don't find any BF Goodrich in 205/60-16. I like Dunlop SP series, but they aren't in that size either...

tirerack.com Based on assumption of 205/60-16 all-season and 1st-long life, 2nd-noise, 3rd-handling: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?cameFrom=DG&RunFlat=All&speed_rating=T&speed_rating=U&speed_rating=H&speed_rating=V&speed_rating=W&speed_rating=Y&speed_rating=Z&speed_rating=%28Y%29&startIndex=0&pagelen=20&pagenum=1&pagemark=1&search=true&vehicleSearch=true&sortValue=18&dg=true&sortCode=45000&width=205%2F&ratio=60&diameter=16&minLoad=S&loadRank=2&manufacturer=Avon&manufacturer=BFGoodrich&manufacturer=Bridgestone&manufacturer=Continental&manufacturer=Dunlop&manufacturer=Firestone&manufacturer=Fuzion&manufacturer=General&manufacturer=Goodyear&manufacturer=Hankook&manufacturer=Kumho&manufacturer=Michelin&manufacturer=Pirelli&manufacturer=Sumitomo&manufacturer=Uniroyal&manufacturer=Yokohama&speed_rating=T&speed_rating=U&speed_rating=H&speed_rating=V&speed_rating=W&speed_rating=Y&speed_rating=Z&speed_rating=%28Y%29&performance=AS The new Bridgestone Insignia SE200 is the cheapest, but not very highly rated. The Yokohamas are probably worth considering. Dunno, none of these are cheap. I pick tires on this website, then try to find them locally, on sale preferred. You might consider forgetting about all-season, and just get regular tires. edit: if Jagr says some Yokohamas sux, I believe him...