ReconRat

dunno, might look at google map of motorcycle in toledo and see if something is familiar: map link

SMH10A, the one that plugs into a BELL helmet. Worked with my old phone, but the old Android phone wasn't up to taking many voice commands over bluetooth. Still had to push buttons. Did not get the model that has an mp3 input jack wired in, but have read that the input jack breaks and fails way too easy. New Android phone doesn't seem to have voice command problems. I installed the matching helmet speakers. Did not see the problems with volume that I had read about. Loud enough I'm using earbuds for mp3 player with them when I want to. I suspect might not hear well at higher freeway speeds, but nothing ever did. Have not tried bluetooth to my TomTom navigation yet. Navigation apps on the phone seem to be usable over bluetooth. Have not tried bike to bike pairing. edit: Battery charge probably not good enough for long rides and trips. Plan on having USB charging available on your bike.

I did find a BSA Victor 441 selling local, a parts bike, not completely assembled, but it's got a Pennsylvania title. Useless in Florida.

Yeah, but which one, lol. You know it's shifter and brake are reversed. Not easy to adjust to using those. Besides, they sell for 4000 to 10000 depending on condition, it's a scam... edit: ok, I found the real one in California selling for $4000. https://www.cardealfinder.com/other-vehicles/motorcycles/1955-triumph-ariel-hs-54082.html

Saw this local, $1800. It's an old flat track bike. Wondering if I should buy it. I've worked on Brit stuff before. Although I doubt I still have Whitworth tools. Don't know if it has a title, but it looks like it has a plate. And... in searching for an exhaust and muffler that would fit it, I ran into the same bike, nearly the same picture, with the same background, same price, in Maine, not Florida. Waste of time... edit: Worse... in the other picture, I can see an address and phone number on a door. It's Ventura, California, and a Santa Ana phone number. edit again... found the same bike for sale in Texas and Alabama. Probably an offshore scam. 1955 Triumph Ariel HS

https://www.amazon.com/Earls-91008ERL-Temp-Curved-Cooler/dp/B0049D7WS2 https://www.amazon.com/Earls-71006AERL-Temp-Curved-Cooler/dp/B0049D4F78 edit: oops, there's a bunch of different sizes: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=curved+oil+cooler ok, they are all from Earl's in Australia, can find them on Amazon, or at Jeg's or Summit Racing. here's the website: https://www.earls.com.au/product-category/cooling-systems/oil-and-transmission-coolers/

Was just thinking, the next time you fly in a Boeing 777, 787 Dreamliner or the Airbus A380, realize that the main fuselage is almost entirely adhesives, plastics and composites. Lots of carbon fiber. Wings still have metal and fasteners, which handle high loads and stresses better. Except Burt Rutan stuff, he's proving it can be done.

It's called a bonding product in industry. 3M pretty much has the market cornered in manufacturing and automotive. Metal to fiberglass is an issue on the Corvette forums, and other fiberglass cars, and has a variety of answers. Some say epoxy, but not sure that works well on both epoxy and polyester fiberglass. But I would use epoxy of the correct type to REPAIR fiberglass to fiberglass. Instead, people seem to use what OEMs use, 3M SMC/Fiberglass Repair Adhesive, Part# 08274 for metal to fiberglass panels. Probably strongest. People also use 3M 08115 or 08116, which is panel to panel adhesive. Probably not quite as strong. Or even 3M Super Fast Urathane Part# 08609, which is used for window glass to panels. Sounds weaker, not sure. The good news, is you can just ask 3M on line, or at a 3M supply store, and they will tell you the answer. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/bonding-and-assembly-us/ There's also a two sided adhesive tape you can use, common in trailer applications. Handles high dynamic loads. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/bonding-and-assembly-us/applications/panel-to-frame-stiffener-to-panel/ Most of the adhesives probably require clamping till set. So you'd have to rig up something to push/clamp in place. Like the rod thing that pushes and epoxies a mirror onto a windshield, and sets up overnight. Or maybe rig up a tie down strap somehow.

Quit, retired, resigned... call it what you want. What part of being 68yo and ex-military says Mattis can't do whatever he wants, when he wants? I'm the same 68yo and ex-military, and I'm sure Mattis has also quit, retired, resigned multiple times, all for good reasons or simply because he wanted to. We get tired of the crap, and want to do our own thing.

Well shoot... I'll probably get an adjustable gas block also. Weighs the same anyway. I won't be able to switch the gas block later. From what I read on it, people use anywhere from stock parts to a different buffer spring and weight, to go with the lightweight BCG. Many combinations work. The difference is in recoil. Barrel jump or drop. edit: And that's probably the same BCG I bought. It's not all that much lighter, so I wouldn't expect much problems using it.

Not ready for prime time, 3D printed electric motorcycle, but whatever... made from 15 printed parts. https://www.foxnews.com/auto/3d-printed-motorcycle-is-like-nothing-youve-ever-seen-yet

Have not used much Blazer of any type. I would think it's fine for target shooting. As with any ammo in a semi-auto, it needs to feed and function reasonably well. Older weapons do not like some of the newer design shapes and can fail. If anything, I've had more trouble with Remington, but only in certain semi-autos. I prefer brass casings, to be used for reloading. Hornady FTX Critical Defense (and other FTX designs) and Sig Sauer V-Crown are both highly rated defensive ammo. Both meet FBI criteria. There's some talk of FBI and government switching to one or the other brand. Basically, the newer design hollow points just work that much better than the older designs. Previous designs were known to fail in the presence of heavy winter clothing.

I'm finding all sorts of interesting stuff on the internet. https://www.guntweaks.com/ar-15-reliability.html https://www.guntweaks.com/ar-15-reliability-test-cases.html I'm still building an ultra lightweight. Don't know what to expect.

And there's nothing wrong with a regular bolt group and matching spring and buffer. Unless the barrel has some really odd gas port system. I'm guessing maybe the light weight bolt group was for faster cycle time, like for in competition. Or the entire rifle was trying to be some sort of unique ultra lightweight.

Changing to a heavier buffer spring and/or buffer would compensate for the light weight of the bolt group. Might borrow a heavy buffer, put it in there, and see if it functions, see below. Lots of variables with that. Here's a list of light weight bolt carrier groups with pics. If you can find which one you have, the manufacturer's website might indicate what spring and buffer should be used. Lots of different weight bolt groups are considered light weight. https://www.recoilweb.com/preview-guide-to-super-light-ar-15-bolt-carrier-groups-65941.html Otherwise... if firing the rifle results in failure to eject, failure to load, or failure to hold back on last round; you might have not enough movement, which could be anything from a loss of gas pressure to parts that are too heavy. Since it's a light weight bolt, which should be confirmed by examination, the opposites might occur, the bolt group and mass might slam back too hard. Might feel that, and might not. Might want to compare it to an ordinary rifle/carbine setup, and see how it feels. Really needs some one to look at the parts and see what you've got in there, as well as to fire it to check function and recoil.

Dunno... but this one looks like a winner if you've got a spare lower sitting around: $299.00 PSA 16" 5.56 NATO M4 Carbine Classic Rifle Kit, Olive Drab Green - 516446411 https://palmettostatearmory.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/370x370/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/1/516446411_2.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Sena-BT0003006-Motorcycle-Bluetooth-Intercom/dp/B00NBSI4MY Bought this bluetooth rig before the helmets changed up and parts dried up. Works great, took a while to set up and pair bluetooth and learn the controls. Was able to hear incoming phone calls and the Waze navigation app and stuff ok. Heard the sound isn't real good with the stock speakers, but sounds great to me and plenty loud enough (using both volume controls). I bet some people put the speakers in backwards. Tested with various sound check sample tracks. My old phone doesn't have enough space for storing music. I need a new phone I guess. Wasn't sure if using phone or an mp3 player would be better. Mostly an issue of battery life and recharging time. Best option might be the ability to do either as required. The old phone streaming Pandora uses up the battery quite quick, and heard the battery in the Sena comm unit might not last too long either. So plugging in an mp3 player would have been a nice option, but the 3.5 input jack isn't there. Apparently the correct helmet kit doesn't come with that mic and phones unit. If buying individual parts, there is a different unit that has the 3.5 input jack. BUT, then I read reviews that that 3.5 jack breaks way too easy anyway. So for an extra 35 bucks, maybe, maybe not worth it. Tried my passive (not active) noise suppression earbuds for the mp3 under the helmet with the new speakers in place, and seemed like no difference in fit and comfort. It should be ok to have both in place if I want to. The Bell Mag-9 is the quietest helmet I've ever had. I can use it without stuff plugged in my ears and it's quiet enough. But when earbuds or earplugs are in place, it lets in a little more noise at higher freeway speeds. You never know till you try... edit: comm unit wouldn't charge using an old worn usb cable. Bad connection. Had to use a fresh usb charging cable. edit again: out going phone calls with voice control didn't work. The phone can hear me, but it goofs up what I tell it. Phones fault, I guess. Again, I need a new phone.

New inventions are fascinating. Here's an aircraft engine that is fuel and electric and is modular so more cylinder pairs can be added. Basic 2 cylinder is 170 hp and 4 cylinder is 350. The electric module is 80 hp. Optional turbo charged.

Keep calm and carry on. After years of being told there is no difference, we're now told the difference is real. Pretty much an example of insanity in action. Basically, don't drink the cool-aid.

Dunno, it's all been a circus. Nationally embarrassing. To me, it appeared it all played a game of maneuver, leading up to a grand "send it to the FBI again!". And it did appear that a different result was expected from the FBI. That failed, unexpectedly so. The FBI did not cooperate. Lots of worthy quotes in the media and opinions. Go read them all. This one quote sort of sums it all up: "Yes, both parties are now more united and energized. But one did so by enticing the recalcitrant back into the fold; the other, by warning them to join the revolution or be guillotined."

I used to use isopropyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol (aggressive to some plastics) to clean up plastics for electronics. And I've used both on helmets. Internet has a list of stuff to try: To remove permanent marker from hard plastics, follow these simple steps. Color over the permanent marker you wish to remove with a dry-erase marker. Wipe over the area with a rag, and the permanent marker should come right off along with the dry-erase marker. Repeat if any permanent marker remains. This process works so well because the rubbing alcohol in the dry-erase marker eats through the permanent marker, while the tip of the marker acts as a little scrub brush, lifting and removing the marks. Other Household Products for Cleaning. Vinegar, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide. Even sunscreen is an option, it has alcohol in it. WD-40 is worth a try. edit: you know, it looks like the yellow ink on the bag came off and stuck to the helmet. Printer's clean ink with Stoddard solvent.

It's a multi bore rifle, it's a shotgun! Pretty out of the box radical, whatever it is. Army might have found its new rifle in Colorado Springs garage

It's difficult to find what will not go right through walls. The only thing I can think of is air marshals carry low penetration 44 special. Shotguns probably penetrate more than you think. I've seen the aftermath of a drunken accidental shotgun discharge in a basic apartment. Shot didn't stop till it hit a cinder block wall, and cratered that. It held a tight pattern through the drywall and a solid wooden headboard. Didn't even think about slowing down. 12 feet from the muzzle to the first wall - Winchester 2 3/4″, #1 Buck, 16 pellets - penetrated 6 sheets of drywall and bounced off the 7th + https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6clay9pFaw

I quit riding at age 35 to 45 or something. I still kept two motorcycles around just in case. I thought the urban roads had gotten too risky. I pretty much assumed I'd ride again someday. When older I realized motorcycles are fun and I was missing out on that. Being older may or may not lower the risks, but you certainly take less risks.

Never had much of a problem with old or surplus ammo. Works better than some store bought reloads I've tried. Less misfires or low power shots than with my early attempts at reloading, heh. I will say that back in the 90s, we avoided Pakistani surplus 30-06. Like never. A lot of it was over charged with powder or wrong type powder, and sold as surplus. One thing you should do, is not fire any cartridge brass that is badly corroded. If nothing else, they like to get stuck in the chamber of the barrel.