ReconRat

I just saw that yesterday, on a sign in front of Walgreens. A bunch of other places too, like Staples and some Krogers stores. https://www.fedex.com/en-us/shipping/onsite.html UPS does the same thing. It looks a little harder to figure out which ones do customer pickup: https://www.ups.com/dropoff/?loc=locale

The starter circuit is separate from the ignition circuit. Different jobs. Meaning that if the starter turns when both cold and hot, it's eliminated as an issue. The interrupt devices won't let the starter even turn, so that would eliminate side stand, clutch switch, tip switch, and maybe neutral switch. Not sure about the neutral switch without checking a schematic. I've seen lots of variation in how those are designed to work. In ignition circuits that don't work when hot, I'd look for corrosion in the connectors, and suspect the rectifier. Comments are correct in saying that some modern motorcycle rectifiers are often cheap and unreliable. You should be able to find a voltage drop when hot, compared to cold, if there's corrosion in the ignition circuits. Both primary and secondary. Both need to be inspect, repair/replace. Check the frame/engine ground as well for resistance. Common failure point. Rectifiers are kinda hard to test. Or even find instructions how to. I'd check through the ignition primary and secondary and then buy a new rectifier... I once did this and bought the rectifier, and then realized my main fuse was really hot. Found the problem was only a light film of corrosion on the copper connectors in the fuse holder. It would heat up, sometimes wouldn't start and keep blowing the main fuse when it felt like it. Everybody forgets to check the fuse and fuse box. I even bought a fuse box, but sandpaper fixed the old one. edit: kill switch is also a common failure point. But if I remember right, some are ignition circuit, and some are starter circuit. Schematic would tell which it is.

I avoid FedEx. They've been ok, but cost more and aren't quite as reliable. I think your street name changing is the answer. All of it is packed together in one route in one zip code which isn't your actual zip code. I've even heard of small short streets be missing from shipping databases. Try proving that one... btw, I've used the hold and pickup at the shipping center a lot. I just didn't want it sitting outside the house by itself. Also works for items you need to sign for. Long drive after work to get it, but was worth it on those occasions.

Yes, massive hit. But the crash after that was pretty severe also. Just don't know. I want to add, that lightning strikes can occur well in front of an approaching storm. In the clear dry air, when a motorcycle might be trying to outrun the storm. It's something to do with the mix of cold and hot air in front of a moving front that carries a thunderstorm.

Well, what's next? Add one more rear wheel and actually have some stability (or less)? Why not?

That was a few miles North of me on I-95. Wasn't the first time and won't be the last. There was another rider hit last year. Happens here more often. If nothing else, the general area is the lightning capital of the world. I use apps on the phone to warn me. You can also buy a stand alone lightning alarm, for hunters, fishermen, hikers, etc. edit: Not sure the lightning was fatal, it apparently knocked him out and he crashed at freeway speeds. Hard to say.

oops, correct... that's what I was using it for.

I tried the S100 stuff. It seemed to degrease and/or brighten things pretty well. I leave it for last to get the hard to remove crap and funky looking spots. I use the Honda quick spray and one of the wax that dries clear. Clear drying lets you protect some places that are hard to buff out. Any car wash works for me, even Dawn or Ivory dish soap. Don't care. (Ivory used to be an industrial grease cutter, or so they say...) edit: as Tonik pointed out, dish soap will generally remove your old wax.

Now wondering what was I thinking... I've straightened a few from the 60s, by just putting them on a block of wood and hitting them with a big hammer. None of them ever broke. But I wouldn't overdo it, there are limits. I think it would make a big difference whether it was cast or drawn/forged/machined. Cast will break without much help. That bike master lever was probably cast. Yes, castings will break just yanking on them with your hand. It only requires a weak spot, like one little flaw in the casting grain of the metal.

In general, individual pipes and cans perform better at higher rpms and produce better horsepower. Headers or collectors, combining into less cans tend to perform better at lower rpms and improve torque. Pipe diameter should increase in size from the collector back. My basic rule, if high compression or high redline engine, go for the horsepower with the singles. If low compression, low rpm, torque engine, high displacement, etc type thing, go for the torque with a single or dual can setup. The cam design plays in too. The cam might be either high rpm or low rpm usage. Mix parts wrong and it won't work too well. The other truth. When seeking performance of any kind, improve the electrical primary and secondary first. Then work on the rest. Performance changes can degrade the electrical quickly. Not to mention that if you do electrical last, you pretty much have to go back and start over on all the rest.

Nope, but I've run design calculations on exhaust systems to see what is right and wrong. Typically Honda does it exactly right, per the book. Length, diameter, etc. And I will say my one 919 had gutted baffles, and didn't run for crap at lower rpms. I replaced with used stock cans from ebay and it runs great. The right amount of back pressure is tricky. It depends on restrictions, flow volumes and velocities, size of valves, cam duration and lift, compression, rpms, etc. And the right amount will vary for various desired results.

yup, me too with my first bike. Maxed out speeding tickets. Too young and too much fun. A smaller bike can be thrashed into trouble easily. Leaving for two years in the Army cooled things off, and gave me some discipline to change my ways a little bit.

Also, any new bike deserves respect. It's a learning experience, regardless of the rider's background. Be at ease with the motorcycle for that first season. Treat it with respect.

back in the day... when I worked in the early years at a Honda shop, those early bikes were tight from the factory. Several engines were ruined on demo rides, when they were thrashed before they were ready for that. I do not think this happens anymore from the factory. I haven't heard of such happening. But if you rebuild your own engine, and it needs a gentle break-in, by all means be gentle. I have always been gentle on the break-in for an engine that I re-built myself.

Arcing, corrosion, heat, vibration and maybe some resistance in the ground lug bolt too. Remove and repair or replace all damaged components. (Replace starter cable, ground lug bolt/screw, lock washer, and maybe ground cable. Both are cheap. Try to repair the stand switch.) Look for more damage to fix, and improve the conditions there so it won't happen again. (re-engineer it) 51410562A - BATTERY - SOLENOID STARTER CABLE - $12.22 53910236B - SWITCH, STAND -Regular price $72.43 77240391C -PACK- SCREW TBEIF M6X10 -Regular price $5.10 edit: I think that's the right part numbers, but whatever, the cables are cheap. Any steel bolt from the hardware that fits is fine, but don't use stainless steel on aluminum. It corrodes quickly.

Actually, almost all factory engines are initially broken in on test stands, before crating and shipping, or assembly. This is to avoid potential "thrashed to death" within the warranty period. Break in strategies vary per the specifications of the engine assembly. Tight tolerances requires gentle and varied. Loose is whatever... The important part is the early oil changes. Tons of metallic crap is produced in the first few miles. Dump it. And the filter.

That's this week's news here in Florida. A temporary big deal, till the next political football. And yeah, if restitution is part of the penalties of the crime, pay it all back first. On the other hand, news down here has been quoting ex-felons, that will never vote for the Democratic party. I'm not sure I understand all the reasoning behind those decisions. But it isn't all one sided like some politicians want to think. Statistical probability would pretty much split it down the middle. note: 59 million? NOT paying it back would be either part of the crime or an additional crime. No way out on that one. Who the heck forgives 59 million? Oh wait... let me guess...

I like silver as coins. Good for shtf. But bought most all of mine when prices were below $4 an ounce. A word on value of silver increasing. It's tied to gold mining, where they always find silver when digging for the gold. So the supply tends to be greater than the demand, forever.

Oxford, Nelson-Rigg, Dowco and CoverMax are the low cost options. The cheapest of each will fade and rip in one year or a bit more. I started buying a notch up on quality and it seemed like 3 years was about the average. Haven't tried them all, but a middle grade CoverMax is what I settled on. Middle grade Nelson-Rigg is probably about the same thing. I strapped mine on with a bungie cord under the bike and thru the grommets. A strong wind can and will remove the cover and move it into the next county. But that wind can also move the bike if it's covered. Once saw a wind pick the back end of bike and cover up and move it 6 inches over. Had another bike fall over in wind. So I also liked to lock the bike down with cable and lock, so it won't blow over. Mine are safe inside a garage now, I don't mess with it anymore. And yes, I've put bikes in the front or back door to park them inside. Worked for me.

Just saw this today. Haven't tried it yet. Waze was updated and modified for motorcycle use. https://www.theverge.com/2017/11/29/16714436/waze-new-features-motorcycle-mode-hands-free-voice edit: voice commands included in the update. edit deux: lol, Ima dork... this update came out in 2017... oops

ummm, you know you can buy a pair of cheap voice activated walkie talkies to use. Clip on belt and ride. Strong batteries and good range too. They were something I considered but never bought. edit: let me make that a bit clearer. You want walkie talkies that use a head set plugged in, and are voice activated. Cobra units do that, I think many do. Would have to find a headset setup that works well with the helmets.

Might do an OR search for "sena". There's a bunch of threads on com units. https://ohioriders.net/index.php?/search/&q=sena I have the SMH-10 kit for a BELL helmet. Plugs into the side.

And then there's this, weak... but input nevertheless: https://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/velmec.com with this response in the comments: "I verified that both their addresses are fraudulent, the management companies in Los Angeles and Boston have confirmed. The two people Thomas Cochran and Sharon Stark are fake. The two phone numbers, the land line and mobile line do not match the individuals or company name. Verified domain registrar is in the Ukraine. Cannot get a response via phone or email.<br /> <br /> 100% Scam " Attempting to do similar checks should lead to similar results if it's a scam. my opinion... Canadian website, under construction, for somebody in Kiev Ukraine, claiming to represent North American interests for a small Italian company. Yeah, no thanks, alarms going off all over the place.

Us aerospace weenies prefer this one: BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=acf-50&amp;qid=1551634863&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5 There's a few places on an aircraft that it's mandatory to use this. Probably close to exactly the same formula, that the ACF-50 uses.