smashweights

i really do wanna track day badly. but that's gonna take a while to get the investment in boots and leathers (pants anyway), and gauntlets (i've only got 3/4 gloves). but why are all the mid-ohio days on mon/tues? i do have a job too...

lol. i've been horny before, but never THAT horny... in reference to the girl, not the car sex

i was calling the TT lifting stand a forklift, so we're all squared away.

i thought that was what the "forklift" stands were. seems kinda worthless to get a stand that lifts from the fork legs. but yeah, i knew that's what i would need, thanks though

hmm, i have a service manual and i'll take a look at it. i was hoping it would be simple pull and replace job, but doesnt seem that way... bummer alright i'll take a look at it but it seems like no matter what i'm gonna need a front forklift stand?

the preload is what sets the sag and that in and of itself is gonna have an effect on compression and rebound.

just did this yesterday afternoon. to set the sag (basically ripped from 101 Sportbike Performance Projects): Measure from the trtiple clamp to the end of the black portion of the fork tube while having two friends hold the bars so the front tire is off the ground (i guess you could use a forklift stand here). This is L1, or where your suspension tops out. Sit on the bike in riding position with gear, have your friends press down on the bars until the suspension bottoms out then let the bike come back up until the suspension rests on it's own. Measure distance again. this is L2. Sitting on the bike, have them lift the front tire off the ground again then let the suspension come to rest again. this is L3. Use L1 - (L2+L3)/2 = static sag. You want this value between 1.2 - 1.5mm for street. Repeat for the rear but measure from the rear axle to a piece of tape on the tail DIRECTLY above the axle. Increase the preload to drop the value, decrease preload to raise the value. To see is if the spring rate is off (after properly setting static sag), lift the bike off the ground in the front and measure the change from rest of the front fork decompression (should be ~ 5mm). I believe this is called "free sag." Finally, set your compression/rebound to stock settings (should be available on sportrider.com) then set the rebound so after fully compressing the springs by pressing down on the center of the TT for front (and center of seat for rear) and seeing if the bike returns to it's original position. If so adjust the rebound dampening until the rebound takes approximately 1 full second to return to the original position (this is all without you on the bike). there's your starting settings. the rebound and compression will have to be fine-tuned gradually as you determine how small changes in compression/rebound from this starting point affect handling for you on the bike. Have fun!

it is and i would too but sadly no dice, SOL for that day...

1- where's a track near columbus and how do i get into that? always wanted to but haven't known where and what i need to do for the bike to do it. 2- i'm already taking corners withing like 5-10 mph of the posted speed... not happy with that.

that's just it: can i just unscrew and replace the fork end cap or is that a bad idea? i'm just thinking about the spring etc. and if this is a dangerous/stupid idea and i need to do something else in order to remove it? the reason i ask is the previous owner ground off the rebound adjuster on the right fork cap and i've got the replacement cap and need to install it. thanks!

so how do/did you all gain confidence at setting your entrance speed/line into turns? It seems like every time i enter a turn, i panic, hit the brakes, scrub off about 5-10 mph and end up being pretty far below an "enjoyable" speed for most turns and feeling like i would have been fine doing...

I want to replace the stator cover on my 04 R6 that the previous owner rashed up. anyone got one in scratch-free shape?

+1

i've been trying to play that song off and on for like 6 years and i'm not even close, lol. fucking sweet.

colored wheels are more unique than just black, but they always seem to remind me of the bikes of the 80's/90's... like the old Kawi's etc.

ditch her. the more guys stop taking bullshit, the less they'll be able to ditch it. eventually you'll find one that isn't a bitch about stupid shit.

i would probably be up for it. just poked my head in last time to see what it was all about, didnt get dyno'd

makes me think of that thread where the guy in florida shot the douche who tried to steal his truck. if only...

www.sportbiketrackgear.com free shipping on PPs

+1 +2 i dont remember the stat, but most major gun violence goes on in "gun free" zones.

how'd you get out of full coverage with a CU loan? I got my loan from my CU and had to have full coverage on it until the loan value fell below $2000. did you just get a general money loan or a vehicle-specific loan?

The reason they're stealing doesnt justify it at all. I mean, you can kill for money to feed your family too if someone's willing to pay for it. And I think you should always shoot to kill. You maim them and you've probably got an exponentially higher risk of having some type of lawsuit or legal action coming back on you from the person you shoot.

i've always had my passengers hold the strap on the back seat and put one arm around my torso. always worked out well.

+1, if you dont wanna risk getting shot, dont steal ppl's shit