jporter12

It is awesome! They're very bike friendly as well. Their dining area is tiny, so warmer weather to sit out on the pickanic tables is crucial.

Plan it. You did a great job 1 years ago! I can't say for sure that I would make it, since things are going to be really busy for me around June, but I would try to make it!

Go ahead, use meeting in Marysville as an excuse to not hang with a DTC bro. I get it.

Of course it is. I still haven't turned Directv back on.

Johnstown, which isn't far from where the seller lives. I have a binch of work to get done tomorrow anyway.

You're going to be close by and didn't even tell me? I see how it is. See if I make fun of you for riding a Busa anymore, after that.

Eighteen?

Oh, you forgot rinse in there before repeat.

I almost repped you for this, but you have enough already, and I don't want to risk being the one to get you a gold star. Plan it, and people will show! Or at least get a few people together to plan parts of it. Someone take breakfast and ride, someone the shooting and camping.

I've handled both back to back at the gun store, and liked both. There are some reports of the recoil from the XD .40 being more than for other rounds, and in comparison to the M&P, which has a slightly lower barrel center line. I still may consider a 9 because it's "stopping power" is more than enough with the proper ammo, and the ammo is cheaper. There are safety features unique to each model that I like, and that makes the decision even tougher.

I know, I know. I shot Chebby's M&P 45 a while back, and now I'm looking to try out the XD, if anything. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the XD. It's XD (or XDM) or M&P, compact, probably in .40 that I've decided on.

I guess I was just jumping on the "talk about leaking oil pan" band wagon! For anyone that's interested in buying the truck, it is something that may need addressed in the future. The small amount down from the main seal area is normal, since most oil leaks that can occur end up back there. As I said, I've had enough transmissions out that it's easier for me to go that route. Pulling the engine just seems like so much more work! I set the mounts down on a couple 2x4's, pull the flexplate, drop the oil pickup tube, then the pan will come right out.

I have removed EGR valves many times and replaced them with the same gasket. It is only a couple $ at most though, and sure enough, if I was to tell you it will be ok without a new gasket, it will be fubar, and you'd hate me for it. The hate I can live with, though, I just want you to get your truck running right again. GM fuel pumps are known to fail. That's something that would have to be tested though.

When you pick it up, come over by here so I can shoot it. I'm looking to get something, and haven't made up my mind between M&P or XD, 9 or .40, or .45.

Fixed. Ninja 250>Busa, in all aspects.

Have you priced an EGR valve for that thing? They're usually around $100. Not exactly cheap to a poor college kid!

One thing MANY people (even professional technicians) get caught up in is that if theres a code and it's running bad, whatever the code is for is what is causing the problem. I have seen many times that another problem, tuneup, engine mechanical, other electrical, etc... will cause a problem that the computer will pick up as something else. As an example, it looks like the EGR position and Cam sensors get their reference voltages from the same circuit inside the PCM. A problem with one could cause the other to set a code. Trouble codes DO NOT mean run out and replace that part!

Honestly, I don't think a cam sensor will cause the problems you are having. If it is, it's because it is coming in and out, working part of the time. Unplug it, and run the truck to see if anything changes. If it's a constant failure (such as being unplugged) it should act the same all the time.

It's not always enough of a coolant problem to be noticed! I wen through this on a 97 S-10 with a 2.2 a couple months ago. No noticeable coolant loss, no oil contamination. The only way we found it was steam out the tail pipe, but only under certain conditions. Reread: I can almost guarantee that the cam sensor will NOT CAUSE a misfire. It can cause a misfire to not be detected by the PCM, and can cause the PCM to go to "ASDF mode" for the injectors. I had some info at one time on what that mode did, but basically the PCM would "figure out" when it was firing the injectors right, and could keep it in sync from then on, or something like that.

That sounds more like an ignition secondary problem, only happening under a decent amount of load? The other codes must not be all current codes. There are several types of codes, current, pending, fail since clear. It does matter when trying to fix it.

If it's going to be above freezing, and our road and driveway aren't so bad, I COULD possibly make it out on the bike for a few miles! I'll read the story when I get settled in a little while.

Yeah, these things are notorious for head gasket failures. I'd say about 80% of the time, the head is cracked. GM never should have put the 2.2 in the S-10. Before you break your arm trying to pat yourself on the back, what did you call right? Unmetered air? Sort of, but not so much, because it's a speed density system, and it doesn't actually meter the air coming into the engine.