jporter12

The transfer case switch (in the dash) is all 12 volts. You should get 12 volts out of the white wire when you press 2wd, 4-hi should get 12 volts on the gray with black stripe wire, and 4 lo should be the dark green with white stripe. If that checks out, the switch is good.

You need a front axle actuator if the transfer case is engaging, and the wheels aren't, as you are saying it is. If that actuator is what you have replaced, try checking the connector at that actuator for 12 volts when the driveshaft is locking up. The actuator gets 12 volts from a switch on the transfer case. There should be a connector with brown, light blue, and grey with black stripe wires. The brown should have 12 volts anytime the ignition switch is on. When the transfer case is in 4wd, the light blue wire should get 12 volts. There is also a switch on the front axle to report back to the module that it is engaged. It will send 12 volts back to the T/C module when engaged. If the module doesn't see this signal, it will flash the light waiting for it. The light will also flash if it doesn't see the transfer case motor go into the range that it commanded. The transfer case control module does NOT directly turn on the front axle actuator, that is done through the switch I mentioned. The big connector on the transfer case motor... Get your test light away from it! There are 5 volt circuits in there, and you could fry your transfer case control module. If the transfer case is engaging, making the front driveshaft lock with the truck in park, the switch is working, at least enough to get it into one of the 4wd modes.

No envy here! My XD is just fine for me! I'm not a Glock hater, they're just not on the top of my list of favorites.

I'm itching for my 40D to come back from Canon service. $238.61 flat rate service, shipping, tax, etc... Ugh. Still less than a new one of similar capabilities and feel. I don't much like the feel of the smaller DSLRs.

You've been hanging around with the midget too much.

With the exception of one they have working there, I think he rides an Ape?

Do you hear the encoder motor trying to turn? Beyond that, you'd need the wiring diagram to know what the switches inside it are supposed to be doing. You can pull it off and plug it back in and see what it does without it attached to the transfer case. Also, be sure you have checked all of the fuses first.

Canon, whatever fits your price range. /discussion

And you're not going to find a vacuum line for the 4X4 on that truck. Encoder motor on the left side of the transfer case, axle actuator on the front differential, switch assy, t-case module, and associated wiring is all. Encoder motor and axle actuator are the most common failures, and the switch is semi-common. Does it have the auto 4X4 option? If so, I think I have a switch in my tool box you could try out... If you were still local, that is.

The dog did it! Read that post on the guys wall, from the link that Pauly shared.

You're gonna have tennis elbow after that.

The hernia? No, but I still get some pain from time to time from the repair of it. Oh, wait... You meant the pain pills! They're LONG gone! I used them when I'd get headaches. They were just Darvocet anyway.

I had one fixed over 10 years ago. The recovery was pretty easy for me, other than nothing to do. I think I only took one of the pain pills they gave me.

Black white and green (I don't even like green, really) one is easy to read, but I like the simplicity of the one on your sig. I totally hate when I see someone's logo, or their business name in a font that is tough to read really quick, such as on the back of a vehicle going down the road. If it's too tough to read, it's not gonna do you much good.

I think I've seen it in passing.

That wasn't specifically pointed to you! I can't say that I've been exactly innocent of stuff like this in the past, but in my defense I wouldn't have messed around in the average Joe's car. A shop that I worked for did a lot of work for a high-end used car lot, that sells performance, and luxury cars, primarily. We had their permission to test them out. We (I) got busted once roasting the tires on a F150 Lightning that someone said wouldn't do it. I proved them wrong! I have grown up a LOT since those days.

I just happen to know a pretty good ASE certified Master Tech (+L1 Advanced Engine Performance, +X1 Undercar Specialist) and could possibly get you a deal.

Seriously, I have had a couple times when the customer goes with me, or tells me that I wasn't driving it hard enough. I probably run customer vehicles a little harder than they would, but in no way do I abuse them. That's just dishonest. I have refused to do a few jobs that were either dishonest deals, or would leave the vehicle in an unsafe condition (even if it was better than when it came in) when it was done.

This. Saves you from a blown engine. Have to know: is it factory cruise, or aftermarket. If it's aftermarket, throw it in the trash. The factory is all electronic, no vacuum to deal with. The brake switch would be my first though, as I have seen them come apart, and short across, and the cruise unit would think the brakes are off all the time. It's a normally closed switch to the cruise unit, I believe (safest way to do it) and the contacts for the cruise are separate from the brake lights, but in the same (multi pole) switch.The factory unit should be on the firewall, square shaped. If there's a question about whether it is factory, post a pic of it, follow the cable back from the throttle body to find it.

Interesting...

Bring it to the shop and we'll heat them and get them loose. You can put them back in with anti-seize to go home and do the job.

Bacon Roadhouse

Baiting the troll... FTW!

This deserves negative rep.

While I don't wish death upon anyone' date=' I wish they would politically die. No horse socks, sorry Pauly. I'm not sure what sort of fetish you were thinking of with that one...