Jsvob03

So, this past spring i had a new heat pump/furnace put in. It's been nothing short of amazing. bills are WAY lower thus far compared to last year at this time. hell, keeping the house @ 72* all sumer cost at most 35 / month! (1700sq ft house). anyhow, now that its cold, it makes this rather odd noise. It sounds like a damn dinosaur is roaring in my side yard! My only guess is that when the system goes into defrost mode, it has to switch directions of flow, which means pressures need to equalize before it can happen. is the noise an internal pressure release (obviously can't vent to the atmosphere)? the noise will happen, and then 30 minutes later happens again. but then its gone for a while. this is why i believe it to be defrost as well, because the defrost cycle will run for 30/60/90 min, depending on setup.

shit!!! my b-day is OCT 8th. I was gonna wait til next wednesday (oct 7th) when i got my bonus from work. guess i'll go today. gotta renew 1 car, 1 bike, and my license.

Some performance tires WILL indeed develop a 'flat spot' if let sit for a decent length of time (can happen over 1-2 days, depending on the tire). Its not the flat spot like old bias tires would get, but still it does happen to an extent. any tire made with the compound named ARAMID (basically kevlar strands) will develop a slight flat spot. once the tires are warmed up, its goes away. I am unsure if any MC tires have Aramid in them. i know its becoming more commonplace in auto tires, as the aramid is light, yet sturdy and predictable. I for one can vouch for this as well. I had BFG G-Force's on my old car. it was the worst feeling ever, for 5 minutes (give or take) each morning i drove the car (multiple vehicles, didnt always drive that one).

..ow. fucking ow. the crazy thing is, i used to do something similar. I would take a rag and run it on TOP of the chain. still dumb, but at least i didnt put anything near the meat grinder side (ie, the bottom). I still look back though, and consider myself lucky.

oh yeah, hash marks are no good. im gonna have to look this tool up.

my buddy used them once in his car. It was in his 96 (might be wrong) mustang. runs 13 point something. anyhow, it smelled EXACTLY like grape juice in the tail pipe. strange. I like the smell of race gas better.

I sed to work at sheetz, and on new years eve, into new years day we had about 100 people PACKED into our store shouting OH-IO. fucking christ. Not a college football follower, but i'll cheer on the home team.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbittLn84cY&feature=related

turns out it was just a mis-alignment. Fixed it, and it was all better.

So, i decided to check the alignment of the front wheel to the back, as i've been getting a head shake at lower speeds. For those that are unaware, there is a DIY on ex-500.com. basically you run a string from the rear of the bike, to the front. this acts as a reference; lets you know the path the front tire is taking in respect to the rear tire. First pic is the right side, second is the left. The alignment itself is pretty close. whats concerning, is the offset of the front, when compared to the rear (as judged by the distance between the string, and the wheel, when comparing the left to the right.).

happy 21st. ride up to my place, i'll give you a shot of some grain alcohol. (everclear 190 proof.) it doesn't put hair on your chest, it burns it off).

i'll look into the spring measurement, after i replace some pulleys. I was lookin' it over, and found 2 of the four pulleys are WASTED! like, there's only 5 rollers in the whole thing. looks like it should have around 12, so its just grinding as it rolls. added resistance explains alot. thanks for the link. good info nonetheless.

that might be taking atgatt too far.

i believe you're thinking of a different setup. the springs at my work run perpendicular to the rails, right above the door. big round ones that twist during operation. Mine, run parallel to the tracks, and expand when the door is down, and compress when its open.

there ya go. I've seen something similar before. it was on an acura integra. rotor was paper thin! amazing.

it looks the same..spacing between coils is identical (per my eye). any suggestions as to a better test?

sad. RIP

The springs look fairly new (2 per door, about 1.5" diameter in length.) I just bought the house a little over a year ago, so im not quite sure as to what has been replaced, and when. the springs just appear more shiny than the rest of the stuff. its a manual door, no motor. as far as danger..last winter i was opening the door from the inside, and the left side roller (the one I JB'd) fell off the track. then, the right side one popped out. guess where the panel hit? my head thanks tho.

It feels kinda like the first time i got rick-rolled.

i'll likely go and see it saturday night w/ the girlfriend. looks like a decent movie to me.

I have a two-car garage (well, two actually..score), and one of the doors has forever been a problem. forever = 1 year, just fyi. anyhow, when lifting the door, it would sometimes get stuck or be really difficult to lift (as compared to the door next to it). So today i lubed all the moving parts. goes up WAY easier. but i still had the getting stuck problem. here is what was happening. the door itself would 'lean' to the right, causing it to hit the track. I have no idea why it would do this, but if i were to re-center it, it would roll up with no problems. here is how i fixed it. I jbwelded the steel rod that has the roller on it to the hinge. it doesnt obstruct anything, and works WAY better and never gets stuck. is something going to fail, or am i good?

the backfiring could be an exhaust leak. basically it pulls in air from the leak, and causes the unburnt fuel from combustion to burn in the pipes. and thats IF its leaking close to the head. it sounds like the idle circuit is either plugged, or improperly adjusted. Have you tried adjusting the idle screws? a good start is to lightly seat them, and then back them out to two turns or so (it just so happens 2.5 turns runs good on my ex500). then set your idle. You can feel out your proper a/f idle mix by adjusting one screw1/8 turn, then the other. if the idle goes up, its getting better. just make sure whatever you do to one screw, you duplicate to the other. I have no idea how many (if more than one) carbs your bike has. im assuming two..but i dont know.

you must have been low on air for some distance. ..and yeah, a run-flat could have avoided the rim damage, but they cost alot more.

i go thru progressive, and am charged ~140/year. BUT, Its a ninja 500, w/ liability only. for my cars, I have motorists mutual insurance co., and its ike 150/mo for two cars (malibu's) w/ full coverage. but i get a discount for having my homeowners thru them as well.