bandit12

I have a P-11 and with some practice I think she'll like it a lot. It can sting a bit, I was suprised, after 40-50 rounds it has a little bite.

:rip:

I took entry forms for some motocross riders over to Cernic's in Johnstown, Pa. about five years ago and they had a spotless and possibly new leftover/owners RE5 on the showroom floor. If you wanted to make a road trip sometime you might go check it out, of course you might want to call and ask if its still there.

That is another thing slowing me down, my hands bleed after doing carbs or anything using solvent or fuel for that matter. The last two carb jobs pretty much done me in, one set was off a CB 550 and they had to be removed 3-4 times, the guy seen it run but when he came back that evening to get it, it wouldn't run. Problem moved to a different carb each time, gave up on it. The last one was a 900 Eliminator, that bastage had to be done 2-3 times and it finally ran like a top, I rode it a couple different times that day with no problems and the next day I went to the garage and it was sitting in a big puddle of gas. Float related and didn't want to do them again. As far as racked carbs I'm not on a very good success rate.

With a meat hammer! Just do it.

Prayers sent. Hang tough and may God give you peace with this situation.

Has anyone here removed the carbs from a 1998 CBR 600 to clean them? Is it a major job or is it fairly straight forward? I have read such stuff as don't turn the carbs upside down or you will ruin the vacuum chambers and if you remove the slides the diaphrams will swell and you have a lot of trouble putting them back in. A friend needs the carbs cleaned because it runs really rough when it runs or you have to hold the throttle open to keep it running, won't run off choke or idle.

That was a close one for sure, bet he pulled something, lol, here is another one. I can't find the version that shows him remount and ride off without falling down. Mamola was crazy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6uEdhcTWzg

Prayers sent and God be with her and her family. <><

I had a Yamaha take a chicken to the headlight once.

Thats no problem, unpacking sucks but I think I'd rather be in Vegas than a meeting. I checked out the membership list after the meeting and actually know a few people on there but didn't see anyone that I knew at the meeting. I'm getting an itchy trigger finger and I think i'm going to cast some bullets and load some 45's this week.

I hear you, I don't make the Berea gun show more than once every 5-6 years because its like 100+ miles from my house. Hopefully I will be a member of the Coshocton Gun Club next month.

That 20 looks like the Bantam model, a youth stock and if you look the bolts closed and the forearm is set back about 4 inches so the kid don't have to reach out as for to work the slide. I had one for both my boys to learn on and a friend bought it for his girls to learn on. Great little firearm, never had a moments problem with it and you should have no problem selling it if you get them. GLWS

I went to a H-D dealer to get fork seals and wear bushings for a friends Softail and the parts guy didn't want to sell me the parts. He wanted me to have my friend schedule an appointment for them to fix it, he said that selling me the parts was a liability issue for them and they didn't want sued if I messed up the job. I've known their lead mechanic for 25 years and when I told him what the guy said he called the guy out and told him to sell me the damn parts and then stick to selling belt buckles.

Hey Crazy, look at his third pic, the deflector and scope sit directly over where the guide would be if the bolt was opened. The strippers may work if he removes the deflector. Oh, and his deflector isn't part of the scope mount like some but clips on from the front so it can be removed seperately. But, like you say it might clear just have to try it.

The stripper clips would work with the Tapco stock but the brass deflector would cover the stripper clip guide. If it was removed the scope might possibly still prevent the clips from going in the guide. Lock the bolt open if it will lock open on that type of mag and see where the clip guide is located, probably under the scope/deflector set up.

Prayers sent. <><

I have got to get my CC permit but I keep saying one of these days, here is an eye opener.

I'm between ranges right now, I'm a little on the fence about the range I've been a member of for years and haven't renewed yet. I've been kicking around the idea of trying to join the one at Coshocton.

Make sure she knows we are greatful to her, Thanks Kiddo.

.22's are the great cost cutting, time killing fun guns, I have at least 6 handguns. I'd like to try out one of those EAA revolvers myself some time. Also should've came up with the funds to buy the Taurus that a member here had, hindsights 20/20.

I'd be leary of shooting .32 acp out of that gun because of the difference in cartridge dimensions between the two. A friend of mine bought an H&R revolver in .32 S&W long and he paid like 35 bucks for a box 50 rounds. Do you reload, that would let you shoot it a lot cheaper. Never the less, in my opinion you got a good deal on that revolver, happy shooting.

Just what does the caliber stamp on the barrel call for ?

I have a Kel-Tec P-11 ten shot and have even shot cast bullets without any problems. I did have some feed problems with some gunshow reloads that have been laying around for several years but they give all my nines fits.

Here is the one I was telling you about, its been parked outside with a tarp over it for over a year, I didn't know that. Its rough, paint is shot and the brake hoses and battery need replaced. Sorry, I didn't know it wasn't keep it in the garage instead of out in the weather with nothing more than a tarp. You can even see where the cement block sits over the seat to hold down the tarp. They want $700 but to me thats iffy, it needs some work.