RHill

I should have my laptop as long as this re-install of windows goes smoothly... Hopefully the re-install fixes it's problem with recognizing SD cards as well. Also, if anyone wants to borrow a camera or two sunday during racing that would be fine with me. Just have to tether/safety wire them per MotoSeries.

Thanks for the advice Jerry; I've used that technique before, but didn't have any torx bits large enough. I did also try hammering a flat blade screw driver in, but it ended up stripping out as well. Really thought the ground down allen would take it out, because as it was hammered in it cut out the chip from the original one stripping. I didn't even think to use my electric impact, that might have loosened it up initially. Jeff, if you want to mess with it I'll bring it. Might take it to work and see if the next size drill bit does anything. In any case, I'll need a replacement pad pin, which OEM is $20 each and probolt is $10 before shipping or 35 for a safety wire set....thats why I just ordered the ebay caliper set.

Well, larger sized allen ground down didn't work. It was gripping good and I heated the casting....but the damn thing is in there good. Drilled out the bolt, to my surprise it was a pretty nice job, the tops of the aluminum threads were visible a little over 1/2 around with not much meat left on the other side.. I was able to pick off the very top thread, but nothing more. Bent back the spring retainers for the pads and used a pair of vice grips on the pin....just ended up cutting down the diameter of the pin. I was thinking of taking it to work and putting a helicoil in, but I think we only have standard sets. Looked on ebay and found a set of calipers for $35 and scooped them up. Oh well, wasted too much time already.

oh no, it was scraped off completely, including using an exacto blade to get into the very top thread. I don't believe it is silicone because it is rock solid, exactly like construction adhesive becomes....I've actually used the stuff on my trailer as an alternative to lock nuts when bolting the decking on. Also, whatever it was they used is also in the threads and made its way behind some of the bolts. I'm going to grind down the next size up standard size allen so it has a slight taper and can be hammered into the stripped bolt. See if that in addition to some heat can get this out. If it doesn't work, I guess I'll have to drill it. I can get easy outs from work, but I think it will snap off before getting this thing out.

FUCK! Changing front brake pads one of the small alen bolt that hold the pads in stripped. It partially stripped, but the wrench still had good bite. So I used a torch to try and expand the ear on the housing the holds the bolt, but it fully stripped without budging. Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do. Thinking of drilling it out to relieve stress leaving just the threads, then trying to back it out using vice grips on the shaft that holds the pads in place. The bolt is recessed, so cutting a slot in it wont work. So pissed. It looks like whoever put this thing together put construction glue(caulk) as lock tite and on top of the heads bolts. That in addition to over torquing every fucking fastener on the bike.

Doubt I'll be racing, but I will be running two gopros friday evening and saturday in race school if you want some additional footage to chop up.

The hose is about as relaxed as it gets. Moving forward or back puts a little strain on the line, leads me to believe that the previous owner had the res in this position. I tried rotating the shock around so the fitting was on the other side, but nothing worked. I'll take another look and probably hack the plastic off to move it forward slightly.

I thought yours was pretty similar Jeff, remembered you were adjusting it at PIRC. The battery tray has a flap that comes down just forward of the res in the pictures. Can't move the shock in front of that flap because the line will not conform. I can cut the flap off and move the res further forward, but it wouldn't be as solid of a mount as using the battery tray and that flap as a V block to hold it in place.

Does this look OK for mounting the shock res? Wasn't really sure how close it would come to hitting the swingarm, but the photos were taken with the rear compressed 41mm measured over the axle nut. Plan on punching a couple holes through the battery tray and zip tying it in place. I have some silicone rubber sheet that I'll probably put on there as well to keep it from sliding at all.

Thanks for verifying, I snipped off the connectors off and taped the leads. Also and rerouted the wiring under the frame and routed the main harness up the left side of the bike like it is from the factory. Going to install some of the stuff that came in the mail and maybe take a look at the glass that need repaired on the fairings sets....then think about some rattlecan colors to throw on this thing.

So after a little inspection it looks like the wiring harness is in pretty good shape. Connections that were removed before, or I took out today include Front signals Headlights Left handlebar switch assembly, the male connector has a jumper installed for the clutch switch Speed sensor is not present, but the connector is still on the harness Rear brake switch is deleted Side stand switch is deleted and wires shorted(need to pull this apart and make sure it is soldered and not just twist and tape) The 5 pairs of disconnect crimp connectors pictured earlier are for the right handlebar switch. Two wires are for the front brake switch, which I believe should be OK to disconnect as well. That leaves 3 wires for the stop switch and starter button. There is supposed to be a connector in this spot, so I'm tempted to leave the disconnect crimp connectors on there and re-route the harness under the frame. It is either that or solder it and have to snip the wires if I ever need to get it apart. Now where it gets weird; there are two additional heavy gauge wires coming from the handlebar switch, one orange and red the other yellow and white. They were not connected to anything other than the right handlebar switch, just in the giant ball of tape. I've looked through the wire diagram and the only O/R I see is for the cooling fan and the Y/W is for a for the passing light switch....neither of which go to the right handle bar switch. I'm just going to leave the two wires as is and keep it in mind if I have any issues in the future.

The yellow is electrical tape. It worked out pretty nice since it is obvious. I just don't understand why they needed to use so much of it(almost all of it is already off in the pic). That damaged wire was literally zip tied, electrical taped, then duct taped...all over the damaged stock heavy wire sheathing. Oh, the shit all over the frame is residue from duct tape....I'll get it cleaned off eventually.

If you can find a program that can covert the mp4 file to something windows movie maker will take, that is a free option. I screwed around with it and didn't find anything that worked, so I went with a slightly different option described above....

I think it was $130 for normal registration and $155 for late last year? Did attendance drop from previous years last year? I know the last couple days were really light, but one was a Monday as well.

Couple updates, first RidersDiscount is the bomb! Planned on getting the bike mostly back together and some new goodies bolted on, but one of the valve cover bolt gaskets wanted to play hide and go seek, so that killed an hour. Turned out it was hidden away nicely inside the rear spring. Next up, this started off as "Hey, this part of the wiring harness is supposed to go under the frame. Wow this looks like it got a little pinched. Better strip back a the exterior sheath and make sure it is OK" Good thing... Then it turned into "Ok, looks like whoever put this thing together used yellow tape on everything they touched, guess its time to start tearing it off......SURPRISE!" This started life as a giant knot of tape about an inch to inch and quarter around. I'm debating about just leaving the butt connectors wrapped in tape; or tearing it apart, taking the harness under the frame like it should be and soldering it. I need to go through the wiring diagram and verify I'm not missing anything necessary(some yellow taped off connectors not in the pics). There are a couple wires butted together that do not match color code which concerns me. Not sure if I should take the step of deleting any unnecessary wiring at this point, almost frightened to hack up the harness any more....although this is nothing compared to what had to be done to my 01 after my wreck.

This the one? I'll have to check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzybqLPIPwE Wish my wifi was strong enough to listen/watch races while in the garage.

Yeah, I picked up the videopass; haven't had cable in years, so I don't feel bad about dropping a little cash on a literal ton of content. Some of the quality of the older races leaves a bit to be desired, watching the 04 opener right now and in helicopter shots the riders are completely indistinguishable, hell a lot of the shots you can only see blurs of color. On the other hand in 2005 hi-res video becomes available and in 2010 everything is HD. I'll have to check out the classics section and see what it has to offer, I've been picking and choosing by seasons.

Looking for a front wheel from a 00-05 gsxr 750 or 01-05 gsxr 600. Without rotors preferably. Also looking for an exhaust can from an 04,05 gsxr 600-750. Dont really care about cosmetics. May be interested in a full exhaust for the right price.

Good movie!

where did you get the bikes dyno'd at? I was planning on going to the dyno days, but I'll be in SC on that Saturday.

moto3 was a great final lap race. was red flagged at 12/18 and restarted for a 5 lap sprint. Can't wait for GP!

I've done it a lot on my gsxrs.

you need to post the full youtube link. The one above directs to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph0SjLC_lqk&feature=youtu.be if you delete the "&feature=youtu.be" from the end you are left with "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph0SjLC_lqk" and if you paste that without the "" marks you get: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph0SjLC_lqk

lol it is one post about a free cat that is over a year and some odd months old, and it gets resurrected out of the blue.....that doesn't make you think "wtf?"?

I have to go with my gut on this one.....what the fuck were you doing to bring up this thread?