Cordell

Well long story short I am no longer at Dave Gill effective immediately. I need to move my tools from there saturday. Does anyone have access to a flat trailer with a ramp I can push my 1000 pound toolbox on? I guess my options are always a u-haul truck or to call a rollback, just wanted to see if anybody could lend a hand or provide a cheaper option. I would be willing to pay I am not looking for a handout, just trying to be as frugal as possible while I adjust.

Well I don't care if you think my input matters or not. Lets say I prep my car how much money do you have to lose? I give no fucks, I'll blow my car up to win $20 JUST ASK AROUND.

I have seen Alex's Supra show up to many meets not on a trailer, hence its a fucking street car. My car was making over 600rwhp on spray a couple years ago and drug the Supra up the highway. It's a street car. I've run a couple C6s on the highway, and the only one to beat me was built like a boss and you can trust it was a money taking street car. Can we change imstock2's name to potatoe yet?

That is not going to be very accurate, I have one, but to measure a draw you need some accurate down to at least 5-7 milliamps. An amp meter connected in series between the negative battery terminal and lead is the best way to accuratly measure draw. Fubar-Since this might be a little over your head electrically, if you bring the car to my house and pay me I'll check it. It takes at least an hour just to get a good reading of draw, let alone hunting it down as that can take some time. I'm not doing it for free, and I doubt anyone would invest enough time to do it properly for free. If I were you I'd buy a battery tender and disconnect the remote start shit on the car.

I vote a saturday night, with a poll for movies, starting with the highest scoring movie and going from there.

What is with the sig? You think I can't shift? Wanna race a Miata? around a road course? Do ya there driving god?

Just call me I should be around.

Cool call me and you can come check out the new house too.

My Dad has that same body style 68 Mustang, good thing its faster then the Vette.:gabe:

Like stated above check the cabling, ground and power. See what kind of voltage drop you have going to the starter. Just because the starter is new doesn't mean its good. You're not running some heavy oil in this old truck are you? The way to check the ignition switch and relay is to see if you get power on the signal wire at the starter, since this doesn't really carry any load thats all it needs to have. If it has a poor connection somewhere maybe its intermitant, but if you key it up and theres 12 volts on that wire that circuit should be fine.

He wants to win duh. :dumb:

Coolers are universal, and as stated not hard to hook up. I beleive the one still in the box is bigger and should work but to be honest I didn't use it for a reason. Mainly that going out and beating on my car roll racing and such on the street I wanted as much cooling as I could get. I have a decent sized B&M supercooler on my car. Not saying this won't work, but its just a basic cooler.

Pretty sure its a class 3, it's the hitch you'd get for half ton Silverado from GM since it's a GM hitch. LMK on the pipe.

Any interest?

Well I accepted the job, and put my two weeks notice in at Dave Gill. What I was expecting did not happen. I figured like the last few peple to quit I would get told that they would not like for me to continue working and that I was done. Thats not all that uncommon for most automotive shops. However I was pulled into the Gill's office and had an hour discussion about how they want to keep me, and how valued I am, and why didn't I come discuss my issues first, yadda yadda yadda. My day did not go anything like I thought, they want a couple days to come up with a plan to provide me more work and opportunity. I am still in shock. So now I'm not sure, if they really do make a good attempt to keep me I think I'll stay. Feels good being wanted by an employer (and a few places at that), but sucks that things are up in the air. What a day.

Sold, thanks Dan for getting this thing out of my way.

Damn I forgot I have to work this saturday, FML.

Tires are 235-75-15 and they are brand new Generals.

Yeah but this saves me from dealing with it.

Some of you may recall that I was going to sell this until I realized the engine was knocking. Someone get it out of my driveway I'm sick of looking at it. $300OBO http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108757 http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/for%20sale/CIMG0332.jpg

bump

bump, still have these.

Okay well seeing as how those had very similar engine management as the Vette they worked better, we're talking about something a little different for the Olds. GM has always put their best stuff in the Vettes and the f-body was always the next thing to get it. Besides I'm just sharing my experience with the older stuff, its not like I've had to work on very many OBD1 GMs. I was getting stuck with every one of them that came in the shop and I bet I didn't see 1 a month.

It's very likely he doesn't have any, most codes in an OBD1 GM clear pretty quickly if they even set in the first place. Not staying running almost certainly would not have codes. It's just how primitive GM's shit was at the time.

Honestly there's a good chance it would, just need to ask someone if there is any input shaft difference between a 4L60 and 4L70.