Cordell

Congrats. I've driven and worked on a lot of these and they are great cars. As for SFCs, I don't think it makes a big difference which ones you go with so long as there is something on there. I like the boxed weld-in style connectors that I bought for a couple reasons, if at some point I wanted to weld in a cross bar for an aftermarket torque arm mount I can, they weld in so they can't loosen over time like a bolt-in, and they simply work. There are many of us on here that are happy to answer any questions you may have, welcome to the club.

If you like the car, but if you plan on racing it the thing is heavy and will not be nearly as fast as a 4th gen with the same power.

I should also state that it was set-up for nitrous and went 10.60 on a 150 shot, which is what I built the motor for in the first place. Once I got up to a 250 shot the car started getting scary, and i could never get a clean pass.

Well my Z28 will run 11.90 on a 10 inch drag radial the way it sits now, engine is an LQ4 with Scat rods, Mahle pistons, junk 853 heads (ends up at 10.2:1 compression), TSP 233/239 cam, made 390rwhp through a 4L60 and 9" 3.75 gears, went a best of 11.60 at 117mph really leaning on it with a 4200 stall, 11.5" radials and a 1.53 60'. I've been happy with the way the car drives, recently put a tighter 3000 stall in it which is a little small to be doing as well at the drag strip, but I'm not really interested in that anymore. Let me know if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to try an answer them as it sounds like you're going down a similar road.

This is incorrect, 241 heads are not the same port shape as a 317. 243 and 317 have the same port shape, not to be confused with the fact that the heads are all interchangeable. This is pretty accurate, but since you said crank hp of 500 and these guys seem to be thinking more along the lines of wheel let me put in my $.02. Cam choice, compression, intake, and exhaust are going to have a big impact on final numbers. If you are going to be drag racing and are looking for top end numbers you should be able to hit your goals with a little work to the 317s and an aggressive cam. In my opinion if you're going to do a lot of driving in the car I'd ditch the aggressive cam and settle on less top end, but thats just me. I'd spend the money on a set of rods and pistons which would allow more power down the road and really get compression up with out milling a lot off the heads.

By the time he ever reads this, Happy Belated Birthday. So come back fucker.

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61288 Go back and read, this intro will not get you on the site.

Dude they hardly ever pick up on a bad O2 unless it's part of the heater. Should've picked up a lean/rich code though.

Stuck working saturday, FML.

The first and second gen Miatas are both 4x100, but my Mazdaspeed has bigger brakes that some 15s won't fit over. Currently running 205-50-15, will likely pick up some 195-55-15 winter tires for my other wheels later this year.

There were zero issues with the winter tires, I wish they would fit on my new Miata.

I guess that beats the $50-$90 for a new one. I've soldered the battery clip back on a few.

If 4 channel it would have traction control (ABS sensors at each wheel), if 3 channel it would have ABS without traction control (one ABS sensor on top of the diff). How about the driver's side knee panel (big piece of trim under the column) are you using that off the 02? How faded are the headlights? I need the driver's side if its in good shape.

This. Caliper would be a good bet, but it could be a hose, frozen slides, or pads that didn't move freely.

I feel that at 100k miles you can pretty much judge how well its been taken care of, after that it just depends. I have no desire to buy something over 150k, unless its something special.

Saw this on the news this morning,

:fa: :lolguy: :shrugs:

More then you can afford pal............... Ferrari http://i65.servimg.com/u/f65/13/75/81/94/more_t10.jpg

Why? I could keep banning him for free. How about I give you a totally non-gay man hug? Would you delete him?

Maybe if you go by the "quick lube" with retards standing by the road with signs because nobody wants to go there. My point is that while there are some things at dealerships that suck price wise, there is plenty that is the same or cheaper. Besides if you really want your car inspected you can ask for a technician to look at it at the dealership, not some $8hr punk who either doesn't care or looks at the couple things he gets pushed to look at, ie air filters and serp belts.

Bullshit, my dealership is cheaper on the oil change an it comes with some free flat repairs. Rotations are cheaper, but dealership air filters are about the same. and while we're on the topic, I bet money that our prices for brakes are cheaper then places claiming to be "brake specialists". I do a dozen $139 brake jobs a week, 1axle, pads, and machine rotors. I used to manage a Monro, and we are by far cheaper.

Keep in mind that not all LS1 injectors are the same flow rating, they are in fact different from different years. I don't recall now what years were what but don't just get any old LS1 injector and throw it on there.

The Odyssey I can see, but you've just had damn good luck with the Bravada.

Fuck that, I wouldn't consider it unless it had either half the miles or half the price. I've seen some high mileage ones in decent shape, but they are far from mint when you look harder.

Depends on vehicle and engine combination. I would do some in depth checks if I was considering buying something like that, compression, pull a valve cover (if easy enough), stuff like that to try and get a better idea then just looking. although $12k is alot for anything over 200k miles.