Cordell

Keep in mind also that if you put an older transmission in your car it won't shift right without going manual valve body or a lot of work, and I'm not how you'd make an old 350 or 400 shift with a boosted engine without a manual valve body. I really don't see how putting one of these together would save you much of anything.

I couldn't agree more when it comes to fast and reliable costs a pretty penny, but take you're time and spend the money. I'm so glad I can still go cruise my car. Besides you don't have a truck and trailer, and if you only get to drive it at the track it won't be any good to you anywhere else. If it's what you want to do more power to you, and you know I'll even help you out if you want.

A kid I used to work with had the box Harbor Freight sells, and it really wasn't bad for the price. I'd wait until your tool guy comes in with something used, and let him know that you're looking they move that stuff pretty quick.

Get the drivetrain up to par, a quality transmission, I like a nice built 4l60e there's no reason it can't be somewhat streetable. Next up is a rearend and driveshaft, 12 bolt or 9", I'd suggest the 9" with a spool. Pick up a quality driveshaft, precision shaft is great with the 1350 u-joints. Quality set of shocks and springs, QA1s or Afcos, and a Madman torque arm. Get a nice set of drag wheels and tires with a good 10.5" radial. Now for the fun part, there's 2 ways I'd go to make power both will cost about the same give or take. Start with building a fuel system, make it a return system, do a pair of 255 Walbros, and then decide on either nitrous or turbo. If nitrous buy a high end set of heads and an aggressive camshaft suitable for spray, supporting mods for head and cam swap, and then buy a complete nitrous set-up and since bracket racing is the goal a nitrogen assist system to regulate the nitrous system for super consistancy. If turbo, buy the biggest set of injectors, a nice hot side set up, quality 76mm turbo, and all other turbo parts. Get a ported set of 6.0L heads and a good turbo grind cam, and LS6 intake. This could obviously be done a few different ways, but I'd like to drive it on the street and going to a turbo 350 or 400 you'd loose the lock-up converter and overdrive. A spool isn't bad if you don't try to go parrallel parking. Over all just throw $15k+ at it, and it'll run low 10s all day every day.

Cool, ACR Viper, I'd rock the shit outta that.

I'll be there in the morning, there should be a few anyway.

Where's this list?

So long as we get a race in, I'll leave you alone.

Sure its the fastest stock bottom end tin can, striped down race car. So what? How many other companies have tried to accomplish that? Not many, and the cam is a custom grind not an MS4, read the fine print, and the heads are a completely worked over set of their casting which you can't buy that way. So like i said go ahead and jump on that bandwagon. Their off the self parts are no better then anyone else's.

really? join that bandwagon why don't you.

Obviously not, I'm not a VAGina

There are 2 choices for ignition on a carb'd LS motor with no PCM, MSD makes a controler box to fire the coils. Someone else may make a similar box by now, but MSD has them for 24 tooth crank trigger and 58 tooth crank trigger. The other option is the GM parts front cover which adds a distributor drive to the front of the camshaft, uses a SBF dizzy iirc.

What on your bike? lol, if you want idk

What do you want? parts compatability? go check out LS1tech, part prices? try any of the above Speed Inc, WS6 store, whatever. Not sure what you're trying to find. LS1tech has all their sponsors listed down the right side which pretty much covers everything.

I'm going to C&C in the morning and working on Miata brakes tomarow. I will most likely be out tomarow night, but tonight looks lame.

you crack me up with your lame hustle, your car has a turbo, that makes a much bigger difference power wise then .8L

JB beat the guys who weren't on CR. and yeah those guys, lol

Despite Phil's post, I really only want to run for fun. Thats why going to Marion wasn't much fun for me, everyone wants to bet. This is also why I don't go looking for the "big boys", because when it gets serious and money is involved it stops being fun for me.

Cool, I'll be at the track day 10-7, I'll have the car out after that, I'm always down whenever the car leaves the garage.

Getting to the other end of the track first is a win, don't be mad. I don't think I'm the shit, Tina seems to be enjoying all this shit talking, I'm just taking part.

Cool, hope your car is ready, should be fun.

I've already beaten that car, bring it out, I'll beat it again. You let me know when you wanna race either one. Keyword here.

As for value I will say that the few we've had at the dealer were nice cars, and we always price high, and they didn't last long. The demand is out there.

I've seen my car pull past 150, so I think I'd be gear limited to around 170+, it's hard to figure out with a loose converter in the mix. Not sure if I'd get that high in a mile or not, things take a lot more space to keep winding it out. You seem to be pretty involved in this stuff, what are the cars that show up like?

Okay let me get this right it's either the Miata, my Camaro on motor giving you a big hit, or wait 2 years until your hopes and dreams come around. Why do you even post in my racing thread? Breaking is part of going faster, I like finding out what the weak link is in my car. You're going to see the Camaro broken or blown up by the end of next year, watch.