Cordell

Well damn why don't you just tell me what race you want and I'll just say you won.

You can have the hit. It would look cooler if I go blowing past at half track anyway. :lolguy:

Hey look last day of summer, you fucking internet troll. old thread, yes I'm bored.

I thought they had 245s on them, not sure. We don't get many in at work, but what I've seen is worn front control arms which get done as a set, so it isn't cheap to replace that stuff, G8s are the same way. A lot of the parts for GTOs and G8s don't fit anything else in America so getting vehicle specific stuff can be difficult. Another tech at work recently went through 3 used GTO dashes trying to fix everything that got fucked up when the car's stereo was stolen, new parts just weren't available. Other then that type stuff if they are in good shape it isn't that hard to keep them that way.

This with an MS3 or 4, had better be 500 wheel, but the magic stick cams were designed for LS1s with cathedral heads. There would be better stuff out there for this combo.

All LS motors are compatable with each other mostly. Depending on the crankshaft's reluctor ring (24 or 58 tooth) will dictate which PCM it'll take to control it. Earlier stuff is 24 and around 2005 things switched to 58. There are some other little differences, knock sensor location, cam sensor location, but all can be set up to work. Of course if you put a carb on it none of this matters. Physically the biggest difference between blocks is bore size and to run the rectangle port heads (L92, LS3, L76, ect) you need a 4" or bigger bore. You run into differences in valvetrain and intakes if you use the newer style heads. The older cathedral style heads (LS1, LS2, LS6, LQ9, LQ4, most 5.3, ect) work well and are easier to get, but there are benefits either way. Depending on power goals and budget there are many ways to go. 5.3s can be had in the junkyards cheap, from pan to intake for around $500, the LS1 style computer which was used in all the trucks, Vettes, f-bodies is cheap as hell and is still a really good tuning platform, needs to be 24 tooth reluctor and a 1x cam signal. Spend a little more money and go 6.0L with an LQ4 or LQ9, these blocks are identical, the only difference is the LQ9 uses higher compression pistons, so if you're going to rebuild don't waste the extra money on the LQ9. It costs more because its rare, they only put it in a few trucks mostly Escalades. With the LQ motors you can run the newer style heads if you want, but if you get a complete motor the 6.0L heads are really good for stock heads, they share the same ports as an LS6 head with bigger chambers. Point is there are tons of good options, and you are only limited by your budget. I personally think that the best bang for the buck is a 5.3 complete, swap an LS1 intake and stuff on, and spray the guts out of it. This in a lightweight car would go 10s, would easily go 11s in a Camaro. The way I went was a LQ4 with forged rods and pistons, LS1 heads, cam and bolt-ons, I've got around $4500 in the engine with machine work, gaskets, and everything. I wouldn't bat an eye to push over 700 wheel with mine. If I put "good" heads on it, it should pick up a lot more, but I'm cheap. You could take a cheap 5.3, overbore it to LS1 specs, and pick up lots of used parts cheap, and spray the house down. Honestly iron block are whats going to be affordable, everyone wants too much for anything aluminum, and iron is only about 100 pounds heavier.

You're more fun to pick on, and BC already knows its on for us.

scared of what? Just trying to get the truth out of Jones. You don't want none either.

and "as of the track day"?

because....well......I'm bored and you don't race anyway, I'll still be surprised if you make it to the track day. so it has a factory calibration in it too?

What other then the fact that it isn't bone stock? I've seen your car.

I try not to act like a conspiracy theorist, but the only way to sell the type shit that will allow big brother to track you and be able to see what you're doing has to marketed as a benefit to the end consumer. This is exactly why I don't have OnStar, that Progressive "driving habit" tracker, LoJack, a smart phone, because this type shit has too many hidden possibilities. Most things are pushed on society so hard you can hardly do without it, this is how socialism takes over and things get worse before they will ever be good again. Sorry started to rant.

I used to think this way, but I saw something recently that changed my mind and I have a friend who is still alive. No I'm not going to elaborate, but a cage will find its way into my car soon.

This has been discussed, NO!

You're right, you posted :gtfo:

Anyone know where there is a rule book posted for tech? or some basic guidelines? Is it similar to drag racing style tech? I'd really like to do this, but would like to know how feasable it is for me.

I'm going to start with the obvious, don't touch the bulb, seriously maybe you knew that already but I get people at work all the time who claim they changed their headlights and they keep burning out. I get the work order to figure out why, pull bulb and hey look a fingerprint. Otherwise start by checking out the connector, and any signs of burn marks in the socket and wiring. Pretty much what Craig said above.

I could do 130 in my truck with in a mile, and yes I have done it and removed the limiter. My Camaro should be over 160 with the potential to be much faster. How's this supposed to get people to come out when anyone with a quick street car can break those rules?

VAG

You know I'll just race for the fun of it. I'm just being that way for the sake of internet dramas. Back to talking shit.

You has monies for motor run?

In for what? Missing shifts? or running 14s?

I can run you on motor, but no rollbar means no spray passes for me.

I can run 13s, I can run 12s, what do you wanna do?

OP and his brother being annoying postwhores.