Cordell

says the guy who wouldn't go to either :dumb:

Don't forget

Looks like a great job from the pics, amazing what a few bucks and some elbow grease will get you. Good work.

Had a few drinks this evening? You must not have proof read any of that. Try searching CycleTrader, Ebay to see what some of these are selling for. Doesn't Ebay have a sold area so you can get an idea?

Might even bring the family this time, I know some of you are like "oh I don't know.....its kind of far" fuck that it is not, its just far enough for a good drive.

Hocking Hills? Wrong way.

Edit: I'm not going, no interest and too late of a notice, fuck it. Last year a few of us took a drive up to Bellefontaine for some Rax, well I'm tired of the same old bullshit choices around here and I'm thinking Rax. Anyone interested in taking a nice cruise up and back and enjoying some roast beef? Meeting at the Tuttle Crossing Best Buy at the street side of the lot, I'll get there at about 6:30 so we can be headed toward Rax by 7.

Have you tried Sunbelt Rentals? They seem to have everything else.

I like Summitt, I haven't had any bad experiences there, they always just give me what I want. Jeg's on teh other hand has argued with me instead of just selling me what I ask for. I only go to Jeg's for nitrous refills and tires because shipping drag radials costs extra. Jeg's can kiss my ass.

Dangerous? I doubt it, as long as it has fluid in it the regular brakes will work. I work at a dealer so I have access, but thats not going to help you unless you want to pay.

Gonna have to get it scanned and see what codes it has, like AJ said you just need a scanner good enough to read ABS.

Last week wasn't bad even with the game, I'd just suggest getting there early. I'll be going to Dyno Brian's directly since he is having a dyno day. Should make for a nice saturday.

I love going in that store, I've only made the trip a couple times, but part of me just likes being old school and physically buying something.

Just order the Ranchos already.

Your friends should have told you about the site.

He has a Mobile dyno so it sits up pretty high, if your car would have a hard time getting on a drive on lift it may not go up the dyno very easy. You can always come by and check it out.

As I stated earlier the non-projected tip plugs just add to the safety factor, personally I'd never run a TR series of plug because I blame them as having a part in melting down my original engine but regardless of personal opinion non-projected tip plugs are much safer in a nitrous application. When you use a NPT plug the ground strap is much shorter and much less likely to get hotter and melt. You guys want to run TR6s go ahead, I wish you the best of luck, but when you start pushing your set-ups its a weak link.

I find your issue interesting, and have been doing some searching even though I can't see Alldata at home anymore. While I've found many people's accounts of Hyandai's piss poor lock cylinders, I did find this about an Entourage I found interesting. If they've already replaced the ignition switch, it sounds like Hyandai does some stupid shit with their shift interlock so I'd be willing to bet on a loose connection or junk shifter mechanisim. If it does it again for you beat on the fuse box, seriously. Also seeing stuff about shifter buttons, so at least when it does it you can play with those two things and see if it makes a difference.

Kind of surprising that you still use a TR6, going the non-projected plug route offers an increased margin of safety. For those that don't know, the "TR" series of NGK plugs have a projected tip, and the "BR" series of NGK plugs are non-projected tip. The non-projected tips are much less likely to burn a ground strap and tend to be much more controlled in a nitrous application. When I ran TR6s not only did they play a roll in the detonation that killed my original engine, but they would round off the ground strap from getting too hot.

If you set up the resistor mod correctly, final ignition timing will show up accuratly on a scan tool or logging software.

Thanks Brian, but you're the best Zesty Sauce Chef in this town

Start by reading all this http://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-oxide/1242567-spark-plug-info-jetting-faqs-all-nitrous-info-read-me.html then do a search on non-projected tip plugs when you understand why you should have all the accesories and why I run NGK BR7ef plugs then you'll get a pretty good understanding of what is going on. 200 shot starts getting into advanced teritory, thats when you need to understand safe tunes, proper distribution, and fueling in great detail. Know your limits and don't get to them, understand that while addicting, the more you spray the more things need to be done in order to keep it safe. I could spray more but I'm at my personal limits of nitrous distribution through the intake, and fueling. I love to talk about this stuff so feel free to ask away.

I would gladly help you with this project.

Dealerships have different reasons for different repairs. Common issues I just fix regardless if it acts up or not, but when I'm not pretty sure of what something is and it's not common I won't just hang parts on a car. Unfortunatly I have to send quite a few complaints out the door as "can not duplicate", I can understand being frustrated, but unless you want to leave your car with the dealer for extended periods of time to likely be told the same thing there isn't much to do. I'm not going to say the following as an excuse for the technician but, as a technician that gets paid flat rate and seeing as how GM will not pay me very much to diag a car especially if I can not find a part to replace I refuse to spend much time on things like this, in most cases after a half an hour I'm no longer getting paid anything and your car isn't acting up. Best thing to do as a customer is keep bitching, keep bringing it back, and start calling customer service. The noisey wheel will get the grease, because at this point the service manager will get involved and he will spend time with the car until it acts up.

Pulling 3 degrees isn't going to have much effect on N/A performance, but I'd set up an IAT resistor on a relay so it only pulls timing while spraying. If you have a 255lph pump you should be fine depending on what the motor makes power wise, those pumps will typically support 550-600 wheel. As long as its tuned properly your car should take much more then that, so 75 would be fine. It kind of depends on how agressive the car is tuned timing wise to know how much would be good to pull, but I'd start around 3-4 degrees as you should have a pretty good tuning window on that small of a shot. Any questions you may have regarding this there are good resourses on LS1tech, and a few members here including myself are experienced in this topic. Just kind of depends on what you want to get out of a nitrous set-up, 75 isn't going to feel like much on a H/C car. Personally I'd set up at least 125 but thats just me, if you're anything like me 75 won't last long.