Cordell

Don't you hate it when your dreaming about a pudding snack only to wake up with a spoon in your ass.

You sure can't catch my post count, I'll be ready to try and break more parts this weekend.

About $8.50 give or take, I doubt it would be worth it for you. I needed a job and they already moved me up, so.......

My car isn't fixed yet, besides I don't really want to pay to look at your taillights. I'll do some dig racing with you anyway, I don't care. I might just have something for ya bruh.

This thread is just full of fail, and I'm not even talking about Paul and Josh.

Somebody with a little experience to help me teach Mark would be great. I find it ironic that Mark is posting this.

This is a pretty common issue with the keys in the dash.

and Happy Birthday to you, cleaning up after me. I don't know what happened, I guess I was just got full.

Go put in an app at Dave Gill, we need another part time lube tech. It pays a little better then $7.55.

This only partially acurate, because it has everything to do with how much you're spraying. My target A/F is at 11.2 when spraying for a little safety factor. Let's just say you're target A/F is 12.8 when n/a and your car make 400hp and you spray 100hp shot, use the following equation. [(400/500)x(12.8)]+[(100/500)x(7)]=11.64 new target A/F Simple HP numbers and how they coordinate with the target A/F for air and nitrous. This is accurate, and I'd also do what Gearhead talks about and learn to read the plugs. This is a science in it's self. Also keep in mind that the cylinders will not all get even distribution on an LS1 without a directport, so make sure the safety factor is there. I personally like to add fuel to the injectors as well on a wet shot by about 10% to make sure there is at least a good distribution of fuel. Beleive me I've learned the hard way and have done my research.

I'll take the wheels Gary. I'll pay for them unless I've got something laying around that you could use.

Now see if they'd just bring back Opie and Anthony (yes I know it was another station), I'd listen to talk radio. Bob and Tom is lame. Since that won't happen I vote music.

You've been saying this since I met you, I'll beleive it when I see it. and if you paint it white, it'll just break stuff instead of running slow.

Been hanging on to those for quite some time, no plans on parting with my teenage toys.

Paint your car white, that'll fix it. Seriously though most of that was prabably the track prep, but I'd go over the car very carefully anyway.

I'm just lucky it happened on the dyno, I'd hate to have done that on the street. Take the torque arm off, especially if you're using a "hit" of nitrous or a big stall that hits hard.

This, and make sure it's on compression.

New snow plow? Not bad, have to see.

Cool, dibs.

Money on that old orange Chevy

reshaping SBC headers would be a lot of work, LS1s have 4 evenly spaced round ports, older SBCs have unevenly spaced rectangle ports. Might as well start from scratch, or just start with some crappy LS1 headers and work on them.

This fucking thing never moves under it's own power for more then a month. http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/broken/CIMG0131.jpg

My collection of parts just keeps growing. http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/broken/CIMG0138.jpg

and here's the rest of it. http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/broken/CIMG0136.jpg

Well this is why you should remove the torque arm from the transmission. http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/broken/CIMG0133.jpg