Cordell

We are here, both of us get here at 7:30 M-F. May not get to talk a lot since we are supposed to be working.

He works in the bay next to me if you ever feel like stopping at Lash.

Thought CTD was closed? or is that just a rumor?

He already has the access port, and thought someone more familiar with it then me could tune it. Wasn't sure if there was anybody around familiar with Subarus. If you want to start a project thread talking about the whole car you can put it in "project management" but just for questions like this I moved it where it goes.

That preview looks funny, will watch.

Thanks for telling us Clay, I would've been super disappointed. Anyone else want to tell us that they can't come out?

I don't disagree with your logic, here at Lash we typically just charge an hour. If you want to come up here I'm sure we can discount the labor and figure it out for less then $75.

Weather looking very promising, I'll be out with a few friends.

I'd get the LS3 that started in 08 for that price. Watch out for leaking diffs, worn clutches because they are not cheap to change. Overall most of these cars lead very pampered lives so most of them are in good shape. Drive a few of them, because if it's been raced or abused it will start to creak squeak, it is a plastic car after all.

A tech 2 obviously, a Solus, a Genesis, or anything better then that, most scan tools that have bidirectional abilities jump up over $2k pretty fast. I'm sure there are cheaper off brand stuff out there but I'm not really familiar.

No I doubt a parts store can look at much other then codes. Just because the wire looks fine doesn't mean it isn't coming apart inside the connector, that's what I'm talking about. The only sure way to check the electrical is to plug a noid light into the circuit so you require the circuits power and ground, and command it on and off with an appropriate scan tool. This is not easy for most people to do, I understand that, but EVAP is hard to diag without being able to control it.

Can you look at the parameter for the fuel tank pressure sensor on a scan tool? It should read 0 when the engine isn't running. Have you looked at the gas cap? Seems I recall replacing a few of the vent solenoid electirical connectors on that year range Equinox be ause the terminals fray and come apart.

Plastidip has to be put on pretty thick to be peeled. Most people don't get it thick enough, if it's been on a while after being applied too thin it's a bitch to get off. Short of chemicals a decent pressure washer will work well.

I'm sure an electrician would do it. When I worked as an electrician many years ago we did similar stuff all the time, because mounting something and running wire to it is really what electricians do.

I was there a few weeks ago, and after talking to the guy who maintains the karts I knocked a couple seconds off my time. Here's why: the karts are controlled by a pretty smart ECU and turned down, they realize there is wheelspin and pull power, they realize that when you're heavy and aren't going as fast and add power. They really reward proper driving skill, and are set-up to stay equal. I will definitely be going back.

Nope. Unless you are like OE level hacker, I've been asked that before. It picks up the reverse signal off the data buss and turns it on, you can't even trick it into thinking it's in reverse.

You don't keep a job long enough to compare longevity of tools. Besides you're at Carmax and you use their tools right? I personally would go to an auto parts store like NAPA and ask to see their tool catalog, they typically can get more then one thing, and it's what you'd have in most shops. Harbor Freight is the radio shack of tools it may work forever or not at all, I am not a big fan unless it's rarely used without moving parts.

Being a decent tech and a decent novice tuner, I feel I would be able to look at things in great detail, and putting it on a dyno to check condition would be a condition of sale. Yes I would buy a modded car if done correctly, and in good condition. Would I suggest it to most people, I doubt it. That being said I know there are some cars you know pretty well. I guess it comes down to your comfort zone, but it may be a good idea to involve a neutral party or at least a tuner if it's been modded in that way.

Sounds like the fans running all the damn time wore them out, I've seen it happen before. You likely need new fans and then to figure out why they run all the damn time. A scan tool that will show you what the ECM is seeing for the coolant temp, or any possible DTCs keeping the fans on.

To say the key is related to the ignition failure is not really true. GM came up with 84 recalls in 2014, many of which were similar, that is how many different cases are listed with the National Highway whatever group. They redesigned the ignition key for many of their models, in most cases this was simply a different hole in the head of the key rather then a slot so some dumbass can't hang 10 pounds of keys off it and cause it to turn. On Camaros it did away with your flip keys, pissing off more then a few customers. On most Impalas and other with the cylinder in the dash we glued inserts into the key. I wouldn't bother making a trip to the dealer so they can glue or screw with your ignition key when it isn't broken. I am not talking about the ignition switch itself, a lot of those were actually broken and easily switched off, but this was only on Cobalts, Ions, HHRs, Soltices, Skys, and G5s.

In for the free bike.

Nick you'll just regret this, keep it. I wish you bad luck with sale, BLWS.

This evening looks good, so I'll be out.

I don't like to pay for something every month that isn't fun, that being said I only have a small loan on my Corvette. I like having a cheap paid for beater that can get a little beat up without me loosing my mind over it. I think in the future leasing a car for a couple years so I can have something nice is worth it, and here's why. Cars that get driven every day in Ohio go downhill too fast for me because by the time they are paid for they are starting to rust, and with otherwise higher mileage aren't worth sinking money into them to keep the drivetrain fresh and just leads them straight to the junkyard. Unfortunatly that's just what the auto manufacturers and government want, but what are you to do. Okay I'm done with my ramble of incoherent nonsense.

He may not see this anytime soon, but feel free to PM him as it will go right into his work e-mail and he does check it. He's not a big car guy himself, so no projects and such from this one. Tom, I think you'll like dealing with Ryan as much or more then Joe.