Cordell

Make sure it turns over by hand, ie put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and make sure it spins reasonably free, then go back over what you listed up top because you missed something.

Unlike most forms of racing, putting money into mods in autocrossing will not have a huge impact. Like said above most of it is simply how well you can control your car. Sticky tires are the biggest difference maker. I had my MazdaSpeed Miata for 3 years and never changed anything but tires, granted it's a well suited car for autocross but most of the changes I wanted to do went away the first time I raced it. It was too well balanced from the factory that I thought changing just one or two things would screw it up. Kind of why I got rid of it, I would've had to overhaul the whole thing to make it a lot better, and then I would've ruined what street manners it did have. Now my Corvette is getting a complete Z06 suspension put on it before I autocross it for the first time and I'll adjust from there. It isn't what most people or I would recommend but I'm fairly familiar with both of the factory setups and the Z06 is what I wanted. This Vette was $10k cheaper then any decent Z06 anyway. Besides it's not like I'm new at autocrossing, and my personal goals involve getting good at driving a fast car, not really what I was doing with the Miata.

I think you'll be just fine.

I would only have 2 cars on that list, but I don't make it a habit of driving into shit either.

Sounds like you're in a position to do whatever makes you happy regardless of what it pays, you're the only one who can figure out what that is. I don't make a lot of money but I like what I do and I have some very rewarding days. Maybe its just someone poor justifying their choices, but I am happy.

No thanks, but I'll take a Kirk's camshaft.

Hopefully I can pay off some of these new car parts, and put some back into my savings.

I would consider the high pressure fuel pump the first drawback to making power, the rods are the weak link.

I remember that place. Also drive around sometimes thinking about the way things looked when I was younger. I tend to annoy my friends and family by rambling on about shit that I remember from being a kid. I tend to do this a lot with my daughter.

Going to agree with this, though I'm not sure I'd call the first one a carbide bit, but looks to be for grinding.

No shit. That was my point.

So how is that supposed to work? Unless you're paying for that you'd have to complain to the idiot that fucked it up.

I would certainly check for vacuum leaks, but it sounds like you need header gaskets. Exhaust leak before the O2 would do exactly that on one side.

:thumbup:

It's now in the kitchen, so will this go anywhere? Or was it just a bad joke?

Not sure if serious :ninja:

I am a fan of real Mazdas, ie something Ford didn't have a hand in building. That said the Speed3 would be a fun car, but I wouldn't mod one, it will blow up. So if you want to tinker get the Vag.

yeah if that white plastic spark delivery piece of shit isn't nice clean and white replace it. That part is what I was refering to with carbon tracking.

Did you have really weak spark on that cylinder? I'd bet you do, it really needs checked with a spark tester that'll jump a gap to see how strong it is, because one that simply lights up won't help much. If there is no carbon tracking anywhere, you should be able to take the plastic bullshit apart and swap coils, see if it moves then. Testing the ignition on one of those is a PITA, but a coil sounds like a possiblity the way you described it.

We have some boating fans here, but you may want to fix your picture. Welcome.

Well its back up for sale, PM OP for details, I'm sure he'll update it.

You can buy the pair for $50 (I have no use for just one), and yes it comes apart pretty easy. Take the brakes off of that side, pop the cover, take the small bolt out holding the pin, remove pin, push axle in to reveal and remove c-clip (helps to remove the ABS sensor for clearance), then remove axle.

Do you need an axle shaft? I have a couple in my garage both 3 and 4 channel I'll sell to you cheap. I beleive they are different via a machined surface to press on the reluctor ring for 4 channel, to the best of my knowlege the aftermarket axles don't actually come with reluctor rings either way you go. Why don't you just get a stock replacement? Pretty sure Dorman makes them, and that they are the same length on both sides.

If there is any pitting or porus spots where you can't polish it to like new you might as well consider them ruined. If you want a final say take it to a machine shop and ask if its any good.

I work with my hands everyday, do you guys seriously have issues like this? Serious question. I worked construction before I worked on cars and never had an issue either. Maybe I'm just lucky.